Tucked below Mainland Australia is the island state of Tasmania (fondly referred to as “Tassie”), roughly the size of West Virginia. Tasmania is Australia’s coldest state because of its closer proximity to the Polar Zone. 

For those worried about Australia’s heat, I can’t promise Tasmania is always freezer-chill. But even in summer, I’d pack a light jacket. Cooled by the westerly winds off the Southern Ocean, the moderate maritime climate is perfect for grape growing, and that’s just one of the reasons Tasmania a great place to take a wine tour. 

Fun Fact: Tasmania represents the future of Australian winemaking. Mindful of rising temperatures in traditional wine regions such as the Barossa, Mainland wineries are opening vineyards in Tasmania.

1. Tasmania’s Answer To Champagne 

The Pipers River Region is Tasmania’s answer to Champagne. In the 1980s, winemakers from iconic champagne house Louis Roederer scoured the globe looking for the best place to make sparkling wine and chose Tasmania’s Tamar Valley. 

Drum roll, please! Tasmania won best sparkling of the year in 2020 against French competitors, and Wine Enthusiast ranks Tasmania as one of the 10 Best Wine Travel Destinations, making this the place for people who love bubbly.

2. More Than 30 Vineyards To Choose From

Hobart, Tasmania’s capital, is edged by wineries. Some are near the airport, where tourists can rent vehicles, including RVs, to lap Tassie. The Coal River Valley, with its 33 vineyards, is only 25 minutes outside Hobart.

Another concentration of wineries is in the Tamar Valley near Launceston. The drive between Hobart and Launceston takes 3 hours. 

Pro Tip: Hobart and Launceston both have major airports. Helicopters service several wineries. A car ferry, The Spirit of Tasmania, departs Geelong (near Melbourne, Victoria) and crosses Bass Strait to Tasmania.

3. Gorgeous Scenery

Tasmania is reminiscent of England, with patchworks of green fields, deciduous trees, teahouses, and Georgian-style manors. Drive down country lanes. Winemakers’ dogs mosey out to greet you, and lines of green vines crisscross the view of blue hills. Tasmania’s slogan is “Come Down for Air,” and you’ll appreciate why during your wine tour.

4. Nearby Tourist Attractions 

Coal Valley Wineries are close to the much-photographed colonial village of Richmond. Moorilla Estate is next to MONA — a famous avant-garde museum. Combine a trip to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Port Arthur Historic site with a stop at Bream Creek Vineyard. I particularly enjoyed viticulturist Fred Peacock’s award-winning 2018 Late Picked (Dessert) Schönburger.

Pro Tip: Bream Creek’s new cellar door is due for completion in mid-2023. Till then, tastings and sales are at The Dunalley Waterfront Cafe and Gallery, halfway between Hobart and Port Arthur. 

5. Not-To-Miss Food Pairings

A visit to Tasmania is a balancing act: a wine glass in one hand and nibbles in the other. Wrapped by rich oceans and blessed with ample rainfall and a moderate climate, Tasmania produces world-class food. Southern Rock Lobster, Pacific oyster abalone, and Atlantic salmon come from the waters. The lush pastures raise some of Australia’s best beef. Tasmanian dairy products are legendary. Then there’s Leatherwood wild honey and black truffles (known as Périgord truffles in France).

Think Tassie Pinot Noir with slow pulled pork, sparkling with freshly shucked oysters, Chardonnay with Tassie’s juicy scallops, Cabernet Merlot with grass-fed spring lamb, and iced riesling with spiced pear pavlova. Josef Chromy Cellar Door and Frogmore Creek wineries are renowned for their restaurants. 

Pro Tip: In Hobart, The Lounge by Frogmore Creek is an elegant bar and restaurant on Hobart’s waterfront. 

6. Sustainability Beyond Winemaking 

Tasmania is green in more ways than one. The Australian Greens are a national political party that grew from environmental campaigns in Tasmania. Over 20 percent of the land is part of UNESCO’s Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, and 40 percent is a national park or reserve.

It’s easy to pick a Taswegian at an airport — the men often had flowing beards, and Tasmanians are known for being passionate about their wilderness hikes. Tasmanian winemakers tend toward permaculture, organics, amphora aging (the process of aging wines in clay), and carbon-neutral trends. 

7. Easy-To-Follow Wine Trails 

Tasmania has four wine trails. The website Wine Tasmania supplies free online maps and tools. Create an itinerary focusing on sparkling or Pinot Noir. Pinpoint wineries offering restaurants or accommodation, and definitely make time for at least a few of the best wineries and vineyards introduced below.

Best Tasmanian Wineries Near Hobart

I took a 6-day Tassie wine trip with Wine Guild Victoria. These experts know the best wineries to visit; as a novice, I got to sip and enjoy. I’m thankful to the organizers, Graeme Lofts, author of Heart and Soul: Australia’s First Families of Wine, and his wife, Dianne, who circled Tasmania twice researching the itinerary.

Their choices for my stand-alone tour showcased Tasmania’s distinctive wines and provided variety. Each winery was different because of its colonial history, modern architecture, or stunning grounds. Below I outline the stops on our itinerary, beginning with the wineries nearest Hobart. 

Riversdale Estate, Cambridge 

Riversdale Estate screams “Vive la France,” with its French bistro, European decor, a French Orangery serving silver-service high teas, and French Provincial accommodation. The English may have settled the region, but the French came first. In 1802, Napoleon Bonaparte commissioned Pierre Faure aboard the Naturaliste, and he was the first European into Pittwater, landing on the shores near present-day Riversdale. The winery builds on these French origins with a French winemaker and a $7 million winery harnessing innovative French technology.

Book a formal free tasting before a sea of regally monogrammed glasses. Large windows showcase the Pittwater waterfront. Wines reflect the unique terroir of the location

Must-Try Wines At Riversdale: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon

Puddleduck Vineyard, Richmond 

Darren and Jackie Brown established their boutique family-owned winery in 1997. The seated tastings are relaxed in a room jutting over their duck pond. Their Ducky Duck Shop stocks everything ducky.

As we sipped our wines of choice, a flotilla of fluffy ducklings passed below right on cue. BYO picnics and nestle in. 

Must-Try Wines At Puddleduck: Fumé Blanc, Pinot Noir, and flagship Bubbleduck — made from a blend of 60 percent Pinot Noir and 40 percent Chardonnay

Every Man & His Dog Vineyard, Richmond 

Maurice and Helen Curtis, the owners of Federation Chocolate, purchased this vineyard in 2021. Their friendliness and good humor make for outstanding hosts. They pair artisan chocolates with wine — a match made in heaven. Tasked with nibbling hand-crafted chocolates while sipping, there was silence from our usually rowdy group. No one spat the wine as doing so would mean not finishing the chocolate. Book ahead for chocolate matching.

Must-Try Wines At Every Man & His Dog: Cool climate Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Unwooded Chardonnay 

Frogmore Creek, Cambridge 

Frogmore Creek is the largest ultra-premium cool-climate winery in Southern Tasmania. The blue-timber Hampton-style architecture overlooks the Coal River Valley, and the estate is home to the Frogmore Creek and 42 Degrees South wine labels. Enjoy intimate tastings at the Cellar Door or wine flights over lunch. 

Must-Try Wine At Frogmore Creek: Iced Riesling with the Lavender Field dessert — blueberry panna cotta, violet sponge, shortbread crumb, lavender ice cream, and candied violet

Derwent Estate, Granton 

Stop at Derwent Estate for a tasting in the convict-built Rathbone Cottage (circa 1820). Sit by the fire or on the verandah overlooking the Derwent River. Stroll the beautiful grounds. Tasmania has distinct subregions, including the Derwent Valley, where this vineyard has a calcareous soil type similar to places like Champagne, the Loire, and Burgundy.

The estate’s straw bale and lime structure is perfect for maturing wines in barrels. The on-site Shed Restaurant’s menu includes wallaby loin, stone ground beer bread with nasturtium butter, whipped coconut cream, poached rhubarb, and fennel syrup cake.

Must-Try Wines At Derwent: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

Best Tasmanian Wineries Near Launceston

We shifted camp, relocating from Hobart to Launceston, a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in the Pipers River area, which is considered second only to France’s Champagne region when it comes to the production of sparkling wine.

Bay Of Fires Wines, Pipers River

Bay of Fires Wines shares its cellar door with the prestigious House of Arras, Australia’s most-awarded wine brand, and affordable-but-quality Eddystone Point. A House of Arras sparkling was named the world’s best in 2020. The winery offers extensive masterclasses and experiences for serious sparkling lovers.

Must-Try Wine At Bay Of Fires: Anything sparkling

Jansz Tasmania, Pipers Brook 

In 1989 Heemskerk and the French Champagne house Roederer introduced the renowned sparkling “Jansz,” becoming Tasmania’s first to use Méthode Traditionnelle, whereby wine undergoes a secondary fermentation inside the bottle. Visit the ivy-clad tasting room. Outside benches and tables have views over a lake.

Must-Try Wine (And Bites) At Jansz Tasmania: Wine-tasting floats and platters on the lawn (I can’t speak highly enough of the Bruny Island cheeses they offer. They live on in my memory.)

Pipers Brook Vineyard, Pipers Brook

Established in 1974, Pipers Brook is a pioneer of the Tasmanian wine industry. They produce the acclaimed Kreglinger Vintage, Pipers Brook, and Ninth Island wines. 

Nadine’s Cafe at Pipers Brook offers self-guided tastings that match Tasmanian produce with estate-grown wines. In a region famous for its food platters, Nadine’s takes the cake. It takes the cake and everything else and bundles them onto a platter. Think mountains of hot and cold food prepared in-house, duck rolls; rice balls; stuffed mushrooms, gourmet cheeses; prawns; smoked salmon; quince paste; a Pinot-soaked whole pear, and a chocolate fudge-style cake with raspberries. 

Must-Try Wines At Pipers Brook: World-class sparkling wines, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc

Clover Hill, Lebrina 

Clover Hill Wines is poised over a valley offering breathtaking views; the modern rammed-earth building shaped like a clover. Enjoy wines fit for royalty, enjoyed by Queen Elizabeth at Government House in Canberra, and served at Crown Prince Frederik and Princess Mary’s Royal Wedding.

Must-Try Wines (And Bites) At Clover Hill: The Small Plate Tasting Menu lunch, a seated tasting of 6 Clover Hill sparkling wines (reservations required), plus a glass of Clover Hill Vintage Brut or Vintage Riché

Josef Chromy Wines, Relbia 

Josef Chromy Wines and Restaurant was named Northern Tasmania’s Best Large Cellar Door in 2021. Tastings are in the original 1880s homestead, surrounded by century-old gardens. Roses trail down to an idyllic lake with waterside gazebos. Enjoy the chef-hatted restaurant. Or pre-book a gourmet hamper and bottle of wine to relax on the grounds.

Must-Try Wines At Josef Chromy: Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Botrytis Riesling, and Ruby Pinot Port in addition to the renowned Tasmanian traditional method sparkling

Tamar Ridge, ​Rosevears

The Brown Family Wine Group (previously Brown Brothers) purchased Tamar Ridge in 2010 to expand into Tasmania. These vineyards account for 20 percent of Tasmania’s wine production. Turner Stillhouse shares the grounds and offers tastings of Three Cuts Gin.

Must-Try Wines At Tamar Ridge: Cool-climate Pinot Noir alongside Pirie Sparkling and cool-climate white varietals (though with gin on the scene, I must admit my loyalties were divided!)

Additional Recommendations

• The Lufra at Eaglehawk Neck for seafood with views over the wild Tasman Sea
• Old Kempton Distillery for colonial history and award-winning single-malt whisky
• Huntington Tavern for country fare and fine ales
• Alida Restaurant, inside Penny Royal, for excellent cocktails and Tasmanian dishes
• A visit to Cataract Gorge — perfect for walking off the excess calories

For more on Tasmania, consider The One Place You Don’t Have On Your Australia Travel Itinerary, But Definitely Should.

Tree-covered hills and the sea surround Wellington, New Zealand’s capital city. With nature so close by, there are many opportunities to see New Zealand’s native wildlife. New Zealand is famous for rare flightless birds including the national icon, the kiwi, while more common species such as the tūi and kererū fly around the city. There’s other wildlife too — marine mammals, lizards, and even insects.

Many visitors take the ferry between the North Island and the South Island and pass through Wellington, so it’s worth allowing some time to explore. Some places where you can see wildlife are so close to the city that they are a short car or public transport trip away and don’t require serious hiking. Here are three places in Wellington that are great for spotting different species of wildlife and are easy to get to.

Zealandia

An Urban Ecosanctuary

When the only sounds are rustling leaves and bird calls, it’s hard to believe Zealandia is surrounded by suburbia. This ecosanctuary was created by building a predator-proof fence around a former water supply dam and gradually reintroducing native species of birds and plants. Today, Zealandia is home to more than 40 species of birds that have flourished and even spread beyond the sanctuary’s boundaries.

Kākā

It’s an easy walk along the main path from the entrance to the forested area where the distinctive orange feathers of the kākā swoop overhead. Kākā are an endangered species, but their numbers have increased in Zealandia, and they are sometimes even seen in city parks. When I visit Zealandia, I wait by the bird feeders at feeding time and always see kākā flying in to feed there.

Takahē

Down the hill, a pair of takahē forage in the grass in the wetland area. The flightless takahē was thought to be extinct until scientists rediscovered it in a remote mountain area in 1948. The population now totals about 440 because of conservation efforts in Zealandia and elsewhere.

Tuatara

As well as birds, Zealandia has various reptiles, including the tuatara, a rare species that is a surviving relic from the age of the dinosaurs. Tuatara live in burrows and emerge to bask in the sun, so they can be hard to spot. The area they inhabit is signposted and Zealandia volunteers will point out any tuatara that are visible. I often see skinks and geckos darting across the track or lurking under leaves at the side of the track where they are well-camouflaged.

Back at the entrance, an exhibit gives background on the wildlife in the sanctuary. I find the photos and sound recordings of bird calls help to identify any unfamiliar birds. There’s a café there too, although it’s nice to picnic outside by the lake on a fine day.

Getting to Zealandia is easy via shuttle or public bus. It’s a few minute’s drive from the central city and has parking for cars and campervans.

Pro Tip: Zealandia runs several guided tours that help visitors spot birds and learn to identify birds that you might see around the city. The best is the night tour where there is a high chance of seeing kiwi foraging in their natural nocturnal habitat. 

Matiu/Somes Island

A Scientific Reserve In Wellington Harbor

On board the ferry to Matiu/Somes Island, we were lucky to spot penguins swimming in the water. It’s worth keeping an eye on the water, as dolphins are fairly common in Wellington Harbor, and orcas are occasional visitors.

After a steep uphill walk from the wharf, I took the path to the lighthouse. This path overlooks cliffs, rocky islets, and gives the best view for birdwatchers. Seabirds flew around, searching for food and returning to their nests. I recognized southern black-backed gulls and variable oystercatchers, whose long orange beaks made them instantly visible.

Like Zealandia, Matiu/Somes Island has tuatara that were introduced as part of a national breeding program. It’s more difficult to spot them here than in Zealandia. However, I saw plenty of skinks and geckos along the paths, mostly basking in the sun.

Wētā

Another inhabitant of the island is the wētā. While these insects tend to be nocturnal, there is a “wētā hotel” near the lighthouse — a hollowed-out log with a shutter that I opened to see a rather large wētā inside.

Returning to the wharf, I walked along the small section of the shore open to visitors. It was nesting season and, taking care not to get too close, I spotted several birds sitting on their nests. Access to most of the shoreline is restricted to protect the birds.

The ferry leaves from Queens Wharf in central Wellington and takes half an hour to reach the island. How long to stay on the island depends on ferry timetables, with a minimum 2-hour visit. A longer visit allows time to explore the quarantine station and admire the view of Wellington from the top of the island.

Pro Tip: If you want to picnic while you’re on Matiu/Somes Island, bring food and water with you, as there are no shops or cafés there. It also has no garbage disposal facilities, so visitors are asked to take any garbage with them when they leave.

Red Rocks Coastal Walk

New Zealand Fur Seals

The Red Rocks Coastal Walk along Wellington’s rugged southern coast leads to a seal colony. Although it takes an hour to get to the colony, there are spectacular views of the South Island along the way. On a clear day, snow is visible on the peaks of the Kaikōura Ranges. The gravel road winds beneath high cliffs, past the rust-red rock formations the walk is named after. Finally seals start to appear, sunning themselves on rocks, and then around a bend, large numbers of seals are lying around.

These are New Zealand fur seals and while they tolerate their numerous visitors, it’s best to be careful around them. Signs at the reserve advise keeping 20 meters away and not getting between the seal and the sea. I’ve also found that seals are well-camouflaged and can look very much like a rock when they are asleep, so I watch where I step. Seals have a pungent smell, another reason not to get too close.

The seals spend a lot of time sleeping, and occasionally yawn, stretch, and rollover. When they wake up, they often head for the sea and dive in. The colony has seals of all ages, from very young to weatherbeaten old seals. Occasionally a fight breaks out between male seals over territory, but otherwise, they are fairly quiet.

It’s easy to spend an hour observing the seals and their behavior, so allow 3 hours overall to walk there and back to see the seals. After the walk, if you would like a coffee, the nearest cafés are at Island Bay. I like the Beach House and Kiosk. It has great coastal views and I often see divers exploring the marine reserve offshore or ferries sailing to the South Island. While taking water and snacks on the walk is recommended, there’s not really a good place to picnic along the way.

Driving is the easiest way to get there and there is a car park at the entrance. The road into the reserve is accessible to 4WD vehicles only. Although it is possible to get close to the entrance by public bus, this requires changing buses.

Pro Tip: The best time to visit Red Rocks is between April and September when the seals migrate north from sub-Antarctic islands in search of warmer weather. While the seals find the weather warm, it is autumn and winter in Wellington which can be cold, so wearing warm clothing is recommended. The walk is exposed to southerly winds and it’s worth checking the weather forecast before setting out.

Australia is a fascinating island country at the bottom of the globe, the only inhabited continent located entirely south of the equator. While its intrigue captures the attention of travelers, the distance and time it takes to get there is one thing that can be off-putting to many. 

Buckle up for a 15-hour flight from Los Angeles to Sydney, or be prepared for over 21 hours of flying time from London. Then, just as you start recovering from jetlag, you have to fend off all those scary creatures that roam the country; hell-bent on killing you! Or are they?

Let’s take a look at the six scariest creatures to see if they are genuinely worthy of our fear.

1. Box Jellyfish

When the award for the most venomous creature in the world is up for grabs, the box jellyfish had better have an acceptance speech written. This creature, also known as a sea wasp, can cause death in as little as 2–4 minutes.

The bell (head) of the jellyfish grows to a foot across and each corner has 15 tentacles that can stretch as long as 10 feet. It is from the tentacles that potent venom is delivered. The nervous system is affected within 4 minutes of the fatal sting and the toxin locks the heart into a contracted state. Death comes quickly.

But the good news is that only 79 people have been killed by box jellyfish since record-keeping began in 1879. So, the odds are stacked in your favor. And, they’re only found in the warm waters of northern Australia, mainly from November–May. Draw a line halfway through the map of Australia and you should be fine to swim anywhere south of that line.

Pro Tip: The best defense is prevention. If visiting regions where they live, swim only within stinger enclosures. Always wear a stinger suit if you swim outside the enclosures. Locations such as Cairns and Airlie Beach in Queensland have protective lagoons with sandy beaches and grassy areas, so all family members can cool off safely away from ocean waters.

2. Taipan Snake

We can’t deny that the world’s most venomous snake, the taipan, is endemic to Australia. Their venom is so potent it can kill a human within hours if a sufficient amount is injected.

The average length of a taipan is 6–8 feet and they, too, are found in the warmer, wetter temperate-to-tropical coastal regions. Their habitat includes woodlands, grazing paddocks, hollow logs, piles of vegetation and litter, and sugar cane fields — anywhere there is an abundance of rats and mice.

Take comfort in knowing that rats, mice, and birds are their preferred diet. Humans aren’t featured on their menu, but they will strike quickly and repeatedly if under a surprise siege.

Pro Tip: While known to be highly nervous and alert, taipans prefer a quick vanishing act over engaging in a confrontation. Official estimates declare there are about 3,000 all-species snake bite cases annually in Australia; 300–500 require anti-venom with an average of two fatalities a year. 

3. Great White Shark

We’ve all read Peter Benchley’s novel Jaws, or seen Spielberg’s movie adaptation. I was 14 when my fingernails dug deeply into the cinema seating on my one and only viewing of the movie. I screamed and looked away; the spine-chilling scenes of a great white shark attacking humans and boats were too much. That movie kept people out of the water for years. For many, the vision remains in the depths of our brain, parcelled as “things to be scared of.”

These sharks inhabit Australian waters, but humans are also not on their usual menu. The chance of being a victim of a great white shark attack in Australia is well over 50 million to one.

Pro Tip: The International Shark Attack File lists the number of unprovoked and provoked attacks, with the latter almost doubled. Therein lies the first tip: as the saying goes, “don’t poke the bear!” Avoiding unprovoked attacks includes not swimming at dusk or in darkness, not wearing sparkling objects and swimming only in clear waters. If the beach is patrolled, swim between the flags, and leave the water quickly if schools of fish gather.

4. Saltwater Crocodile 

Steve Irwin, the late, great Aussie crocodile hunter, and the fictitious movie character Crocodile Dundee, gave the impression that crocodile wrestling is a daily pastime for Australians. The truth is that it is a big “nope!”

This fearsome animal is the largest living reptile in the world. In Australia, they can be found in coastal waters, estuaries, lakes, inland swamps, and marshes in the northern areas of Queensland, the Northern Territory, and upper regions of western Australia. Growing up to 7 meters in length (almost 23 feet) and living up to 80 years of age, the fascination around these creatures often counteracts the fear that surrounds them.

They are not fussy eaters; their diet consists mostly of birds and fish. Still, they’ll take an unsuspecting kangaroo, water buffalo, or foolhardy human who enters their space. However, you can take comfort in that they’re reported to kill less than one human annually on average.

Pro Tip: Don’t seek them out in the wild. Never swim or get near the water’s edge where signs indicate their presence. Several safe, up-close opportunities exist in which to view them. You can take a river cruise and watch in safety as wild crocodiles are fed. The Crocosaurus Cove in Darwin provides an intimate underwater viewing system where those game enough can enter the water and appreciate the size of these reptiles from the safety of a clear acrylic cylinder. 

5. Sydney Funnel Web Spider

As the name suggests, the Sydney Funnel-web spider is found only in New South Wales. This little guy grows to 1.5 inches and burrows into the ground, predominantly under logs and rocks in forested areas. They spin silk trip lines around their burrow and rush out when tasty beetles, cockroaches, small lizards, or snails herald their presence when brushing against the silk.

Contrary to popular belief, they don’t jump onto or chase people. While they may stumble into a swimming pool or take cover in a shoe left outside, they don’t live in houses. Although their fearsome reputation is often exaggerated, they deserve respect as their venom is the most toxic of any spider to humans and can result in death. The venom of the females and juvenile spiders is less harmful.

Pro Tip: First aid consisting of a pressure bandage and immobilization should be administered immediately after a bite is suspected. The victim should then be taken to a hospital where an anti-venom can be given. There have been no fatalities from Sydney Funnel-web spider bites since the anti-venom was developed in 1981.

6. Stonefish

Suppose you venture into shallow bays, estuaries, and reef flats in the coastal regions of northern Australia. In that case, you may encounter the estuarine stonefish. This experience won’t be pleasant. For a start, the stonefish is just plain ugly. However, it does hold the award for the most venomous fish and deserves respect on that merit. But to look at it, it is junkyard ugly.

Around 1 foot in length, the skin of the stonefish is devoid of scales, covered in warts and algae. Its beady eyes protrude from a raised bony structure on a grooved and pitted head. Their grotesque head and warty body allow them to be masters at camouflaging well against the rocky sea bottom.

It is pretty rare to actually see the stonefish; however, should you unwittingly step near or directly on one, you’ll be met with the venom from its 13 needle-sharp dorsal fin spines. The pain is immediately excruciating, may last for days, and can involve muscular paralysis, breathing difficulties, heart failure, and death.

Pro Tip: Wear sturdy footwear when walking on reef flats or adjacent rocky or weedy areas to avoid this unpleasant experience. It is important to note that stonefish can survive out of the water at low tide. If stung by a stonefish, seek medical attention quickly, as anti-venom is available. There have been no recorded stonefish-related deaths in Australia. One tough Aussie claims he navigated the pain simply by keeping his foot in a bucket of hot water while drinking a bottle of red wine! 

Noteworthy, unusual, or dramatic events like shark and crocodile attacks make headlines on global news sites and induce unwarranted fear. However, the animals that create the most risk to our lives are not featured in this list and are, in fact, much more commonplace.

Horses and donkeys cause the most deaths in Australia, mostly related to falls, followed by cattle, generally causing road accidents. Domestic dogs rank as the third biggest killer, predominantly in attacks on children under 4 years of age. Kangaroos causing road accidents and bees stinging allergic victims round out Australia’s top five risks to life from animals.

Clearly, these six featured creatures, including sharks, crocodiles, snakes, and spiders, don’t warrant the fear surrounding them. With common sense, the chances of encountering these creatures are rare, leaving visitors to enjoy the scenery, weather, and laid-back culture Australia offers. And there’s plenty of red wine for medicinal purposes, too!

The Tweed is Australia’s best-kept tourist secret. The 500-mile square tapestry in Northern NSW is fringed by 23 miles of stunning coastline and dotted with hinterland villages, organic farms, and the World Heritage-listed Wollumbin National Park.

The area borders Byron Shire (40 minutes below) but has retained the authenticity Byron Bay is losing with its celebrity status and multi-million dollar homes.

Tweed Tourism showed me around, but the gushing and oohing are my own. Wherever we wandered, Wollumbin, the towering remnant plug of an ancient volcano, watched our every move.

Wollumbin is the first place on the mainland touched by sunlight. Like this glancing kiss, I can only alight on some paddock-to-plate restaurants, distillers, and artisans calling this region home.

Reaching The Tweed

International flights service the Gold Coast Airport. The terminal is in Queensland, but runways straddle NSW. Instead of following the tourist crush to Queensland’s Gold Coast, mosey down to The Tweed.

Pro Tip: Airport stays include Rydges Gold Coast Airport Hotel and La Costa Motel, a fun 1950s-themed motel. A2B arranges transfers to The Tweed.

Kingscliff

Kingscliff is an upmarket coastal village 20 mins from the airport. Authorities imposed a three-story building restriction so Gold Coast-style overdevelopment can’t happen here.

Mantra on Salt Beach

Mantra on Salt Beach resort has 317 rooms offering private balconies. Some overlook the ocean, others the lagoon-swimming pool.

Pro Tip: Stipulate your preference as a couple overlook the car park.

Salt Beach

Mantra’s back gate leads to Salt Beach. Stepping onto the dazzling white sand and seeing the arch of blue sky, I realized why locals keep this place secret. I was alone in paradise like Tom Hanks in Castaway — except for a lifesaver and his golden retriever sporting yellow and red caps. Retrievers love water and will retrieve anything. I was perfectly safe.

Salt Village

Resorts can hold guests hostage with limited dining options. Not in Kingscliff. The Salt Village shopping area edges Mantra and Peppers resorts, offering restaurants and a liquor store. Walking through the babble of people enjoying refreshments sounded like the best of times.

Sunfall Tapas Bar

Sunfall is perfect for a post-swim cocktail. Jason introduced his venture, “I opened a gym and gave up exercise. I figured the same would happen with alcohol when I opened a bar.” We enjoyed Sunfall’s signature cocktail — vodka, Malibu, coconut tequila, Bombay gin, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, and soda water. With this tipple, I’ve no plans for abstinence anytime soon.

Watersport Guru

A popular walk runs from Kingscliff Beach to Cudgen Creek’s entrance. Float up on the incoming tide. Watersport Guru hires kayaks and stand-up paddleboards. Explore the wetlands and mangroves, spotting herons and eagles. Watersport Guru also offers Cook Island tours to snorkeling above green, hawksbill, and loggerhead turtles (the second largest turtles in the world).

Kiff And Culture Tours

We boarded a Kiff and Culture mini-bus to reach the Hinterland. I hate being herded and normally avoid group tours. But Kiff and Culture specialize in relaxed outings: long lazy lunches, craft breweries, and boutique distilleries. Perfect!

Kiff is South African slang meaning “epic” or “awesome.” Our young driver Alex was a fabulous addition to our group, consisting of the sprightly and less sprightly. His kindness to those of us with mobility issues was unwavering and never condescending.

Alex lives in the Tweed, so knew the locals at our stops, happily chatting with them and us around tables heaped with the region’s bounty. As a content creator, he’s handy with a camera. I’ve used his photos with his permission in this story.

Pro Tip: Kiff and Culture run private and public tours. Their Tweed Hinterland Tour Down to Byron Bay covers many of the places I mention.

Murwillumbah

Leaving the coast, the Tweed River serpentines through a lush green valley. The town of Murwillumbah is the region’s pumping heart but is only 25 minutes from the coast.

The Imperial Hotel

The Imperial is a 1931 restored country pub and is better for couples as solos get single beds — a blast from the past. Fall out of bed in the morning to experience the best baking this side of Paris. Tearing into croissants (plain, almond-filled, or chocolate) at Ben’s Patisserie with coffee was bliss.

We dined at Barrels Pizza, gluten-free bases topped with ingredients like Fior di latte, portobello mushrooms, porcini, basil, and jalapenos. “Barrel” is a surfing term, so more kiff culture. On balmy nights, the restaurant’s open frontage is strung with lights against the night sky with tunes drifting upwards from live musicians.

M-Arts Precinct

The M-Arts Precinct is where the local artists hang, literally — the cavernous space is filled with paintings, ceramics, jewelry, leatherwork, and skateboard deck art. Artisans work in shipping containers. The Regent Cinema is an Art Deco masterpiece. Bistro Livi boasts an ex-chef from Movida, one of Melbourne’s best restaurants. Spangled Drongo Pop-up Bar serves cocktails, wine, and their own brewed ale in a fabulous lounging area. Kat Harvey Cheese was an unexpected surprise. She’s an ex-chef turned cheesemaker who sells a collection of the world’s top cheeses, and with such flair and passion that you’ll want to spend all day with her.

Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre

Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre offers panoramic views over the Tweed Valley. Margaret Olley (1923–2011) was one of Australia’s favorite still-life artists. Her home studio is recreated here. Ollie loved to paint flowers — cornflowers, delphiniums, calendulas, hydrangeas, and more — saying: “If the house looks dirty, buy another bunch of flowers…” See her studio strewn with flowers. Her ashes are interred in the garden.

Tweed Markets, Murwillumbah

The Tweed’s volcanic soil, sunshine, and sub-tropical rainfall create a hothouse for abundant produce. Visit farmers markets in Murwillumbah and surrounding villages. I met some producers firsthand. Fabian Fabbro and Jodie Vicaars’ Woodland Valley Farm epitomize the area’s sustainable food scene. If I were a chicken, I’d check in — green acreage and a hens’ dirt day spa for pecking and scratching. Henopause (when hens stop laying) doesn’t mean the soup pot. Instead, they are given to families as pets. Excess yolks go into a range of artisan pasta sauces and duck egg custard.

Ventura Brewing brews Australia’s first artisanal alcoholic kombucha. Our Friday night libations just got healthier. Dona Cholita brings authentic Mexican foods to Australia; authentic tortillas use organic non-GMO maize flour.

Tumbulgum

Follow the river downstream to the village of Tumbulgum. Soak up river views from the House of Gabriel while tucking into scones and cream.

Tweed Escapes and Blue Ginger Picnics Cruise

We combined a Tweed Escapes cruise with a Blue Ginger Picnic. Tania Usher also offers picnics on land. But there’s something magical about drifting propped against plush cushions, a short reach from a lavish spread of organic seasonal produce while sipping a sparkling drink and watching the sun shimmering on the water.

Husk Distillers

Husk Distillers has a backstory. The business was a shed in a paddock until Paul Messenger created the world’s first all-natural, color-changing craft gin from the butterfly pea flower. Alchemy! The pH changes with mixers – Ink Gin’s purple swirls to a dazzling pink. In 2016, actress Margot Robbie was honeymooning in the region and Instagrammed herself drinking Ink Gin.

Thousands suddenly wanted to buy it. The rush was unexpected; the family-run business didn’t have the stock, but with pre-orders, raised funds to build the present upmarket distillery with its cellar door and cocktail bar. Enjoy cocktails and inventive dishes such as gin sorbet trios and rum-roasted nuts. Despite Ink Gin’s popularity, Paul’s primary mission was to create Agricole rum with the sugar cane grown on the property — farm-to-bottle. See the canefields as you sip magical drinks. Distillery tours are available.

Duranbah

Tropical Fruit World

Tropical Fruit World is a commercial exotic fruit farm and a research park with more than 500 exotic tropical fruit varieties. Its official address is Duranbah, but it’s located in the countryside.

I wasn’t looking forward to the visit as the name sounded like a theme park. But the only ride I encountered was behind a tractor — an easy way to cover the 200 acres.

Rides were followed with tasting platters. Wow! The platters featured chocolate pudding fruit (rich, soft, pulpy) pomelo, canistel (or “egg fruit”), yacon root, rangpur lime, indigenous finger limes (exploding like caviar in your mouth), and dainty Davidson Plums.

At the Plantation Cafe, try passionfruit cheesecake, custard apple ice cream, jackfruit nachos, and smashed avocado on sourdough. We don’t smear it in Australia; we load it.

Buy fruit from their market and test out tropical fruit-based beauty products.

Pro Tip: Tropical Fruit World is located 20 minutes from Gold Coast Airport or 10 minutes by car from Kingscliff.

Uki

The cute village of Uki, 15 minutes from Murwillumbah, is the base for outdoor activities including hiking in national parks.

Bastion Lane

Bastion Lane Espresso roasts beans, serves coffee, and sells stamps in a 1909 heritage-listed post office. A great excuse to send postcards.

Mavis’s Kitchen And Cabins 

At Mavis’s Kitchen, horticulturist Jackie Hopkinson showed us through the flourishing garden. The much-loved restaurant is in a traditional Queenslander house. Head Chef Simon Liljeqvist plucks ingredients from the garden and surrounds. “A dish can start with me nibbling on a plant,” he said, “and lead to something new and exciting.”

Simon uses botanicals in salts, sugars, liqueurs, vinegar, and teas. Bottlebrush flowers give his margaritas a bright, tart berry flavor. Try the grilled Bay Lobster, glazed with cuttlefish garum, bunya shoyu and mirin butter sauce, lychee, and chili jam oil. Our ooh-moment was his “Bottlebrush splice”: pannacotta with bottle-brush syrup, topped with bottlebrush granita, the spiky flowers harvested from the tree outside.

Pro Tip: Accommodation in bush cabins scattered on the 25-acre property. All have nature views.

Carool

Carool houses the Wirui Estate coffee plantation. Imagine waking up and not only smelling the coffee but walking through the plantation.

Potager

Peter Burr’s Potager won Gold in the 2022 NSW Tourism Awards. It’s homely but with superlative food, impeccable service, and knock-out views. Guests enter via the kitchen garden. Enjoy tasting menus or individual dishes like seared wild venison loin, smoked beetroot custard, horseradish greens, ink gin, and blueberry jus. Although fish stew is the dish, diners refuse to let Peter take it off the menu.

Pro Tip: Head here from the airport. Like so many Tweed places, it’s only a 20-minute scenic drive.

Queenstown is one of New Zealand’s most popular destinations, famous for its spectacular location on Lake Wakatipu surrounded by mountains. I’ve visited Queenstown several times over the past 10 years to enjoy the scenery and sights. There are some exciting scenic tours from Queenstown such as jet boating or helicopter flights and adventure activities such as bungee jumping and paragliding. The cost of all these activities can add up, leading to the perception that it’s an expensive place to visit.

Visitors have been coming to Queenstown for years to enjoy the scenery and outdoor activities, long before jet boats and helicopters, so it is possible to enjoy this beautiful area on a budget. Here are some experiences that are easier on the wallet and that will help you explore Queenstown.

1. Queenstown Gardens

Queenstown Gardens is a landscaped park that is an easy walk from the center of town, making it an ideal escape from the busy commercial area. The location on a peninsula jutting out into Lake Wakatipu provides great views looking back towards the town and across to the far shore. The lakeside path is a popular walking route that only takes about an hour.

Heading into the park, the paths lead through a rose garden, ornamental shrubs, and mature trees. These make the gardens beautiful in all seasons. Here and there, you may spot a sculpture or a memorial plaque.

Queenstown Gardens also has several sporting facilities. One that’s worth knowing about is the ice rink. As well as ice skating, the rink hires (rents) discs for the quirky but fun sport of frisbee golf. Disk hire is NZ$6 while the use of the frisbee golf course in the gardens is free.

2. Scenic Walks

There are many walking tracks around Queenstown, catering to all levels of fitness. Some of the easiest are around the lake shore, while those heading up into the hills tend to be more challenging. The views are often spectacular but walkers also get to see forests and reminders of Queenstown’s history. 

Pro Tip: To find out more about walking tracks, the Department of Conservation and Queenstown Lakes District Council are good sources of information.

3. Catch The Ferry Across Lake Wakatipu

Getting out on Lake Wakatipu means you get to view the scenery from a different perspective. While there are lake cruises and jet boat rides, taking the ferry across Frankton Arm costs only NZ$5. The small boat takes 20 minutes from Queenstown to the Hilton with a couple of stops along the way at Frankton marina and Bayview. 

A ferry trip could be combined with walking the Frankton Arm Walkway by walking from Queenstown to Frankton marina and catching the ferry back. Kelvin Peninsula Walkway is also accessible by ferry, getting off at Bayview or the Hilton.

4. Historic Arrowtown

Arrowtown sprang up during the Otago gold rush in the 1860s. Relics of its gold mining past are everywhere from the Victorian-era shops and miners’ cottages along Buckingham Street to the Chinese settlement down by the Arrow River. It’s worth spending a few hours exploring this quaint town.

Buckingham Street

A stroll along Buckingham Street is always enjoyable, browsing shops that have everything from practical everyday items to unique artistic creations. At the Remarkable Sweet Shop, you can sample their famous fudge while further down the street, the historic post office still sells stamps and postcards that you can post in the old-style pillar box outside. The New Orleans Hotel started serving thirsty gold miners in 1866 and is still welcoming customers today.

Beyond the shops, Buckingham Street is lined with tall trees which dwarf the small miners’ cottages. It’s a picturesque scene when the leaves turn gold in autumn. 

The Chinese Settlement

Downhill from Buckingham Street, little remains of the Chinese settlement on the flat ground by the Arrow River. One of the few original buildings is Ah Lum’s store, a solid stone building that was a social center for the Chinese miners as well as a shop. A short walk through the reserve leads past replicas of the small miners’ huts. Although it’s a lovely setting by the river, it was a cold, damp place to live in comparison to the cozy cottages up the hill. Today it’s a pleasant walk under the shade of the trees.

Pro Tip: Arrowtown is charming all year round, but in autumn it is stunning. The large deciduous trees lining Buckingham street and along the river turn gold, one of the best fall foliage displays in New Zealand. The town celebrates the season with an autumn festival each year at the end of April.

5. Lakes District Museum

Arrowtown’s old Bank of New Zealand where miners once deposited their gold now houses the Lakes District Museum. The exhibits tell the story of the area from the original Māori inhabitants through to the arrival of European settlers, first for farming and then gold mining. Old farming implements and gold mining tools feature in the displays, some of which recreate scenes from the past. The Queenstown area has long been a tourist destination and the development of tourism also features in the museum’s collection. A lifebelt and polished brass gauges are among the artifacts from the steamships which used to ply Lake Wakatipu, while vintage wooden skis show how long ago skiing started in this area.

If you want to try panning for gold just like the old gold miners, the museum hires gold pans for NZ$5. It’s only a couple of minute’s walk downhill to the Arrow River where you can wander along the river until you find a good spot to try your luck.

6. Food And Craft Markets

Markets are fun to browse and great spots for people-watching. Queenstown has excellent markets where you can meet locals selling their produce and crafts.

Queenstown Market

If you’re looking for an authentic local souvenir, the Queenstown Market is worth browsing. Here you’ll find local artisans selling diverse wares including photography, clothing, woodcarving, jewelry, leather, pottery, soap, and more. There’s often a musician entertaining the crowds. The market is held in Earnslaw Park in central Queenstown, a picturesque lakeside location. Market days are Saturdays all year round and some Fridays.

Remarkables Market

The Remarkables Market is a great place to shop for local produce for a picnic or if you’re self-catering. The stalls vary from week to week and produce may include fruit, honey, eggs, and vegetables. Treats such as chocolate and pastries are also available. As well as food items, local artisans sell paintings, jewelry, bags, and other handcrafted items. 

The market is held Saturdays in summer at Remarkables Park near the airport. There are also some special market days, a Christmas market, and a twilight food market with food trucks.

7. Dining With A View

Queenstown is known for its excellent dining scene with some renowned restaurants but there are also more modest establishments where you can dine or simply have a coffee and enjoy a lake view.

Patagonia

Patagonia has something for every season with ice cream for a hot summer day and rich hot chocolate for winter. You could enjoy these in their upstairs café overlooking the lake or get take-out and find a spot on the nearby beach.

Vudu Café

Next door, Vudu Café is famous for its decadent cakes, although it does breakfast and lunch as well. The outside tables overlooking the lake are quite popular.

The Bathhouse

The distinctive building on Queenstown beach with a crown on its roof was originally built to celebrate the coronation of King George V. Now it’s home to The Bathhouse restaurant. The indoor and outdoor seating has great views of Lake Wakatipu.

Pro Tip: While hiring a car can be useful for day trips outside of town, it’s not necessary for sightseeing within the town. Queenstown has a good public bus service with buses running to Arrowtown, Frankton, the airport, and other suburbs. If you’re going to use the bus regularly, it’s worth getting a Bee Card so that each trip only costs NZ$2.

South Australia is a state in the south-central part of Australia. It covers 380 square miles, about the same combined area as Texas and New Mexico. The state has a lot of space and not a lot of people to fill it — hence there are many regions to escape to. The capital (and my closest major city), Adelaide, has a population of 1.4 million, which is small compared to major cities in the U.S

Although regarded as the driest state in the driest continent, cereal crops, livestock, horticulture, wine, seafood, forests, and dairy sectors are a vital part of South Australia’s economy. It leads the nation in renewable energy and rich natural assets, with large deposits of copper, gold, iron ore, graphite, and petroleum. 

And then there’s tourism. Visitors can get up close and personal with unique wildlife and immerse in swathes of the ochre-colored outback, dramatic coastlines, world-class wineries, and historic towns and cities. 

South Australia is a relaxed state full of natural wonder, wine, and wildlife. Let me share some of my favorite places to escape to.

1. Coffin Bay

Eyre Peninsula

With a coastline that stretches the distance from New York to Houston, it’s no wonder activities on the Eyre Peninsula involving the sea are popular. Endless beaches, pristine aqua-colored waters, untamed beauty, and seafood that graces the world’s finest restaurants abound.

The Eyre Peninsula is the furthest region from Adelaide, but it is worth going the extra mile to get there. The region’s center is the city of Port Lincoln, a 7-hour drive or a 45-minute flight from Adelaide.

Coffin Bay, a sleepy seaside village, is a 30-minute drive west of Port Lincoln. Those looking for educational but light-hearted fun will enjoy the Oyster Farm and Tasting Tour. Before wading through the shallows to the semi-submerged tour deck, guests are provided waterproof waders. The affable oyster grower will enlighten you with insights into the town’s history and the oyster industry. 

The experience of sipping a glass of white wine, or a bloody mary oyster shot, as you’re served the freshest oysters straight from the sea is truly divine. The tour can include pick up and return from your Port Lincoln hotel if you’re not self-driving.

When hunger sets in, enjoy the all-day tapas-style menu at Oyster HQ, where plenty of culinary options are available if oysters aren’t your thing. 

Pro Tip: I spent all my childhood summer holidays in this little town, learned how to fish and swim, and have watched it grow over the decades. The best time to visit is from March to May, when the crowds have dispersed and the weather is calmer and kinder.

2. Port Lincoln

Eyre Peninsula

The city of Port Lincoln has a population of 15,000 and is built around sandy beaches and rocky coves. It is the “Seafood Capital of Australia,” and the marina provides a safe haven to the commercial fishing fleet and luxury yachts. It is a destination that offers a range of escape opportunities to immerse in the beauty of land and sea. It is one of few places in the world where you can go cage diving with great white sharks. 

Calypso Star Charters ticks off the pinnacle of a thrill seeker’s bucket list on their full-day tours to Neptune Island, 24 nautical miles off the coast. The great white shark is a creature that either fascinates or scares the pants off many; Calypso Star Charters says it boasts an 80 percent success rate of sightings. I’m not sure if that is a good or bad thing. Gulp. Wetsuits, gloves, and booties are supplied to guests who want to head below the surface to get a close-up view from the safety of the cage. Oh, they also give you scuba gear, so you’ll have some breath to be taken away!

However, there’s no shame if you want to watch from the boat. You can purchase the underwater photo packages available at the end of the tour — your friends won’t be able to tell if it’s you with all the scuba gear on, anyway. 

Landlubbers, don’t despair, because there’s plenty to fascinate you, too. Rent a car and drive yourself, or join a tour to hand feed the local wildlife. View koalas up close, venture across sand dunes in a 4-wheel-drive vehicle in Lincoln National Park, gaze out over the Southern Ocean from limestone cliffs, or relax and taste the maritime-influenced wines.

Pro Tip: I choose to stay at the Port Lincoln Hotel. With sea-view balcony rooms, a restaurant, and two bars serving light meals all day, it is ideally located near the beach and shopping precinct. 

3. Rawnsley Park Station

The Flinders Ranges

Regarded as the most accessible outback in Australia, the Flinders Ranges is a mountain range of rocky gorges and rugged, weathered peaks that start around 125 miles north of Adelaide. Stretching 265 miles northward, they provide some of the most dramatic landscapes in Australia. The most significant is Wilpena Pound, an oval-shaped natural amphitheater of mountains 10 miles long and 5 miles wide.

Overlooking the southern side of Wilpena Pound is Rawnsley Park Station. This working sheep station has transformed into an award-winning tourist destination, attracting 20,000 outdoor enthusiasts a year. There are many ways to escape in this wilderness. You can choose hiking and mountain bike tracks, scenic flights, and 4WD tours. You’ll find unique photo opportunities, a swimming pool, or a shady tree to read a book under.

Accommodation options include campsites, the Rawnsley Homestead for 2 couples or a family, self-contained holiday units, or luxury eco villas. The ceilings in these villas retract, offering night-sky viewing from the comfort of your bed. With no artificial light to interfere with the dark night sky, the Australian outback is one of the most impressive skies in the world to stargaze.

Modern Australian cuisine is on the ever-changing menu at the onsite Woolshed Restaurant, situated in an authentic Australian woolshed with a focus on local produce and native ingredients. I recommend the home-grown lamb or the Pepperberry Roo. 

Pro Tip: While I suggest you spend a few days here, a package is available for those on limited time. Priced from around $2,000 AUD per couple, it includes 2 nights in an eco-villa, a 30-minute scenic flight, and a full day 4-wheel-drive tour, including lunch.

4. Port Noarlunga

Fleurieu Peninsula

Port Noarlunga is a beachside suburb 40 minutes south of Adelaide — and one I know really well because I live there! 

I’m fortunate to live on a stretch of the Onkaparinga River, less than half a mile from where it flows gently against oche-colored cliffs to the sea. This section is tidal, so the crystal clear, calm saltwater makes it popular for kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, and swimming. Dogs love it, too, as they are allowed off the leash here, with their owners choosing this location for their regular walks.

A leisurely stroll across the river on a boardwalk, then through sandhills, provides access to Southport Beach. Named a top 10 beach in Australia in 2020, it is an excellent surfing beach for board riders and body surfers. Incidentally, the criteria used to judge the best beach included “international suitability, beach safety, engagement with authentic Aussie locals, and how likely one would be to recommend the beach to a friend.” For an alternative walk, there is a dedicated walk/cycle path along the river.

In Port Noarlunga, a heritage-listed reef lies just off the end of the pier. The town also offers excellent restaurants overlooking the sea, casual cafes for coffee and breakfast, a bakery, a hotel, and bespoke shopping outlets. Award-winning Hortas Restaurant is a special place to watch the sun set over the sea while enjoying seafood or Portuguese cuisine.

The Onkaparinga is not a mighty, majestic, or grand river. But it brings pleasure, exercise, fresh air, a sense of community, a way of life for me, and an escape for many others. 

Pro Tip: I recommend the E-bike and Wine Tour conducted by Gone AWOL Tours. Meet at nearby Moana, then take a casual ride to the McLaren Vale wine region. The first stop is for coffee, then wine tasting and lunch. The tour continues on a minibus, so you can enjoy the world-class wines and cuisine without worrying about a return ride.

5. Kangaroo Island

Kangaroo Island lies 8 miles off the mainland of South Australia, southwest of Adelaide. It is approximately 1,700 square miles, about two-fifths the size of Hawaii. With a population of less than 5,000, it is a nature lover’s paradise. Abundant with native wildlife, including sea lions, koalas, echidnas, penguin colonies, and diverse bird species, the island receives 140,000 visitors each year.

They say the further you travel away from the mainland, the more life seems uncomplicated, and your troubles seem further away. Kangaroo Island is definitely somewhere to escape to. You can be as active or passive as you like. There are only three main towns and plenty of stunning coastlines, natural bush, and farmland between these.

There is an array of accommodation options on the island, including beachside cottages, lighthouse keepers’ cottages, stunning hotels, and retreats. Those with an immersive desire might choose glamping or a farm stay to get to know the locals. Regardless of where you stay, you’ll find art, culture, local wines, fresh produce, and honey, with friendly people around every turn.

Pro Tip: While you’re very likely to see a range of native animals in the wild, I recommend a visit to Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park to see and learn about over 150 species of Australian native animals, reptiles, and birds — and a chance to cuddle a koala.

Many international travelers put Sydney, Melbourne, and the east coast of Australia on their list when planning a trip Down Under. South Australia is often thought of as the forgotten cousin. Still, I can assure you it punches above its weight in the tourism stakes, and you won’t find friendlier people anywhere. I hope to see you here one day!

Now that Australia and New Zealand are open to tourists again, many travelers are looking for Australasian destination inspiration. Our expert travel writers recommend beautiful lesser-known towns to visit in Australia, its island of Tasmania, and New Zealand below. Consider adding these desirable destinations in Australia and New Zealand to your 2023 travel plans.

1. Cygnet, Tasmania

Due to its apple industry, Tasmania has long been known as the Apple Isle. Nestled in the heart of the Australian island, the scenic Huon Valley is home to Cygnet. Nadine Cresswell-Myatt came across this cute township just 45 minutes southwest of Hobart while she was following the Huon Valley Cider Trail. Cygnet once served as the center of Tasmania’s export orchards. Now apples and cherries are grown for cider — a more recent export. “Pagan Cider took me by surprise,” said Cresswell-Myatt, “especially their voluptuous cherry cider.”

Cygnet radiates bohemianism. Historic buildings have been transformed into funky art galleries, boutique shops, and heritage stays. Eateries such as the Port Cygnet Cannery offer wholesome fare. Originally the area’s apple canning factory, it is now a fully self-sustainable restaurant that prides itself on nose-to-tail butchery and making everything in-house, right down to the bread and butter. “I left enamored with a pickled carrot!” Cresswell-Myatt exclaimed.

Idyllic scenery reminiscent of England’s Lake District meets the folksy feel of Woodstock, New York, in Cygnet, where the owner of the supermarket doles out compliments and the hairdresser gossips. Friendly locals billet visitors at the annual Cygnet Folk Festival, January 13-15, 2023.

2. Featherston, New Zealand

Shops line the main road in Featherston, which looks much the same as it did more than a century ago. While some of the old shops still sell everyday essentials, several others have been occupied by second-hand bookshops in recent years, making Featherston a Booktown. In 2018, the town joined the International Organization of Booktowns, a worldwide network of towns with a concentration of second-hand and antiquarian booksellers. Like other Booktowns, Featherston hosts literary events throughout the year. An annual festival in May offers a weekend of author talks and workshops. “The beautiful autumn foliage makes this an ideal time to visit Featherston,” Denise Stephens said.

However, Featherston’s not just for book lovers! Train enthusiasts come from all over the world to visit the Fell Locomotive Museum, which celebrates Featherston’s railway heritage. It is home to H199, the only locomotive of its kind in the world. It was designed to take heavy loads up the steep Rimutaka Incline. “The town was a rural center with the first railway station over the hills from Wellington,” explained Stephens, “Museum volunteers regularly start up the locomotive to show visitors the unique mechanism that hauled heavy loads over the nearby hills.”

3. Opononi, New Zealand

Marooned in New Zealand during the pandemic, Heather Markel spent most of her time in Kerikeri. Her hosts introduced her to the tiny yet wonderful town of Opononi and its surroundings. “You’ll feel like you’ve gone back in time,” Markel remarked. There are only three places to eat and one hotel! A beloved dolphin named Opo befriended the townspeople in the 1950s and put Opononi on the map by letting children ride on his back.

What makes Opononi exceptional are all the things to do within an hour’s drive. The town of Omapere has beautiful scenic views of the Tasman Sea. The Koutu Boulders are so large and perfectly round, they’ll make you think dinosaurs used to play marbles. The Wairere Boulders nature reserve has several beautiful walks — some with fairy houses! Tane Mahuta is the oldest kauri tree in New Zealand. At over 2,000 years old, it is so large it boggles the mind. Ngawha Springs, a place mostly known to locals, offers wonderful hot pools.

4. Geeveston, Tasmania

Australia’s most southern town, Geeveston, is about an hour southwest of Tasmania’s capital, Hobart. Located on the Huon River, this fascinating town is home to fewer than 1,500 residents. “In Geeveston, there’s every chance you’ll make two rare sightings,” said Marie Kimber, “platypus in their natural habitat and the aurora australis (the southern lights) in winter.”

Timber is a fundamental feature of the former forestry town’s architecture. Additionally, intricately carved wooden statues of significant locals dot the charming main street.

Geeveston serves as a gateway to Hartz Mountains National Park, one of the Australian island’s 19 national parks. Made up of forests and alpine peaks, the park was shaped by ancient glaciers. It also serves as part of the eastern edge of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. In addition to being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Tasmanian Wilderness is one of Australia’s largest conservation areas.

To get a bird’s-eye view, head to Tahune Airwalk and join the tree canopy from a steel walkway that’s nearly 100 feet up in the air! The final section is a cantilever that sits 164 feet above the Huon River, offering beautiful views of its confluence with the Picton, and a glimpse of the World Heritage Area.

Kimber suggests staying at the quaintly named The Bears Went Over the Mountain bed and breakfast. For an out-of-the-ordinary culinary experience, she recommends Masaaki’s Sushi, where a world-class Japanese chef makes sushi from fresh, locally sourced ingredients. “Be sure to get there early,” warned Kimber, “because he goes surfing once his stock is sold out!”

5. Ballarat, Australia

An hour and a half from Melbourne, Ballarat is one of the most significant Victorian-era gold rush boomtowns. In the 1850s, gold was discovered, transforming the small sheep station into a major settlement. Decades of sustained output is evidenced by the city’s rich heritage architecture.

Pan for gold yourself at the area’s famous theme park and living museum, Sovereign Hill. There is also an informative and entertaining AURA sound and light show. With tickets at A$49 a head, Carol Colborn and her husband opted out and decided to walk the town instead.

Colborn described Ballarat as “a wonderful open museum of heritage buildings,” including Her Majesty’s Theatre Ballarat, Craig’s Royal Hotel, Regent Cinemas movie theater, the old railway station, and the Town Hall. With rooms dedicated to different periods, the Art Gallery of Ballarat “depicts the obvious art shifts,” said Colborn, “from the times when all that was available were imported European art, to the colonizers’ works, to the earliest works of locals, to the modern contemporary art scene.”

6. Sassafras, Australia

Less than an hour’s drive from Melbourne’s central business district, Sassafras is perched near the top of the Dandenong Ranges’ ridgeline. This small village of under 1,000 residents is a popular destination for locals and we can see why.

Miss Marple’s Tearoom offers a great afternoon tea of scones, bread pudding, coffee, and tea. Colborn called the tearoom a “must-visit” and recommends making reservations.

Sassafras boutiques offer everything from antiques to hand-crafted goods. “We brought home a great beechwood top toy for my youngest grandson,” said Colborn, “and still cherish the book we found there, In Your 70s and Still Having Fun!“

When the weather is warm, visitors can picnic at the Village Green, explore the nearby Alfred Nicholas and George Tindale Memorial Gardens, and see the bonsai trees at Chojo Feature Trees plant nursery. Hike the 8-mile Sassafras Creek Trail (temporarily closed) or bike to the SkyHigh Mount Dandenong and restaurant. If it is too chilly for outdoor activities, you can simply drive the serene forest roads.

Related Reading:

1. 18 Unique And Amazing Experiences In Western Australia
2. Sydney Vs. Melbourne: 7 Key Differences To Know Before You Visit
3. 7 Incredibly Romantic Experiences In Australia

If Australia had a national holiday costume, thongs would be part of it.

“Casual” and “relaxed” are two words that describe most Australians. It’s in our DNA to not take ourselves too seriously and to find anything to laugh about. Our sense of relaxed fun carries into the quirky ways we spend Christmas. 

Family and friends are at the core of our festivities, as with the rest of the world. However, we don’t pile too much pomp and ceremony onto that time of the year. As Santa’s reindeer aren’t allowed into Australia due to our quarantine regulations, we use kangaroos to tow his sleigh. 

Christmas Down Under is in summer, after all. We love that we’re not rugged up and confined indoors. We can revel in our climate; consequently, our celebrations invariably spill outdoors into our natural environment.

Here are eight ways Aussies traditionally enjoy the festive season.

1. Outdoor Pageants And Festivals

Australians start to get in the Christmas spirit around the end of November when major cities hold street parades and festivals. Pageants are held in cities and regional areas. Children covered in sunscreen on every inch of exposed skin wear wide-brimmed hats and sit on the edge of the street to enjoy the parade. The float-carrying Santa is eagerly awaited. Decorations in homes and on buildings start to appear from this time.

2. Alfresco Dining When Possible

If we can eat outside, we will. Most houses have an outdoor entertaining area, so many Christmas meals will be enjoyed outside. Australia is a vast brown land, however, the weather can range dramatically from one coast to another. However, if there is an opportunity for people to spend part of Christmas Day outside, then they’ll grab that opportunity. Those living in apartment buildings will head to a park or beach to walk off a hefty lunch and enjoy the fresh air.

3. Lunch Is King

Generally, Christmas Lunch is the main meal of the day. For many, this allows a nap, then a game of backyard cricket before easing into dinner. Invariably, the day can turn into an all-day grazing feast, with lunch leftovers becoming the evening meal. 

Orchards flourish in December, meaning that cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines, and mangos become synonymous with summer and Christmas. A fresh fruit salad with ice cream is served for dessert as an alternative to Christmas pudding and custard. Children snack on stone fruit or watermelon while taking a break from the post-lunch outdoor games. The sweet, sticky juice that runs rivers down their tanned arms is easily washed off with the garden hose.

4. Hot Or Cold Meals

Australia was initially settled by the English after 1788. They brought with them their tradition of a hot roast lunch for Christmas. Despite the temperatures often nearing 100 degrees Fahrenheit, the traditionalists persevered with cooking a hot lunch on Christmas Day. Rudyard Kipling was perhaps right when he penned that “only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.” Although he was referring to India’s oppressive heat, Australia can sometimes feel just as hot.

Things have changed in the modern era and the hot lunch tradition has relaxed. While people in the northern hemisphere may cry, “cold Christmas lunch should be a crime,” common sense had to prevail at some point, and now it is only the die-hards who use their ovens for hours on a hot day. 

Those determined to serve roast turkey and ham mostly cook them on an outdoor barbeque or charcoal grill. Alternatively, a lunch consisting of cold roast turkey, ham, prawns, lobster, and a range of crisp, fresh salads is served. 

5. Prawns On The Menu

Americans call them shrimps, and to Australians, they are prawns. We still cringe when we think of the Australian Tourism Commission advert featuring Paul Hogan (Crocodile Dundee) aimed at attracting Americans to Australia back in 1984. The ad was successful, however — at that time, Australia went from number 78 to 7 on the list of most desired holiday spots. American visitation increased 25 percent each year for the following four years. 

However, Hogan’s words, “I’ll slip another shrimp on the barbie for you,” were just wrong. To Aussies, they are nothing but prawns, and we have four main species that grow wild in our seas.

Yes, we sometimes cook them on the barbecue, but they are mainly purchased pre-cooked for Christmas. Served cold on platters with a bowl of seafood sauce, their vibrant pink-to-orange shells form quite a centerpiece on the table. A finger bowl with lemon and water is kept close for rinsing one’s hands after peeling the prawns.

6. Christmas On The Beach

 Australians love the beach and spending Christmas Day there is a popular choice for many. Ice boxes (or eskies as we call them) are packed full of cold meats, prawns, salads, wine, beer, and soft drinks. Eskies are carried to the beach along with fold-up chairs, tables, and sunshades. 

Bondi Beach in Sydney is a famous beach at any time during summer. In Adelaide, South Australia, there are several beaches you can drive your car on. These are especially popular on Christmas Day and during the holidays, as there is no need to carry all your food, tables, and chairs. Load it all into the car, drive onto the beach, set up with everything on hand, then relax!

7. Holiday Homes

Holiday Homes, known as shacks, are a part of Australian culture, and those lucky enough to own or rent one at Christmas always have a special day. Generally located near a river or a beach, families enrich the festive season with swimming, fishing, kayaking, sand-castle building, and many other water activities.

With all these activities on the agenda, there are many gift ideas for the children. A new kayak, fishing rod, buckets and spades, goggles and snorkels, beach towel, or swimming costume. I use the generic term “swimming costume” as these are called different names depending on where you are in Australia. In Queensland, they’re called togs, and in South Australia, we say bathers. In other parts of the country, they’re called swimmers. Either way, many children get a new swimming costume for Christmas as it’s the time of year when they’re needed the most. 

8. Houseboat Festivities

 Imagine waking up to nothing but birds singing in majestic gum trees and the gentle lapping of water. Houseboating is a fabulous way to travel any time, but it is magic during Christmas in Australia. For some families, this is their yearly tradition. With the ability to motor upstream, moor against a grassy riverbank, and be far away from everyone else, hiring a houseboat at Christmas is a popular way to spend quality time with loved ones. 

Cooling breezes off the river, and with all amenities on hand, a hot or cold lunch can be prepared and served efficiently. The larger houseboats can sleep up to 12 people, so there’s room for two families; even grandma and grandpa.

Forget snow skiing; with a beautiful river at your back door, water skiing is what you’ll see in Australia on Christmas Day. 

Cool And Casual

We all love to buy new outfits to wear on Christmas Day. However, don’t expect too much formality here. It may be a bright summer dress or shorts and a t-shirt, but invariably it will be teamed with sandals or thongs (flip flops). We don’t have a national costume, but if we did, I think thongs would be a part of it.

With our hot summer temperatures, the key is to keep cool. Even those not near the beach or river will find novel ways to stay cool and keep their sense of fun high, from turning on the garden sprinklers to water pistol shoot-outs on the back lawn. People may even fill large tubs of water to sit and chill in — Aussies will make Christmas a fun and relaxed day, sprinkled with a hint of mischief.

Do you have dreams of Tahiti? 

It’s a far-off paradise with warm waters, gentle breezes, year-round sunshine, and beautiful and welcoming people. So of course you do! 

Well, when you finally decide to make those dreams come true and plan a trip to this magical region of the world, you want to make sure to do it right. 

I was invited to sail with Windstar Cruises on its small motor yacht Star Breeze. We spent a week in Tahiti visiting islands for adventures at stunning beaches and in blue waters. Along the way, we learned about the culture and history of this fascinating place. 

This cruise line is celebrating 35 years of offering immersive travel in French Polynesia on its small ships, and I found a number of great things to love about a cruise to Tahiti with Windstar. 

It all starts with the incredible islands you visit. 

1. Moorea 

After sailing away during the night from Papeete, the capital city and home port for cruise ships in Tahiti, we woke up in what appeared to be a Gauguin painting. 

Moorea — with its craggy volcanic mountains and soft inviting beaches — was our first destination, and Star Breeze anchored in gorgeous Cook’s Bay for the day, with Mount Rotui majestically overlooking the ship. 

Windstar’s shore excursion program in Tahiti is packed with adventures and unique cultural experiences. At each island throughout the week, cruisers were faced with an abundance of choices, like snorkel safaris, 4×4 Jeep off-road tours, exploring the waters on wave runners, stingray or dolphin encounters, and beach cookouts. 

We opted for a whale-watching outing in Moorea. This was an afternoon excursion, so we had a morning to enjoy Star Breeze and play at the ship’s marina. We jumped in for a swim, then tried out kayaking, paddle boarding, jumping on the trampoline, and lazing on floating mats. 

We set out for our whale safari after lunch at the ship’s Veranda buffet restaurant. Dr. Michael Poole, who has been living on Moorea and studying whale activity for more than three decades, was our guide, and he brought us right out to a spot where we watched a mother humpback and calf swimming and jumping for about an hour. Whales breed in this part of the world, then migrate to feed in Antarctica. 

We learned so much during our 3-hour trip out toward the coral reef at the edge of the lagoon and had such a wow-worthy time watching these great animals up close. 

2. Bora Bora 

Star Breeze spent two days in Bora Bora, again anchored in a stunning lagoon. 

We found ourselves waking up each morning, looking at the surroundings, and stating, “Oh, just another day in paradise.” 

That’s how it goes in Tahiti, where every spot, while special in its own way, is indescribably beautiful. 

At Bora Bora, which is located northwest of Tahiti and known for its sandy little islets filled with coconut trees (called lotuses), we went off the ship to the city of Vaitape for an “Aqua Safari.” This was a fun helmet dive that sent us 12 feet below the surface, right next to a coral reef, to walk on the sandy bottom and interact with colorful reef fish and a curious sting ray. 

For a helmet dive, guides place an 80-pound helmet over your head to rest on your shoulders and provide all the oxygen needed to breathe and relax while you stroll under the sea. 

Windstar also offers excursions like glass-bottom boat tours, jet tours, snorkeling with stingrays, cultural, discovery tours, and scuba diving introductions in Bora Bora. 

On our second day, we enjoyed a deluxe lagoon tour that was a nice small-group ride out to the edge of the reef on a speed boat. We had a snorkel stop and swim break in clear blue waters, with fresh fruit and rum punches served up while we splashed about. We also were lucky to see a pod of about three dozen dolphins frolicking by the boat on our way back to shore. 

During the evening, we were ferried to a motu (a reef islet) for Windstar’s signature Destination Discovery Event, which was a festive dinner on our own private island. More on this later. 

3. Raiatea And Taha’a 

Windstar visits these sister islands for two days of adventures. 

While at Uturoa, Raiatea, we took the chance to go on an outrigger canoe voyage up the Faaroa River, the lone navigable river in the Society Islands. Meeting our guide, Tihoti, at the cruise pier, our group set off to the small marina to hop in an outrigger for a thrilling ride out to sea, cruising past pearl farms and luxury homes in a secluded bay before we arrived at the mouth of the river. 

Tihoti is an icon in Tahiti. He’s a noted historian, tour guide, and tattoo artist, with his own body filled with art pieces that tell the tales of his ancestry and his island nation. During our tour up the serene river, we were able to stop off to buy bananas, coconut water, and vanilla beans from farmers who set up little shops on the banks of the waterway. Tihoti told us about how much he loves the natural beauty of the islands — “We don’t have snow!” — and did a chant and played a nose flute to show us how he connects with his surroundings and pays homage to all that nature provides. 

The next day, at Taha’a, we went out for a drift snorkeling adventure, with a boat taking us out to the edge of the reef. We walked out into the waters, slipped on our masks and flippers, and glided with the current over a beautiful coral garden. Then, the boat dropped us off at a motu to join our fellow cruisers for a day at the beach and a big barbecue lunch. Colleen and I enjoyed a bit of kayaking around the postcard-perfect little island. 

You definitely can get your fill of all kinds of activity on a Windstar cruise in Tahiti. 

Pro Tip: Take an afternoon nap. We had a nice lay down every afternoon and felt refreshed for the evenings. The days of sunshine and excursions can wear you out. 

4. Destination Discovery Event 

Tahiti is one of two destinations in the world where Windstar features a signature Destination Discovery Event. This is a big off-the-ship bash — a cultural immersion with a dinner and a show at an epic locale. (The other place Windstar holds this is at Ephesus in Turkey.) 

Our party took place on a remote motu while we were visiting Bora Bora. Passengers arrive on a special ferry boat and are greeted with leis and Tahitian music as they stroll ashore on their own private island. We enjoyed some swimming and gazing at the sunset while wandering the sands and listening to the live music performed by a local group playing drums, a ukulele, and guitars. 

After a sumptuous dinner buffet featuring lobster, fish cooked in banana leaves, ceviche with coconut milk, and desserts such as poe, sweet potato cake, and rice pudding, the festivities really gained energy. 

Our group of about 150 (plus Star Breeze crew) was transfixed by a show that included hula dancing, fire dancing, feats of strength (men stripping a coconut with their teeth and bare hands), and fire eating to close out a fantastic celebration of the Tahitian and Polynesian culture. 

5. Spa Time 

Star Breeze is a small ship with big spa energy. Windstar has dedicated a large space to its impressive World Spa facility. The ship features several rooms where you can receive a range of massages, as well as a salon for hair and nail treatments and a big thermal suite area with a sauna, ceramic loungers, relaxation room, and experience shower. There is also a nice locker area with a changing room and shower. 

Cruisers can even book a couple’s “Massage Under the Stars” on an outer deck during the evening. Colleen and I indulged and treated ourselves to a Swedish massage out on the bow of the ship in a serene setting that was pure romantic bliss, complete with a glass of Champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries afterward. 

6. The Star Breeze

A Ship That Fits The Destination 

Star Breeze carries just 312 people max — and on our cruise, the ship only had 150 cruisers. It’s a motor yacht that blends in nicely with the surroundings. Residents we spoke with mentioned that they liked that it’s not one of those huge cruise ships that overwhelm many destinations with thousands of people streaming ashore. 

With the marina at the back of the ship, it is also perfectly equipped to jump right into the waters and marvel at the scenery as you swim or paddle around idyllic bays and lagoons. 

Star Breeze features a lot of outdoor space with natural teak decking. It really is a yachting lifestyle onboard, with a duo of singers performing while cruisers gather at the Star Bar for sunset cocktails. Others like to use the pool and hot tubs or bliss out on the loungers and comfy couches available all over the top of the ship. 

We also loved the chance to dine al fresco for almost every meal at the ship’s Star Grill or Veranda eateries. 

The program also brings on residents from the islands to give talks and share stories about life in French Polynesia. We had an especially fun time one afternoon learning how to make leis and dancing with the Mamas and Papas group, who played Tahitian music in the ship’s Compass Rose lounge. 

Pro Tip: Bring plenty of sunscreen, a good hat and sunglasses, and comfortable beachwear so you can be well protected from the plentiful sunshine. 

7. Delicious Cuisine

Speaking of the ship’s dining, Star Breeze offered an overall outstanding culinary experience, with items offered throughout the day to suit any taste. The main dining room is Amphora, which serves dinner in a pretty space with a more formal dress code. The menu offers gourmet creations using regional ingredients, such as marinated octopus with grapefruit and fennel or pan-roasted Pacific cod. You can also get classics like salmon, chicken, and steak dishes. 

Veranda is the ship’s buffet eatery, open for breakfast and lunch with a wide variety of delicious entrees, salads, and desserts. Made-to-order eggs are cooked perfectly at breakfast, and the chefs work at carving stations or serve up pasta or stir-fry creations as you watch. 

At night, the space becomes Candles, a wonderful steak restaurant where passengers eat outside in the balmy breezes under moonlit skies. 

Windstar has partnerships with renowned chefs for two more restaurants on Star Breeze. 

Star Grill by Steven Raichlen is the al fresco eatery at the top of the ship offering lunches and dinners from a menu that features rotisserie and smoked meats and vegetables. During our Tahiti cruise, we enjoyed bourbon-brined smoked turkey breast, chicken wings, beef brochette, and a variety of fish dishes. You can also get a nice juicy burger or hot dog here. 

The ship also offers Cuadro 44 by Michelin-star chef Anthony Sasso, who has created a Spanish tapas restaurant with a New York flair on Star Breeze. The menu features delights such as grilled octopus and chorizo, paella croquettes, sea bream filets, pork belly, and lamb chops, as well as the most delicious churros with chocolate dipping sauce. 

Star Breeze covers every base, with food, entertainment, cultural enrichment, and shore excursions so you can really choose how to enjoy your time in paradise. 

Kaikōura on the eastern coast of New Zealand’s South Island is famous for its whale-watching cruises, but there’s more to see than whales. Before going on a tour to Kaikōura, I wondered at first what we would be doing for 5 days. By the end of the tour, I had discovered new sights and wildlife and experienced a side of New Zealand life that was unfamiliar to a city dweller like myself.

My trip started with flying to Blenheim airport followed by a nearly 2-hour bus journey south to Kaikōura. The Coastal Pacific train also travels this route. Another option is to fly to Christchurch and take the bus or train north from there. For visitors renting a car, Kaikōura is on the main route between Christchurch and the inter-island ferry port at Picton, so it’s a convenient stopping point on a South Island road trip.

Many visitors stop for a few hours or maybe overnight for a whale-watching tour and then move on, but it’s worth staying a little longer. This gives you more time to explore the natural wonders of the area and enjoy the relaxed way of life in a small New Zealand town.

Note: Thank you to Driftwood Eco Tours for hosting my stay. All opinions are my own.

See Amazing Wildlife

I’d never heard of the Hutton’s Shearwater before, probably because Kaikōura is the only habitat for this endangered species, with nesting areas high up in the mountains.

Albatross Encounters

Our day learning about the Hutton’s shearwater started with an Albatross Encounters boat trip at dawn, when the birds fly from the mountains out over the sea in search of food. It was a misty morning and the weather didn’t seem promising, but the calm conditions turned out to be ideal. Our skipper, Gary, was an expert at spotting birds and knew where to look for them. He soon pointed out a flock of about 200 Hutton’s shearwaters flitting across the surface of the water. While the shearwaters were a little skittish and kept their distance, albatrosses and petrels surrounded the boat. They’re used to getting scraps from fishing boats and eyeballed us from a few feet away, hoping we’d feed them.

Heading back to shore, Gary spotted the distinctive rounded dorsal fins of some Hector’s dolphins. I’d never seen these very rare dolphins before, as they are only found around the coast of the South Island. The boat trip was very rewarding for wildlife lovers, as we saw about 20 species in less than 2 hours.

Puhi Peaks

After breakfast, we set off along a road winding through the mountains to remote Puhi Peaks, home to one of the two remaining breeding colonies of the Hutton’s Shearwater. It was a bumpy ride, fording small mountain streams along the way.

At Puhi Peaks we split into two groups — those who wanted to walk and those who preferred to stay in the 4WD vehicles. I chose to walk, following our guide Wayne through the forest as he pointed out rare native plants such as tiny native orchids. After an energetic uphill walk, we reached an open plateau where we took a break to catch our breath. Across the valley, we could see where the Hutton’s shearwaters burrowed their nests into the steep mountainside.

Over lunch in the woolshed, Puhi Peaks owner Nicky McArthur told us about local efforts to protect the Hutton’s shearwater. A conservation covenant protects the area at Puhi Peaks — where about 3,000 birds nest — and volunteers have established a new nesting area closer to Kaikōura. There is now hope for the future for this endangered species.

Learn About Māori Culture

Ngā Niho Pā

New Zealand’s indigenous Māori people have a long history in Kaikōura. Maurice Manawatu, a local tribal leader, took us on a journey back in time. Today the Ngā Niho Pā site is a quiet green space with a public walking track, but 200 years ago, it was a battlefield when invaders from the north surprised the local Ngāi Tahu tribe. The commanding views of the coast were ideal for spotting enemies, while the earth ramparts which are still there today added extra defense against anyone who managed to slip through and climb up to the village.

Cultural Artworks

Along State Highway 1, cultural artworks at a series of stopping areas explain more of the traditions and history of local Māori. Traditional motifs adorn pavements, seating, and structures, with traditional carved pou, or sculptured figures, at various points along the coast.

The artworks all connect to the history of the area, and according to Maurice, this connection gives them meaning and makes them art, not just a pattern. We visited some of the stopping areas where Maurice explained the local connections to us.

The pavement at Rākautara showed the legend of Māui fishing up the giant fish which became the North Island, while his canoe which became the South Island. The Kaikōura Peninsula was Māui’s seat in the canoe.

At Te Ana Pōuri, a large compass etched into the pavement pointed to significant places such as other tribal areas or wind directions. This was the start of a track used by Māori in the old days to travel to other parts of the South Island.

A series of steps at Paparoa Point shows the genealogy of Tuteurutira, a tribal ancestor, who is represented in the pou at the top of the steps. Maurice told us the story of each of the ancestors named on the steps.

While we were lucky to have Maurice as our guide, each stop has an interpretive panel with information about the significance of the art. There are expansive views north and south along the coast, and on the rocks below, you will probably see seals sunning themselves. Breathing in the sea air is invigorating, making the stopping areas ideal for a break from driving, with some of them having restrooms and kiosks selling coffee and food.

Experience Rural Life

Kaikōura is a farming area, and we visited several farms during our stay, getting an inside look at rural life. Our very first farm visit was at Highfield, where the landmark heritage woolshed is visible from the inland Kaikōura road. It’s one of the largest woolsheds on the South Island and underwent significant restoration after being damaged in the 2015 Kaikōura earthquake.

Northcote Family Farm

The tour had scheduled a visit where Michael Northcote welcomed us to his family farm. He told us that in the early days, all the farms in the area used the shed for shearing, with 60,000 sheep a year shorn there and over 20 shearers working at once. It’s been a community meeting place for over 100 years used for agricultural shows and dances. A few stray dance shoes were found under the floor during the shed’s recent restoration.

Today, only 6,000 sheep a year go through the shed, but it’s still used by the local community for Christmas carols. The holding pens and shearing stalls remain in place and the earthy aroma of thousands of sheep lingers in this grand reminder of early farming days.

Medina

On another day, we visited David and Sally Handyside at Medina where, as well as farming sheep and cattle, they have hosted walkers for 26 years. The Kaikōura Coast Track goes across their farm and a neighboring farm, with accommodation provided at farm huts. We walked down to a private beach where the first day’s walk along the track ends. There were amazing views of the rugged cliffs along the coast, but the ocean wind felt strong as we walked along the beach so we were happy to shelter in a nearby hut for a morning tea with home-baked muffins and cookies. In keeping with the Handysides’ passion for the environment they live in, the hut was built over the years from recycled materials.

The Handysides have protected giant native trees on their farm with a QEII covenanted conservation area. After morning tea, we headed up to a grassy cliff top with a spectacular view up and down the coast to start our walk. Leaving the sunshine behind, we entered the shade of the conservation area where kahikatea, mataī, and tōtara trees towered above us, forming a dense canopy overhead. The trunks of the largest trees were so thick that it took six people to encircle them, fingertips touching. Thanks to the Handysides’ love of the land, this forest area will be preserved in perpetuity.

The Whare

After a morning exploring the natural heritage of this coastal farm, we ate lunch in The Whare, a vintage farm hut. It once housed farm workers, but with changing times, it’s now used to accommodate walkers.

Pro Tip: Kaikōura is renowned for its seafood. Whether you want to dine in a restaurant or buy some takeout to eat on the beach, seafood is available everywhere. Popular choices are blue cod and chips or lobster, which New Zealanders call crayfish.

I sat motionless waiting for a small, teddy bearlike marsupial to investigate the fallen rubber fig fruits that littered the ground around me. After about 15 minutes, a curious female ventured over, scooping up berries and popping them into her mouth. As if noticing a mysterious new statue, she turned, placed her tiny, taloned front paws on the edge of my sneaker, and looked up at me, lips smacking.

My close encounter with the animal kind, on Rottnest Island, lasted only a few seconds and was just one of the memorable moments of my trip to Western Australia (WA), which was sponsored by the region’s tourism board. The largest of the country’s six states, WA is also the least known to American tourists. Here is one of the world’s 36 biodiversity hotspots. You don’t have to look far for unforgettable experiences.

Western Australia is teeming with outdoor recreation and plenty of opportunities to glimpse endemic wildlife in its 100 national parks, 3,500 beaches, and 17 marine parks. The state also has rich cultural activities and a lively food and drink scene. Here’s a guide to 25 unique and amazing experiences you can have in Western Australia.

Pro Tip: When booking a trip to Australia, remember that its seasons are opposite to ours. Spring runs from September through November, summer is from December through February, fall takes place in March through May, and June through August marks winter.

1. Mullaloo Beach 

Recognize the hard truth that you can’t see every sandy shore, then schedule a trip to Mullaloo Beach, about 20 minutes northwest of Perth. One of the region’s more popular and easiest-to-access beaches, it features a strip of pristine white sand juxtaposed against turquoise water. 

2. Smiths Beach

If dramatic surfing — and great surfing — are more your speed, head to Smiths Beach in Yallingup. It’s a favorite among surfers admiring the crash of the swells and for photographing candy-colored sunrises.

3. Rottnest Island

About 11 miles off the coast of WA and accessible by ferry, you’ll find Rottnest Island. A stunning getaway from the mainland with lots of beaches, a lighthouse, and a “downtown” where you can eat and sip. Little Salmon Bay, one of 20 bays and 63 beaches on the island, is beloved for its calm waters — perfect for swimming and snorkeling among tropical fish swept in on the warm Leeuwin Current and vibrant coral reefs about 300 feet offshore. 

Rottnest is known for its population of quokkas, or short-tailed scrub wallabies. Although quokkas once roamed around the WA mainland, very few exist there today. The largest population — somewhere between 10,000 and 12,000 — lives on Rottnest Island, 

While celebrities helped bring needed attention to the threatened species with quokka selfies, it’s both unethical and illegal — and could incur fines from a couple hundred to tens of thousands of dollars — to pet, otherwise touch or interfere with, or feed the animals. Keep your distance and ask a friend to snap your picture rather than trying to get close enough for a selfie.

4. Cape To Cape Track

The 75-mile Cape to Cape Track spans the southwestern coast from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin. Multi-day hikes with camping allow for a fuller experience; Cape to Cape Explorer Tours will handle the logistics for you, as well as provide local guides who are knowledgeable about the region’s geology and native plant species.

Day treks along the Cape to Cape Track are also possible. We walked a lovely easy-to-moderate section that starts above Smiths Beach. The trail winds through extraterrestrial-looking red rocks before plunging into a thick forest canopy and includes several scenic overlooks.

5. Gloucester National Park

In Pemberton’s Gloucester National Park, take one of five bushwalking or mountain biking trails — from a half mile to 7.5 miles long — through a forest of karri trees, an iconic Australian species that can grow over 300 feet tall. If you’re in a daring mood, climb the 153 iron pegs to the top of the 173-foot Gloucester Tree, which once served as a fire lookout. 

6. Dryandra Woodland National Park

Animal lovers should make a special stop at Dryandra Woodland National Park in Dryandra, about two hours south of Perth. The park was created to conserve a variety of threatened native species, which are protected from predators like feral cats. Book a guided night tour of the Barna Mia sanctuary within the park to glimpse elusive nocturnal species like the bunny-eared bilby, gerbil-like woylie, and the chubby-cheeked boodie.

During the day, look for impossible cuteness like the numbat (a striped-and-spotted anteater about the size of a squirrel), tammar wallaby (a sort of shrunken kangaroo), tawny frogmouth (a squat, dome-headed bird that camouflages itself against tree bark), and the echidna (a long-snouted, quill-covered mammal that looks like a cross between an anteater and a hedgehog).

7. Busselton Jetty

For a tamer nature experience, head to Busselton and the 1.2-mile Busselton Jetty, the longest timber-framed water structure in the southern hemisphere. Walk or take the quaint, old-timey train to the end of the jetty. Then take the stairs or elevator to the 360-degree underwater observatory. Here, 26 feet below the surface, you can watch 300 species of marine life, including bright tropical fish, weave through the artificial reef created by the jetty’s piles. 

8. Margaret River

This slice of Down Under is best known for the Margaret River, its famous wine-producing region. One of the world’s youngest and brightest grape producers, Margaret River is the location of Australian pioneers like Vasse Felix, Cullen, and Voyager Estate. All three make a range of flavorful wines, especially chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and the country’s marquee vino, shiraz.

For a unique experience, head to Leeuwin Estate. Visit their gallery of original label art then head up to the dining room for a leisurely lunch paired with Leeuwin’s wines. Of the four inventive courses served at our meal, the scallop crudo with horseradish, kohlrabi, and elderflower, served with Leeuwin’s 2021 Art Series Riesling, was my favorite.

9. Fremantle Prison

WA boasts museums dedicated to everything from maritime history and shipwrecks to art. Fremantle Prison, originally built to house convicts exiled from England, is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Touring its cellblocks, perimeter walls, and tunnels offers a poignant perspective into how prisoners were treated. The original art painted on some of the cells and yard walls by residents is especially fascinating.

10. WA Museum Boola Bardip

In the Perth Cultural Centre, the recently opened WA Museum Boola Bardip — “many stories” in Wadjuk Nyoongar, the language of the Aboriginal peoples who settled the land — features eight permanent galleries plus temporary exhibition space. The indigenous hall, developed to reflect the perspectives of dozens of groups around the region, is particularly noteworthy. I found myself transfixed by the dreaming stories of the Ngarda-Ngarli.

11. Go Cultural Aboriginal Tours

Another highlight from my trip was a tour of Kings Park in Perth with Walter and Meg McGuire of Go Cultural Aboriginal Tours and Experiences. Walter and Meg are Nyoongar and Kungarakan, respectively. They told us a wealth of stories from, and what the land signifies to, their people.

Walter assigned each of us the name of an animal guide. Mine was koolbardi, the Western magpie, thanks to our shared preference for rising with the dawn. Later in the tour, as we sat in a semicircle in the grass learning about traditional wooden tools, the magpies began to gather. First one and then an entire group, cocking their heads, and listening to Walter. He turned and addressed the birds in his native language. They drew closer, seemingly spellbound. Although it happened in front of the group, it felt like the moment was meant for me.

12. Bushfood Experiences

Although I didn’t have an opportunity to book one, I’ve heard rave reviews of Dale Tilbrook’s bush food experiences. She’ll guide you through tastings of a variety of wild foods, like quandong, sandalwood nuts, and native lime. Tilbrook also discusses the medicinal properties of plants and spices. Snap a picture with the local emus, then sit down to sweet and savory dishes, like bush tucker pie.

13. Twilight Didgeridoo Cave Tours

Koomal Dreaming offers private twilight tours of Ngilgi Cave, a 128-foot-deep cavern full of stalagmites and stalactites. The tour is led by a cultural custodian of the Wadandi people who introduces you to the dreaming spirits that have long been a part of the lives of the Wadandi and Bibbulman tribes. Pause, deep inside the earth, to listen to the playing of a didgeridoo. 

14. Truffle Hill

Did you know that Western Australia is one of the world’s most successful cultivators of superior Périgord truffles? Neither did I until I visited Manjimup, about 1.5 hours from Margaret River. Although the loamy soil and climate have something to do with it, no one is exactly sure why the region has such alchemical fungus-growing qualities.

However, mine is not to question. Mine is to find and taste. That’s exactly what I did at Truffle Hill, where I went on a guided fungus search-and-rescue mission with master hunter Adrien Mielke and Armani the truffle-sniffing black Labrador. I even got to excavate one of the earthy gems myself, but sadly, I was not allowed to keep it. To be fair, the golf-ball-size specimen probably retailed for over $100.

15. Lamont’s Restaurant 

Owned by top chef Kate Lamont, this restaurant, at Smiths Beach Resort, is a farm-to-table delight. Lamont makes use of native foods like wattleseed, macadamia nuts, and Kakadu plum in her savory appetizers and entrees. Save room for the sky-high pavlova topped with a juicy passionfruit and banana compote and drizzled with crème anglaise.

16. Ampersand Estates

Soon after landing in WA, I knew I’d met my cocktail-sipping compatriots. Aussies love spirits, especially gin, which is experiencing a renaissance in the region. Lots of small-batch producers have sprung up, among them Rainfall Distillery, located on the vineyard property of Ampersand Estates. Ampersand also offers tastings of their young, crowd-pleasing wines; bespoke picnics featuring local cheeses, charcuterie, and jams; and luxury accommodations in their newly renovated farmhouses.

17. Gage Roads 

The region has several prolific craft breweries. The new Gage Roads, in a light, bright, and industrial-chic warehouse in Fremantle, is led by a rare female brewmaster. Tour the facility then sit down to a tasting and a casual lunch of pizza, fish and chips, oysters, or tacos. 

18. Shelter Brewing

Over in Busselton, lively, collegial Shelter Brewing serves refreshing summer sours, pale ales, and more. Their food game — featuring juicy burgers, handmade pizzas, and even poké bowls — is strong. If you’re a dessert aficionado like me, get the choc tops, a cone of mint ice cream covered in a hard chocolate shell, and served alongside the oddly delicious triple-dip combination of chocolate sauce, popcorn, and M&Ms.

Wine tourism has been a growing and developing market in Australia for some time. With over 60 wine regions producing more than 100 different grape varieties, there are many avenues for wine experiences in Australia.

However, like many other countries, Australia couldn’t escape the hardships and downturn in tourism due to the global pandemic. Before COVID-19, tourists to Australia from the U.S. ranked third highest. The top five reasons to visit Australia were: safety and security, nature and wildlife, food and wine, value for money, and friendly and welcoming.

Since the pandemic, wine tourism in Australia has picked itself up, dusted itself off, and is back to providing the best in memorable food and wine experiences. The wine region of McLaren Vale is a testament to this and ticks all the boxes for those five reasons to visit.

The McLaren Vale Wine Region

The state of South Australia covers 380 square miles, about the same combined area as Texas and New Mexico. It is home to three world-renowned wine regions, the Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, and McLaren Vale, all within an hour’s drive of Adelaide, the capital city.

The McLaren Vale Wine Region is an easy 45-minute drive south of Adelaide. The area is known for its complex geology, with ancient soils comprising five different geological types ranging from 10,000 to 550 million years old, making grape growing diverse here.

The region is best known for shiraz but also excels in cabernet sauvignon and grenache production. With a climate to mirror the Mediterranean and four distinct seasons, Spanish and Italian varieties add a further element of tasting discovery, with Fiano, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and tempranillo thriving.

South Australia’s viticultural origins began in McLaren Vale. Since the region lacks pests such as grape phylloxera (a tiny, yellow, aphid-like insect that feeds on the roots of vines), some of the world’s oldest plantings can be seen here. Frost is rarely a problem with many vineyards less than six miles from the coast. The town of McLaren Vale has a population of around 4,000 people. Despite its small country town feel, the region punches above its weight delivering wine, cuisine, beaches, and landscapes equal to anywhere in the world. However, if you want a great view of the coastal vineyards, I suggest you take a scenic flight in a Waco Biplane.

The Waco Biplane

WACO is the Weaver Aircraft Company of Ohio and was founded by five passionate aviators in 1919. A biplane is a fixed-wing aircraft with two main wings stacked above each other. How are an American aircraft manufacturer and a vintage plane connected to the coastal vineyards of South Australia?

Let me introduce you to the passion of Martyn and Gaylene Smith of Adelaide Biplanes. Martyn learned to fly while living in the United Kingdom. He soon joined Gaylene in her worldwide search. They discovered a Waco biplane for sale in Greensboro, North Carolina. 

Martyn flew to the states to look her over. She was a modern-day reincarnation of a classic 1935 design of a sports biplane. It took a few months to reassemble the plane after her arrival, which was watched from the dock by Martin and Gaylene. She was issued a Certificate of Airworthiness and became the first in their fleet of planes now based at Aldinga Airfield, on the edge of the McLaren Vale Wine Region.

An Exciting Flight Over Coastal Vineyards

Visitors to the region can be a part of this fascinating story while taking in views of the spectacular coastline and undulating vineyards bounded by a gentle mountain range. The Waco biplane is unique in its ability to carry two passengers in the roomy front cockpit while the pilot takes care of the tricky bits behind you.

All bookings must be made by contacting Adelaide Biplanes directly due to the coordination required with other flights. The price for two passengers is AUD 450 for 30 minutes in the aircraft, including 20 airborne minutes.

Thrill seekers may choose a joy flight including aerobatics in the Great Lakes Biplane; a plane Martyn says flies just as well upside down as it does the right way up. Gulp! I’m not sure I relate well to the words “joy” and “aerobatics” in one sentence, but plenty of people do! That experience is for those who want to see the coast and vineyards from another angle. The cost for one person for this 20-minute adrenalin fix is AUD 400.

A visit to Adelaide Biplanes is still recommended, even if your flying style consists solely of a pressurized cabin with no hair out of place and a stewardess bringing you food and drinks. Here they will bring you way-better-than-airline food and drinks in a quirky setting. As many of their aircraft are vintage, the décor of the office and kitchen reflects that. One visitor was heard saying, “Oh my God, I feel like I’ve just stepped into a 1950s movie.” 

Pro Tip: McLaren Vale’s collaborative and generous nature, a unique combination of world-class wines and produce, both on the farm and the plate, with a beach lifestyle, ensures this region truly offers a unique, welcoming experience. The beaches are best enjoyed from November to March, but any time is a good time to savor the food and wine!

To book accommodation and tours in the area, click here. 

Adelaide Biplanes are located at the Aldinga Airfield, a 15-minute drive through vineyards from McLaren Vale to Colville Road, Aldinga. The flight office and kitchen are open daily from 10 a.m to 4 p.m. All contact details are on their website.

The history of indigenous Australians dates back 65,000 years. In addition to protein from kangaroos, emus, turtles, and fish, they ate a large variety of plant foods such as fruits, nuts, roots, vegetables, grasses, and seeds.

Today, chefs are looking more to native ingredients for culinary inspiration. They enjoy showcasing these exceptional ingredients unique to Australia and often offer them alongside award-winning wines. Gemtree Wines in McLaren Vale, forty minutes south of Adelaide, South Australia, have gardens of edible native plants. They use these as a special complement to their organic and biodynamic wine tastings.

Here are eight native elements that are making an impact on modern Australian menus.

1. Muntries

Muntries, also known as native cranberries or emu apples, grow on low shrubs on the South Coast of Australia. The berries are green with a ripe red tinge and have a sweet and spicy apple flavor. With four times the antioxidant properties of blueberries, the fruit can be eaten fresh or used instead of apples or sultanas to make jam, chutney, sweet and savory sauces, and even wine. 

2. Finger Lime

Imagine delicate pearls resembling caviar that, when placed in your mouth, are bursting with a sour and tart tang. The fruit of the finger lime measures up to four inches and, not surprisingly, resembles the shape of a finger. It grows naturally in the subtropical rainforest along the border of South East Queensland and New South Wales on Australia’s east coast. The flesh of the fruit has a variety of colors from yellow, green, and pink, each with a distinctive supercharged lime flavor.

It makes for an excellent garnish for seafood when used fresh, and the tangy pearls delight in sauces, jams, and jellies. Finger limes are high in folate, potassium, vitamin E, and vitamin C. They have been used for their medicinal properties by indigenous Australians for thousands of years. Today they appear in salads, seafood, pasta, curries, sushi, desserts, and cocktails.

3. Wattleseed

The seed of the Acacia tree, known as wattleseed, has been a staple food for indigenous Australians for thousands of years as a rich source of protein, fiber, and carbohydrates. The Aboriginal people used wattleseed to make a type of flour they mixed with water and baked “cakes” using hot coals and rocks. 

The Acacia grows throughout most of Australia, but trees used for procuring wattleseed are mainly in the Northern Territory and South Australia.

Today, the taste and aroma of roasted coffee grounds, sweet spice, chocolate, and raisins make wattleseed a popular complement to modern Australian cuisine and beverages. With a low glycemic index, wattleseed is suitable for people with diabetes; perhaps not when served as wattleseed ice cream!

4. Saltbush

Saltbush is a long-living, sprawling, and gray-blue shrub growing in Australia’s dry and arid lands. It is an ideal food source for grazing sheep due to its tolerance to drought. There are also rich proteins and natural minerals. The lamb’s flesh has a fuller flavor, although the meat is leaner.

However, saltbush is now finding its way into fine dining kitchens where the fleshy leaves with a salty, herbal flavor are very versatile. While popular in salads, they also provide a bed for roasting meats (especially lamb). Leaves can be dried and used as a garnish, a seasoning, or to add flavor to the butter.

5. Warrigal Greens

 When Englishman Captain Cook discovered the East Coast of Australia in 1770, he needed to find a way to combat the ever-increasing incidence of scurvy among his ship’s crew of 70. He encouraged them to eat the warrigal greens they found growing in saline soil along the coast. Many of the nation’s first settlers and convicts owe their life to this unassuming leafy plant. Thankfully they soon worked out that you need to blanch the leaves before eating to remove the oxalates that can have adverse effects. 

With a mild taste similar to spinach, the leaves of warrigal greens appear in recipes where spinach, chard, or Asian greens work well. The sturdy, fleshy leaves are great in stir fries as they handle heat well and hold their form. They are a tasty alternative to basil when making pesto.

• Try It With: Free-range chicken, warrigal greens, sweet potato, and mustard jus 
• Wine Pairing: Chardonnay

6. Pepperberry/Pepperleaf

Native to the woodlands and cool temperate rainforests of southeastern Australia, the mountain pepper is a bushy, medium to tall plant. Indigenous Australians used it to flavor their food and as traditional medicine for skin disorders, colic, and stomach ache. The leaves, stems, and berries have an aromatic, peppery taste and produce three times the antioxidants of blueberries. 

In spring, the shrub produces creamy white flowers that turn into red berries during autumn. The flowers can be used fresh in salads or as a pretty, peppery garnish. The berries turn black as they ripen and harvesting occurs between March and May. Dried berries make a pungent native substitute for black pepper. The leaves are best picked before the plant flowers and are used fresh or dried to add a spicy flavor to curries, cheese, salad dressings, and sauces. They develop a subtler pepper flavor when cooked.

7. Lemon Myrtle

Lemon myrtle is a beautiful Australian shrub growing naturally in the New South Wales and Queensland coastal areas. It boasts an intensely citrus fragrance and flavor. It is Australia’s most popular herb. Indigenous Australians used lemon myrtle for 40,000 years to flavor fish dishes and to treat headaches by crushing and inhaling the leaves.

Today, the fresh and zesty leaves are used in teas, dressings, ice creams, dips, cakes, biscuits, and meat dishes. The essential oil distilled from the leaves has antifungal and antibacterial properties. When added to hand creams and soaps, the fresh lemony scent makes the products a popular souvenir for tourists. 

Lemon myrtle is impacting Australian fine dining menus as an accompaniment to seafood, cheese, and sorbets.

8. Davidson Plum

Australia’s first people must have had resilient taste buds because they had Davidson plums as fresh fruit. The plums are extremely low in sugar, resulting in a mouth-puckering sharp taste. However, they have so many nutrients and antioxidants that they have been deemed a superfood.

The deep crimson-colored fruit grows on the trunks and branches of a subtropical tree. It attracts native animals such as tree kangaroos. Yes, there is such a thing! As with some Australian endemic trees, the seeds will only germinate once they’ve passed through an animal’s digestive tract. 

A new wave of chefs is embracing the fruit’s sour power as beyond the acidity lies aromas of stewed rhubarb, musk, rose petals, and the earthiness of beets. Dedicated orchards are in place to meet the growing demand for Davidson plums.

With the addition of sugar, they are made into jam or a rich sauce to serve with game meat. It can be gently roasted with a bit of orange zest and vanilla and added to yogurt for a decadent breakfast. The syrup is often added to gin and tonic to make a refreshing summer cocktail.

Although being a young country first settled by the English in 1788, Australia is now a multicultural nation. After World War II, the country accepted more than 2 million migrants and displaced people from Europe, and the local cuisine became influenced by other countries. In recent years, native animals and vegetation have returned to local cuisine despite thriving here for thousands of years. They are making a delicious and sustainable impact on modern dinner tables.

For many years, I traveled to New Zealand regularly to spend time with my then-husband’s family. I hadn’t been back since 2017 when I booked a trip to visit this summer when COVID restrictions were lifted. In July 2020, my dual-citizen son AJ decided to get out of Miami and move to Auckland, where he’s spent the past two and a half years embracing his inner Kiwi.

I enjoyed hearing how he was getting to know the city in ways that differed greatly from our many family visits over the years and couldn’t wait to see things through his eyes. So in late July of 2022, I returned to Auckland eager to revisit my favorite places I had explored as a visitor while seeing others through the eyes of the local my son had become.

I discovered quickly that not everything is fully back online, but for the most part, life has returned to normal. If a trip to New Zealand has been on your bucket list, now might be a great time to go and take advantage of a less crowded landscape. According to Rene De Monchy, CEO of Tourism New Zealand, it could take up to 3 years before international tourism truly returns to pre-COVID levels.

1. Head To Waitemata Harbour — The Heart Of Auckland’s Waterfront For Dining And Shopping

Located in the heart of Auckland’s downtown waterfront, Viaduct Harbour — or as Kiwis refer to it “the Viaduct” — was redeveloped for the 2000 defense of the America’s Cup sailing competition. International yachting’s biggest global event helped to shine the spotlight on the tiny island nation and establish the waterfront as a welcoming destination for locals and tourists.

At the Viaduct, enjoy a stroll around the Marina checking out the mega-yachts. Grab a local brew on the terrace at Coop’s Corner or settle into a prime seat on Soul Bistro’s plant-filled terrace and enjoy a glorious sunset view along with award-winning cuisine.

The waterfront footprint has expanded to include more reclaimed neighborhoods — Wynyard Quarter to the north and Britomart to the south. Wynyard has become a live/work neighborhood with plenty of restaurants, parks, and playgrounds. The ASB Waterfront Theatre — home to the Auckland Theatre Group and groundbreaking theatre, dance, and film — is there along with Auckland’s first Park Hyatt Hotel and dining options ranging from fast casual to more upmarket fare.

We had a cozy lunch the day I arrived in Auckland at a lovely French bistro called Wander, sharing truffle fries and a magnificent seafood platter complete with Te Matuku oysters from nearby Waiheke Island, smoked Trevally rillettes, clams, local ceviche, and more, washed down with delicious Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. 

Another great Wynyard option is The Auckland Fish Market, which has been open since 1904 and was modernized in 2018. Enjoy fresh-from-the-waters seafood from one of the fishmongers or restaurants onsite, or sign up for a class at the cooking school.

Dodging raindrops, we headed south to Britomart, the new nine-block development that lays claim to Auckland’s first five Green Star hotel, The Hotel Britomart, which opened in June 2020. Here you will find outposts of New Zealand’s top designers as well as high-end international brands like Chanel and Tiffany & Co., along with quirky and creative home furnishings and design stores. Great dining is everywhere, from Kingi for sustainable local seafood at the Hotel Britomart to Amano for rustic Italian.

2. Explore Auckland’s West Coast Beaches

Regardless of the season, anyone visiting Auckland should take time to visit the spectacular Auckland’s West Coast beaches including Piha, Karekare, Murawai, Anawhata, and the lesser-known Te Henga (Bethells). Located less than an hour from downtown Auckland, these rugged, wild black sand beaches at the foot of Waitakere Ranges Regional Park attract surfers, locals, and tourists — especially in summer.

Muriwai is home to an entertaining gannet colony, active from August-March; about 1,200 pairs of gannets nest there each year. Karekare and Piha gained prominence after being featured in Jane Campion’s Oscar award-winning film The Piano, and Karekare Falls is well worth the short, easily navigated 5-minute walk from the car park for its breathtaking views.

Anawhata is usually very uncrowded due to the 20-minute walk or so it takes to access it, but it’s an easy path down to the beach if you crave isolation; it’s a bit more of an upward climb when it’s time to go, so take care if mobility is limited.

3. Climb A Hill

Considered the most volcanic city in the world with roughly 50 dormant volcanoes located in its vicinity, Auckland’s youngest volcano is Rangitoto, an island visible from much of the city that last erupted about 600 years ago. Rangitoto is a popular tourist destination that can be reached by ferry from downtown Auckland in under half an hour. It’s about an hour’s climb to the summit with amazing views with lava caves to explore on the way. Rangitoto is also home to the world’s largest Pohutukawa (known as the New Zealand Christmas tree) forest.

You don’t have to leave the mainland though; there are several volcanic craters throughout Auckland with well-marked paths to guide you along. One of the first things I always do upon arriving in Auckland as the sun rises is to find a hill to climb and take in the city views. This time it was Maungawhau (Mount Eden), not far from my son’s Sandringham flat. Auckland’s tallest volcano, it was once the site of a Māori pa (or fortified settlement). You can wander up from the bottom or drive up and park close to the top where there’s a new boardwalk perfect for enjoying amazing 360-degree views of Auckland.

The summit of Maungakiekie (One Tree Hill) overlooks Cornwall Park’s grazing sheep and also has great Māori history, while Maungauika (North Head) in Devonport, with sweeping views over the harbor, became a military installation in the 19^th century and still hosts a rare 19th-century cannon, an 8-inch disappearing gun.

4. Eat And Drink At Ponsonby Central

Auckland is home to many dining and shopping destinations, but Ponsonby Central — located in the heart of one of Auckland’s most vibrant neighborhoods — is one of the best. With over 20 eateries as well as shops and bars, there’s an emphasis on international cuisine with something for everyone. You could spend a week dining in a different restaurant every night here and not get bored.

We chose Gaja, a Korean kitchen and bar which was packed on a Thursday winter’s night, and enjoyed sharing a variety of spicy small plates including deep-fried eggplant in a sticky gouchang glaze topped with yogurt and lemon and the aptly named yum yum chicken. Other dining options include Chinese, Japanese, Turkish, Venezuelan, Italian, French, and even American hot dogs and hamburgers.

5. Attend A Rugby Match At Eden Park

New Zealand’s national rugby union team, the All Blacks, have achieved brand status on par with the Dallas Cowboys and play around the world all year, but it’s easy to attend rugby matches for local teams, including the Blues who play at Eden Park. If you’re in Auckland during the season (dates have not yet been announced for the 2023 Super Rugby season) what a wonderful way to spend an afternoon outside with a bunch of amiable and passionate sports fans in the heart of the rugby world.

6. Head To The Puhoi Pub Hotel And Stables And Have A Pint

I’ve probably visited the Puhoi Pub every time I’ve traveled to Auckland, starting in 1989. Despite a new sign and a fresh coat of paint, I was thrilled to discover on this last visit that it’s still a great authentic Kiwi pub in a bucolic setting. About half an hour north of Auckland, it’s an easy escape to the countryside. Inside, the walls and ceilings are covered in dollar bills, memorabilia, and witty “jokes.” In the outdoor garden setting, there’s plenty of seating for everyone from families to pensioners to bikers to enjoy fish and chips and a pint or two.

This time around, we decided to do a walk up a trail that led to views of the surrounding farmland just behind the pub and felt we had earned our post-hike beer. There’s also a cheese factory/store which was not yet re-opened as of August 2022, but the cheese is excellent and is sold in markets in Auckland.

The Puhoi Town Library, built in 1913 and serving many roles before being designated a library, attracts about 6,000 visitors a year despite limited opening hours. The tiny space holds 4,500 books and many for sale. There’s a possibility that the rest of the world has discovered Puhoi, but I’m still hopeful that’s not necessarily the case as it may factor into my retirement plans!

7. Wine Tasting On Waiheke Island

If you enjoy food and wine, Waiheke Island is an absolute must. The second largest island in the Hauraki Gulf (after Great Barrier Island), Waiheke is home to about 30 boutique wineries as well as award-winning restaurants, beautiful beaches, and scenic walks. Only a 40-minute ferry ride from downtown Auckland, it’s easy to just plan a day trip there but there’s also plenty of accommodation if you choose to stay longer. Once on land, it’s fairly easy to get around on the hop-on/hop-off bus, on the regular bus service, or by rental car.

Wineries are spread out throughout the island, and many have amazing restaurants attached to them with star chefs offering winery lunches and dinners, including the expensive but worth-it Mudbrick Vineyard and Restaurant. Don’t forget to enjoy some of the local Te Matuku oysters while on the island. The Oyster Inn, an award-winning beachside bistro is an excellent choice; alternately, the restaurant at the Batch Winery is in a beautiful setting and has a great menu.

Pro Tip: In the winter, some restaurants and wineries have limited hours, and the Hop-On Hop-Off Explorer Bus only operates Friday through Sunday. Make sure you make reservations and plans before you get on the ferry.

I was in Auckland during the heart of New Zealand winter and was prepared for the weather typical for that time — cold and rainy. Lucky me, I had very little rain during my and temperatures were pretty much in the 50s and 60s Fahrenheit. I was able to really get out and enjoy so much in that time.

From trivia nights at neighborhood pubs to strolling through the many parks and greenspaces throughout the city to thrifting on K Road, there’s so much more I could tell you about enjoying Auckland from a local’s perspective. But I believe if you do enjoy some of the activities I’ve outlined here, you’ll get a taste of the real Auckland and understand why it’s been one of my favorite cities to visit — for more than 30 years.

Why Auckland?

Auckland is not often categorized as one of the world’s great cities, like Paris or London, or for that matter, Sydney. Most travelers to New Zealand deplane in Auckland but head off quickly to explore what the country is known for — beautiful beaches, mountains, lakes, and stunning vistas. But I once again found Auckland to be a thriving, multicultural mecca, with Māori and Pacific culture stronger than ever, a thriving culinary and arts scene, great restaurants and café culture, and the opportunity to commune with nature while enjoying city life.

I would recommend giving yourself at the very least a few days to acclimate after what has most likely been a long flight and a significant time change and enjoy New Zealand’s most populous city before heading off to experience the country’s undeniable rural appeal.

Fun Fact

As a result of the Treaty of Waitangi Settlement, in recent years Māori names have been restored to many significant sites throughout New Zealand. You will see dual names in many places, the original in the language of the indigenous Māori, and the English names given by settlers. Auckland is Tāmaki Makaurau, meaning “Tāmaki desired by many,” in reference to the desirability of its natural resources and prime location.

Getting There

From the United States, direct flights are available to Auckland from Los Angeles, Houston, San Francisco, and Honolulu. As of September 2022, Air New Zealand has launched non-stop service from New York. Seasonal flights from Chicago and Dallas may be coming back online this year as the country’s tourism industry struggles to revive. On my trip in August 2022, Auckland International Airport seemed like a ghost town, with many restaurants and shops still closed and the duty-free shop understocked, but I imagine that will change as international travel resumes.

Getting Around

If you plan on staying in and focusing on the CBD, and most tourism guides will assure you there’s plenty to do and see from there, there’s no need to rent a car. Walking is great — if a bit hilly — and rideshares like Uber are easy enough, but if you want to really explore and only have a few days, it’s a great idea to rent a car. That way you can easily access the North Shore or West Coast beaches. One of the best things about Auckland is how quickly you can get out of the city — great nature walks and stunning beaches are less than an hour away from downtown.

While visiting my son in Auckland once the restrictions on travel in place since the COVID epidemic started were lifted, we discussed getting out of town for a few days. He claimed to have never been to Napier until I produced an adorable photo of him at age 8 hugging Gordon the baby penguin at the now-closed Marineland Park.

Forgotten memories aside, Napier always seems like a good idea for a visit. Not only does it serve as a convenient base for exploring Hawke’s Bay, the food and wine capital of New Zealand, but the seaside Art Deco city also has a beautiful waterfront, lots of green space, and a charming downtown that feels like a movie set, thanks to the beautifully preserved Art Deco buildings.

Getting To Hawke’s Bay

Hawke’s Bay, the second largest wine-producing region in New Zealand, is home to more than 300 vineyards, over 70 wineries, and more than 30 cellar doors. It’s easily reached from all parts of the North Island. On my recent visit, we drove down from Auckland — about a 5-hour trip by car. We stopped in Taupo, about 3 hours from Auckland, for lunch and a walk to break up the driving. This popular summer holiday destination for New Zealanders is home to Lake Taupo, the largest lake by surface area in New Zealand, and like so much of the country, atop a volcano.

From Taupo, the drive to Napier is only another 90 minutes or so. The lovely city is easily navigated and has a great central location with lots of cafes, bars, and restaurants from which to check out the rest of Hawke’s Bay. Napier does have an airport with regularly scheduled flights from all over the country if you’re not interested in driving, but for me, much of the joy of being in New Zealand is in the journey — taking time to enjoy the beautiful scenery and small towns one discovers along the way to wherever they are headed.

1. The Art Deco City Of Napier

After a massive earthquake rocked the region in 1931 and destroyed the city, Napier was rebuilt in the architectural style of the times. The result? One of the world’s best-preserved examples of Art Deco architecture. We booked our accommodation through Airbnb, mainly for its great location about two blocks from Marine Parade and the fact that the rental came with bicycles that we planned to use to cruise through the pleasantly flat (for New Zealand) town.

Restaurants

Our gracious host left us a list of excellent restaurant recommendations, and we set out on our first night for Hunger Monger Seafood, a restaurant that prides itself on serving freshly caught fish from Hawke’s Bay and surrounding environs. Not a morsel of meat can be found anywhere on the menu, so if you are traveling with carnivores, this is not the place for you. The menu looked amazing to us, with everything from sashimi and oysters to paua dumplings and a classic creamy fish chowder with mussels, whitefish, shrimp, and smoked fish piquing my interest.

Unfortunately, it was a Friday night and we had not booked in advance and the buzzy, crowded restaurant could not squeeze us in. With a plan of trying to return the following night, we set off and luckily were able to grab a table at the nearby aptly named Faith Hope Love Malaysian Café. If you’ve never tried Malay cuisine before, this would be a great place to start. We feasted on steamed mussels, Nasi Lamak (the national dish of Malaysia), and Seafood Nasi Goreng washed down with local beer Hawke’s Bay beer, a perfect match for the cuisine.

Drinks

We left the restaurant stuffed and happy to meander a bit further along Marine Parade before heading to check out the Napier City Centre and explore what passes for nightlife in Napier. In search of a nightcap and after a little online investigating we discovered Teresa Cocktail Bar: a hidden Futurist cocktail bar. Entering through Harvest Deli, a New Zealand take on the traditional Italian salumeria, we passed through a velvet curtain into an incredibly trendy high-concept cocktail bar.

With mixologists creating libations that seemed like science experiments, we were suitably awed. The crowd, comprised of locals of all ages, seemed just as happy as we were to have stumbled upon this dreamlike place. In an atmosphere that rivaled New York’s most innovative speakeasies, I ordered a Manifesto Sour, made with black kaffir lime gin, NZ spinach vermouth, citrus ultra-passionfruit, and an aroma bubble.

Breakfast

The next morning, we rode our bikes back to the city center for a bright and healthy Kiwi breakfast and steaming flat whites at a local café. After breakfast, we headed over to the bike path along Marine Parade, enjoying the beautiful day, pedaling alongside the Pacific Ocean and driftwood-strewn beach. Cycling back through town to our Airbnb, we enjoyed the unseasonably warm and sunny weather and admired the architecture, so striking in its resemblance to our own Miami Beach’s Art Deco District.

2. Te Mata Peak Hike

About half an hour drive south of Napier is Te Mata Peak. Rising 400 meters above sea level, the summit can be reached by hiking, biking, or even driving if a cardio workout is not in the cards. For the best view in Hawke’s Bay, it’s worth summiting — however one gets there.

From the top, panoramic views in every direction can be seen — including the nearby mountain ranges Kaheka, Ruahine, and Maungaharuru and Cape Kidnappers, the easternmost headland. Cape Kidnappers is also home to an exclusive luxury resort and spa, a world-renowned golf course, and the Cape Kidnappers gannet colony, which can only be safely accessed via commercial operator. On a clear day atop Te Mata, one can even see as far north as Mount Ruapehu in Tongariro National Park over 100 miles away.

There is significant Maori history linked to Te Mata, which was at one point home to a large Maori pa that was constantly under threat of attack by other coastal tribes. The park surrounding the peak is also home to a number of walking tracks that are appropriate for all levels of fitness. Each track offers different views and opportunities for discovery from Redwood forests to limestone caves.

3. Hawke’s Bay’s Wineries

Known primarily for merlot, syrah, and cabernet blends and chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay’s wineries are among the most established in New Zealand. Blessed with a warm, dry climate, you’ll find wineries both large and small dotted along the wine trail through Hastings, Havelock North, and the rest of the region. Some require reservations for tastings, while other smaller wineries are fine with just dropping in but may keep irregular hours. It’s always best to plan ahead and allow yourself a little more time at each stop than you think you might need.

Mission Winery

Mission Winery the oldest winery in New Zealand was founded in 1851 by French missionaries. Its location right in Napier makes it an easy first stop if you’re staying in town. The setting is classic and dramatic and offers a great place to sample some vintages particular to the region while learning about the history of wine in New Zealand. The restaurant is also very popular for winery lunches.

Spend a few hours on the sunny terrace of a winery like Church Road or in the dramatic, modern tasting room at Craggy Range, sampling various wines and exulting in the beauty of the surrounding landscape. If you’re a keen cyclist and don’t want to worry about drinking and driving, a great way to visit a number of wineries is either on a self-guided or group bicycle winery tour.

Hawke’s Bay Winery Tours

Hawke’s Bay Winery Tours provides a variety of options, including half and full-day expeditions with or without lunch and will pick you up and drop you off if you’re in the area. This is a great way to experience Hawke’s Bay wine country get some exercise at a leisurely pace and not have to worry about driving anywhere. If you don’t like being part of a group, there are over 200 kilometers of easy-riding bike trails with wineries, breweries, and cider houses located just off the trails that you can discover on your own. Just rent a bike in Napier and head off with the wine trails map in hand. Even if you don’t like drinking wine, it’s a lovely day on the wine trail.

Pro Tip: Most wineries will discount the cost of a tasting with a minimum purchase. You can carry or ship wine home, or just enjoy it as you continue your New Zealand road trip.

New Zealand Wine

New Zealand is a wine paradise, with different regions throughout the country known for different varietals. Hawke’s Bay is the oldest and one of the largest, while Otago is renowned for its world-class pinot noir. Marlborough bears the distinction of producing great Sauvignon blanc, the wine that put New Zealand on the world wine map.

Many wineries will have locations in multiple parts of the country, growing different vintages in different areas. Wherever you travel in New Zealand, it’s more than likely you’ll have no trouble finding a good bottle of wine, or a comprehensive list of wines by the glass in your local cafe. So enjoy, and if you visit by car, make sure you appoint a designated driver.

When my 93-year-old mother, Val Kimber, lost her husband of 69 years, her two sisters rallied around her. Nothing extraordinary about that, but for this trio, it meant packing up the car and heading off for a road trip. Again, nothing too remarkable about that, even — except her sisters were 94 and 84 years old.

Mum and Dad were married to their best friend for 69 years. Dad was a wheat and sheep farmer in South Australia who retired at age 58. He and my mother sold the farm and moved to the regional city of Port Lincoln. They were two of the lucky ones. They enjoyed good health for the next 35 years until Dad’s passing at the age of 93.

Why A Road Trip At This Time?

My father’s death was challenging for my mother to contend with. They lived in their own home with a large garden and managed without outside support. At 93, they were both still driving and cuddled together in their double bed every night. Sharing similar passions, they were entirely devoted to each other. Mum was lost without him. Everywhere she looked, there were memories of Dad; his empty chair, the smell of his clothes hanging in the robe, his towel hanging in the bathroom. She slept on his side of the bed because she couldn’t bear to see it empty. 

When things settled down a little after Dad’s funeral, Mum’s youngest sister, 84-year-old Shirley, came to stay. She traveled from her home in Geelong, Victoria, 830 miles away. She soon saw that Mum would benefit from getting out of the house and taking in a change of scenery instead of being stuck in her usual patterns of living that were glaringly devoid of Dad. Shirley suggested they go on a road trip.

A Lifelong Connection To Open Spaces 

My parents owned caravans (towable travel trailers) for as long as I can remember. The first one was just 12 feet long and housed our family of six, albeit in a cramped way. Mum and Dad slept on the bunk bed, my eldest brother camped on the floor, and two other brothers and I slept crossways on the folded dining table. 

Dad was a member of the Royal Automobile Association for 73 years, having joined when he was 20. Just four months before his death, they attended the Association’s Gold 50 event to recognize people who had been members for 50 years or more. Of the 200 guests at this commemorative occasion, Dad was honored as the longest individual customer, being an RAA member since 1946.

Over the years, he utilized various services offered by the RAA and planned many of our caravan road trips with the aid of strip maps posted out to him on request. He loved studying the maps and the details contained in them. While he hated and avoided city driving, he loved the open road and had a thirst for learning and seeing new places. 

In their 35 years of healthy retirement, they traveled throughout most of Australia. Mum had always enjoyed watching the changing scenery as they drove, journaling as she went. She jotted down information about the trees and birdlife they saw, the fuel cost, and the weather, and she captured the memories with her camera. 

Now in her time of grief, she agreed with Shirley that heading off on a road trip would give her something else to think about and do. Their elder sister, Yvonne, a mere 94 years of age, was also keen for some quality time with her two siblings.

Choosing A Peaceful Destination

Mum’s hometown of Port Lincoln is a city on the southern end of the Eyre Peninsula. It is famous for its fishing and seafood industries. A popular place for retirees, its casual, country feel makes it a very livable city with a Mediterranean-style climate. Shirley nominated they drive to Streaky Bay, a quiet seaside town 190 miles away from Port Lincoln, for a 3-day getaway. 

Aware of how emotionally delicate my mother was, she opted for a destination that wouldn’t stir up anything sensitive or bring back memories for Mum she couldn’t deal with. She was also mindful of the physical limitations of her very aged sisters. While the road journey in itself would be stimulating, the destination needed to give peace and tranquillity. Looking ahead at the weather forecast, they picked a day to head off when the winter weather was favorable.

Shirley booked pet-friendly accommodations with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, and living areas, so they could each have privacy as required. On a mild, overcast day, the sisters set off on their road trip with food essentials, warm clothes, and Shirley’s little dog in the car.

Add A Bit Of Sightseeing On The Way

Shirley moved away from the Eyre Peninsula 64 years prior. However, she regularly travels long distances in her campervan to visit family, with only her dog to keep her company. She is no stranger to driving and was quite happy to drive her big sisters on this trip. 

Their first stop was at Coffin Bay. Coffin Bay was named by the English explorer who discovered South Australia after his friend, Sir Isaac Coffin. The locals affectionately refer to the town as “Coffins” and never consider it a morbid name. Surrounded by national parks and a stunning coastline, this pretty town is famous for oysters, spectacular fishing, and relaxing vacations. The usually sleepy, seaside village, where kangaroos and emus wander the streets, is home to only 700 lucky inhabitants. However, tourists flock to this destination in the summertime to enjoy boating, sailing, canoeing, kayaking, surfing, water skiing, paddle boarding, swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, and more. It is a water lover’s paradise.

From Coffin Bay, the sisters continued north on the Flinders Highway, then called into Locks Well Beach near the town of Elliston before stopping to marvel at a fascinating rock formation called Murphy’s Haystacks. These wind-worn pillars and boulders of pink granite were sculpted into their present form about 100,000 years ago and attract photographers, especially in the late afternoon golden hour. From there, it was just another 30-minute drive to arrive at the bed and breakfast in Streaky Bay. 

Time To Connect And Reflect

Their accommodations were on the seafront and boasted a large timber deck with an outdoor dining setting and barbecue. This was an ideal place to overlook the sparkling waters and views of the town jetty with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine. Basking in the rare winter sunshine and breathing in the fresh sea air, the only noise interrupting their conversation was the low, throaty sounds as pelicans flapped their wings and croaked to announce their daily arrival.

Reminiscing about days gone by, Shirley talked of her road trips and quest to track down family history in regional towns. She enjoys her time on the road meeting people of varying ages, interests, and nationalities, and confirms she never feels lonely. Country historical societies are always a wealth of information, and cemeteries with old graves regularly provide clues when tracing ancestors.

“People are very friendly to solo women travelers, especially an old white-haired lady with a cute fluffy dog,” Shirley quipped. 

How Travel Can Be Used As Grief Therapy

After three deeply therapeutic days of close sister bonding, lots of childhood reminiscing, and support for Val in her grieving, they extended their stay an additional 2 nights. The time away gave Val comfort and a real sense of family support from those who had been by her side all her life. While her sadness and grief would remain, she gathered some strength and resolved to return to what would be her new everyday life.

After returning home from almost 440 miles of travel and spades of priceless memories, these life-loving oldies proved that you’re never too old for a road trip.

One of the greatest joys of visiting other cities and other countries is the food. I’ve always said the best ways to get to know a place are to eat it and walk it, so when I was invited on a hosted 2-week exploration road trip to Australia’s Northern Territory and Outback, I brought my most forgiving pants.

The Northern Territory of Australia has over 100 nationalities with roughly 140 social and cultural groups, so the flavors found in The Northern Territories are as diverse as its peoples. From Aboriginal indigenous peoples to a heavy influx of Asian, Malaysian, and Indonesian peoples to Greek immigrants, the dishes in Darwin, Alice Springs, and Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park are just as adventurous as the hardy, wild spirit of the land.

From curry dishes to big fat grubs to fresh barramundi, Australia’s “Top End” is ripe with creative dishes, high-end cuisine, and adventurous flavors. Here are the 7 unique foods to try in Northern Australia and where to find them.

1. Laksa

On any given Saturday, Darwinites rush down to the Parap Village Markets in Darwin to line up at Mary’s Laksa. Rich with the smells and flavors of Asian cuisine, The Parap Village Market is a type of “farmers market with an Asian flair.” Many locals go every weekend to dine on food truck servings of satay, fresh tropical fruits and vegetables, traditional and authentic Asian delicacies, and, most importantly, laksa.

Being located closer to Jakarta than to Sydney, Australia, Darwin is arguably the Laksa Capital of Australia. This rich coconut milk and curry soup thick with noodles and scented with the heady flavors of lemongrass, chilies, galangal, and other sweet and sour spices can be made with chicken, prawns, tofu, and other proteins.

Many Darwinites swear by a bowl of spicy rich laksa for breakfast (especially after overindulging the night before), but it’s a great dish any time of day.

The Parap Village Markets and the Mindil Beach Sunset Market are the best places to score authentic laksa, but if you want to try Mary’s Laksa, be prepared to wait in line. Other places serving up award-winning laksa include Yati’s Laksa at the Parap Market and the Laksa House, located just down the Stuart Highway and owned by Indonesian West Timor refugee Amye Un.

2. Barramundi

The largest number of wild barramundi in Australia is found in the Top End, so you won’t have any problem finding this territory’s food treasure. Many restaurants in Darwin, Alice Springs, Adelaide, and beyond list barramundi on the menu, which is served whole or as cutlets. Often, this flaky, firm fish is fried, barbecued, baked, steamed, grilled, or served up in a lemon and dill butter sauce or Asian-style stir-fry.

For top-rated restaurants in Darwin and beyond, check out Pee Wee’s At the Point, Barra On Todd Restaurant and Bar at the Mercure Alice Springs Resort, and the Sunday sunset fish fry at La Beach Fish and Chips in Darwin.

Pro Tip: Barramundi is a popular game fish, and Darwin is full of fishing charters that will happily take you out to score one of these big, tasty giants. For more information on fishing charters in Darwin, check the Northern Territory website.

3. Kangaroo

I didn’t see a single kangaroo during my 2 weeks in the Northern Territory, but I ate a few! Kangaroos, which are cute and adorable, have been hunted for meat by Aboriginal tribes for generations, but the legalization of kangaroo meat for human consumption occurred only in 1980 in Southern Australia, followed by other states in 1993.

This healthy red meat, which is low in saturated fats and high in iron, is made into steaks, burgers, and sausages, often cooked from rare to medium. To me, the flavor was much like beef, but I only had a small sample on a sampling platter at the Barra Bar and Bistro at the Cooinda Lodge at Kakadu National Park.

Many restaurants in the Northern Territory serve kangaroo in various ways. If you are in Darwin, try the Roo Filet at Shenannigans Restaurant & Bar or The Moorish Cafe’s Berber spiced kangaroo in tomato jam.

4. Crocodile

Like kangaroo, crocodile is just one of those exotic dishes you have to sample in Northern Australia. With seven commercial crocodile farms in the Northern Territory, crocodile is often served fried on many menus.

After a day of croc watching or swimming with crocodiles at Crocosaurus Cove, give these toothy predators a taste of their own medicine by sampling the crocodile schnitzel or crocodile spring rolls at Tim’s Surf and Turf or the crocodile skewers at Crustaceans Steak and Seafood, both in Darwin.

At the indigenous-owned Cooinda Lodge, the Barra Bar & Bistro Taste of Kakadu platter includes crocodile spring rolls, but also bush delicacies like barramundi pie and buffalo served with Kakadu plum chili sauce and bush tomato relish.

5. Witchetty Grubs And Ants 

Western countries haven’t caught on to the “eating bugs” as part of a balanced diet like other cultures have, but grubs, grasshoppers, ants, crickets, and more are packed full of protein and flavor.

In Australia, Aboriginal and Indigenous cultures have relied on a fat, white, thumb-sized juicy grub called witchetty grubs. One of Australia’s bush tucker staples, witchetty grubs live in the roots of the witchetty bush and are the larvae of the cossid wood moth.

These protein-packed superfood squiggly grubs can be eaten raw, cooked on hot ashes, or barbecued, making their skin crispy and the insides not so… gooey.

I saw my first witchetty grub on the Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Experience Tour, a one-of-a-kind tour hosted by brother-and-sister team Peter and Natasha. This one-hour cultural experience highlights the culture and traditions of the local Luritja and Pertame people of Central Australia.

Natasha dug out a couple of fat wichetty grubs from a root to let us taste it, but I’ll be the first to admit that I passed on eating them raw.

The Tali Wiru open-air dining experience at Sails in the Desert Ayers Rock Resort, the curated dinner under the golden red sunset of Uluru, included an appetizer of melon with Australian green ants. Green ants are found in Australia’s tropical north and have a sharp, tangy lemon flavor that is being incorporated into high-end dishes throughout the territory.

6. Camel Burgers

Did you know that Australia is home to the largest population of feral camels in the world? Neither did I, but when explorers and colonizers began populating the Northern Territory and Outback, they found these humped desert ungulates were especially suited to the climate of Australia.

Today, an estimated 100,000 feral one-hump camels are thought to roam the Australian desert, and more than eight commercial camel farms provide products like camel milk, camel meat, skincare creams, and more.

Kings Creek Station, located on the desolate highway between Alice Springs and Uluru and near Kings Canyon, serves up a mighty camel burger at its facilities that is absolutely delicious.

7. Mud Crabs

Talk to the locals in Darwin, and they’ll tell you that despite the dirty name, mud crabs have some of the best-tasting and sweetest meat you’ll ever taste. Found wild in shallow waters and tidal flats, mud crabs can be found along most of the Australian northern coast.

Cathy’s Place in Darwin is known for its mud crabs, but most seafood establishments will offer up these delicious crustaceans.

Pro Tip

If you are visiting Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and staying at the Ayers Rock Resort, I highly recommend the Tali Wiru dinner experience. In addition to world-class gastronomic excellence, this dinner served at the top of a private dune spotlights Aboriginal culture and respect.

The four-course dinner is infused with native herbs and spices, local ingredients, and unique plants. Book early because this dinner experience under the stars sells out fast each night.

Thousands of years ago, glaciers carved a fiord into the mountains, creating steep cliffs that plunge deep into the sea. Today Milford Sound is popular with visitors to New Zealand because of its rugged scenery and the wildlife that flourishes in one of the most beautiful national parks in the world.

I’ve visited Queenstown several times, and on my visit last year, I decided to take a day trip to Milford Sound.

Visitors can explore Milford Sound by boat, kayak, or walking trails around the shore. On a cruise around the sound, the boat got close enough to the cliffs for me to see rainbows in the waterfalls and feel the spray. I spotted fur seals lying on the rocks at the base of the cliffs and penguins flapping water off their wings. Sometimes dolphins follow the boat, although there weren’t any that day.

Milford Sound is part of Te Wāhipounamu – South West New Zealand World Heritage Area recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site because of the unique plants and animals found there. Te Wāhipounamu covers four national parks with many remote areas only accessible to hikers. Milford Sound is one of the most accessible spots in this world heritage area, so visitors can experience the wilderness and see native birds and marine life even if they are not active outdoor adventurers.

Once upon a time, Milford Sound was only accessible on foot. The Māori people formed trails over the mountains as they searched for greenstone, a type of jade. When tourism began after European settlement, early visitors walked several days along the Milford Track from Te Anau through to Milford Sound. It’s still possible to do this today, but now there are faster and easier options by road and air. Milford Sound is often visited as a day trip from Queenstown, a major tourist hub with a wide range of accommodations and attractions. Some tours start from the small town of Te Anau, which is closer and more appealing to nature lovers.

Many companies offer tours to Milford Sound, and when I visited, I looked at five different ways to travel there.

1. Coach

A coach is comfortable, as you’re able to stand and stretch and the ride is smooth. With the seats being high above the ground, it’s easy to see over roadside vegetation to get a good view. Several tour companies offer tours from both Queenstown and Te Anau, and it’s the most economical option.

As Milford Sound is about a 4-hour drive from Queenstown and a 2-hour drive from Te Anau, it can be a very long day trip. Pickups in Queenstown are as early as 7 a.m., returning around 7 p.m. Some people choose to take a coach to Milford Sound and then return by plane or helicopter to make the day less tiring.

Coach tours stop along the way to Milford Sound, with the guide providing commentary.

Leaving Queenstown, I enjoyed the scenic views of Lake Wakatipu on the way to the first stop at Te Anau for coffee. Along the Milford Road, stops included the Eglinton Valley where a scene in the Fellowship of the Rings movie was filmed, and the Mirror Lakes, home to rare aquatic birds.

The final stop was at the Homer Tunnel, where kea, native mountain parrots, flew overhead. The stops depend on the driver being able to find safe parking, which can vary according to road conditions. On my trip, we enjoyed seven scenic stops.

We reached Milford Sound in time for the afternoon cruise and had lunch aboard the boat. The return trip had no scenic stops, just a coffee break in Te Anau.

2. Minivan Tour

A minivan tour is great if you prefer being with a smaller group of people or you are a group that wants a vehicle for your exclusive use. As with coaches, there are several companies offering minivan tours from Queenstown and Te Anau. Some offer luxury vehicles with more upholstered seats and tinted windows, although space in minivans is more confined than in coaches, which may be an issue for those who like to stretch their legs.

Minivans also make scenic stops on the way to Milford Sound. They are often more flexible about where they stop, being able to park in tighter spaces along the side of the road. The smaller group size means getting in and out of the minivan is quicker than a coach, maximizing the time at each stop.

Like coach tours, minivans will get you to Milford Sound in time for an afternoon cruise. Returning by air is also an option for those wanting a less tiring day. The cost of minivan tours runs slightly higher than coach tours, but it is still cheaper than the air options.

3. Rental Car

Visitors who have a rental car may think of driving themselves to Milford Sound, as they already have transport and the cost of the additional gas seems economical compared to a tour. There are several things worth knowing about before doing this.

• If you want to drive, it is best to stay in Te Anau and drive from there, instead of trying to drive to and from Queenstown in a day.
• Check the Milford Road conditions before you go, as it’s prone to avalanches in winter and spring, and there may be road works along the way.

With some planning, you can enjoy a relaxed journey at your own pace.

Self-driving offers flexibility for people wanting to stop and spend more time exploring the scenery. There are short walks along Milford Road that moderately active people can comfortably do.

If you want to take your time exploring along the Milford Road, it is possible to stay overnight at Milford Sound. This means that you could go on a morning boat cruise, which is less busy than the afternoon cruise. You would also have time to go walking or kayaking at Milford Sound.

4. Plane

Flying to Milford Sound in a small plane appeals to people who don’t have a lot of time. It’s the fastest way to get to Milford Sound from Queenstown as it’s possible to fly there and back in half a day or even less.

While flying saves time, it costs more than tours via road. Flights are also more likely to be canceled in bad weather than a coach or minivan trip.

Some plane trips just fly over the sound, while others land at Milford Sound airport so passengers can join a cruise. The flight follows a different route from the road journey, flying across the mountains. This gives a bird’s-eye view of the alpine scenery, meaning you can see clear blue lakes and glaciers in remote valleys.

Pro Tip: Taking a coach or minivan tour to Milford Sound and flying back means you can enjoy the scenery from all angles.

Some flights take in other parts of Te Wāhipounamu, traveling to Doubtful Sound and Dusky Sound, which are less visited than Milford Sound, or flying over Franz Josef Glacier, another popular tourist sight. This maximizes your sightseeing opportunities in the area.

5. Helicopter

Helicopter is another fast option for time-poor visitors. Similar to small planes, helicopters fly a scenic route over the mountains to Milford Sound and also through valleys, affording passengers close-up views of waterfalls, forests, and mountains.

They can land in beautiful remote scenic spots, by a lake, on a glacier, or on a beach. Some helicopter flights offer a gourmet picnic in pristine surroundings far away from the usual tourist crowds. For a family or small group, this would be a special way to experience the wilderness, part of the trip of a lifetime. 

Helicopter is the most expensive option, but with helicopters carrying only a few passengers, it’s possible to tailor a tour to your own requirements. The helicopter flight can be combined with a cruise at Milford Sound and visits to Doubtful Sound or to Lord of the Rings filming locations. 

Mobility Note: Due to the rugged nature of the helicopters’ remote landing spots, they may not be suitable for people who have limited mobility.

Helicopter trips can be canceled in bad weather, so it’s recommended to schedule the trip early in your visit to Queenstown to allow for rescheduling as needed. Cancellation policies vary between companies, so check what they allow for.

More Milford Sound Pro Tips

• Weather: Milford Sound has high rainfall, with rain falling on more than 200 days a year, but don’t let this discourage you. On rainy days the waterfalls are spectacular, gushing off the cliffs, and the mountains are dramatically fringed with mist. On fine days, the sea is deep blue and it’s easier to spot wildlife. Whatever the weather, you’ll experience beautiful, wild scenery. Just check the weather forecast before you go.
• Packing: A rain jacket is recommended at any time of year as the cruise boats get very close to the waterfalls, and sunscreen is useful even on cloudy days.

Sydney WorldPride, held from February 17 to March 5, 2023, will celebrate Australia’s LGBTQIA+ community in a dazzling display. The festival will be Australia’s most significant global event since the Sydney 2000 Olympic Games.

What Is WorldPride?

 WorldPride is the biggest LGBTQIA+ event in the world.  Like the Olympics, there is fierce competition amongst cities to host this event. Held every 2–3 years, WorldPride was hosted in Rome in 2000, Jerusalem in 2006, London in 2012, Toronto in 2014, Madrid in 2017, New York in 2019, and Copenhagen and Malmo, Sweden, in 2021.

For the first time ever, the festival is now coming Down Under to the Southern Hemisphere.

Sydney WorldPride

The festival, held during the Australian summer, will run for 17 days and attract over 500,000 visitors. 

Over 300 events celebrate the LGBTQIA+ community at WorldPride, including:

• Live & Proud: Sydney WorldPride’s Opening Concert
• Domain Dance Party
• Human Rights Conference
• First Nations Gala Concert
• A women’s party
• More than 60 specially-curated art experiences
• And 20 sporting events.

The festival will also highlight Sydney’s drawcard attractions.

The Sydney Gay And Lesbian Mardi Gras

Sydney is already known as the home of the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras, one of the world’s biggest LGBTQIA+ events. 

In 2023, this famous parade will be incorporated into the WorldPride event. The Sydney Mardi Gras parade began in 1978 as a march and commemoration of the 1969 Stonewall riots in New York. It is led by Dykes on Bikes, Australia’s longest-running female-identified motorcycle club, revving up the crowd. They lead over 12,500 marchers and 200 floats in an extravaganza of riotous costumes and dance routines accompanied by lighting and fireworks. The parade wends its way up Oxford Street in a spectacle to behold. At WorldPride, the estimated Mardi Gras attendance figures will leap from around 700,000 to 1 million, and footage will be streamed worldwide. 

Pro Tip: Visitors can watch the parade for free from any vantage point along the route.

Bondi Beach Party

Bondi Beach is arguably Australia’s most famous beach, with wide sands and crashing surf, a symbol of Australian beach culture. World-class music acts will take to the stage, taking participants on a 7-hour magical journey. This is an 18 and over ticketed event.

Sydney Opera House

Sydney Opera House is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is instantly recognizable as one of Australia’s most associated images. The fabulous wave-life roofline is a striking architectural sight against Sydney Harbor’s magnificence.

During WorldPride, the famous opera house will host Blak & Deadly: The First Nations Gala Concert, a rainbow explosion of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander LGBTQIA+ artistry throughout a 2-hour concert.

Visitors to Sydney should add a tour of the Opera House to their itinerary. This iconic Modernist structure has recently undergone a $200 million upgrade.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

During WordPride, 50,000 people will march across one of the world’s most recognizable landmarks, the Sydney Harbour Bridge, holding hands with friends, family, and supporters. This event will be a powerful international statement of support and visibility for the LGBTQIA+ community. 

Closure of the iconic bridge to traffic is exceedingly rare. This walk will go down in the annals of Australian history. 

The Pride March is a free event, with entry via ballot. Both locals and visitors can enter the ballot drawn in early 2023. Subscribe to the Sydney WorldPride newsletter to be notified when entries open.

Tips For Attending 

Significant events will sell out quickly. But, if you ever needed a good reason to visit Sydney, this is it. Sydneysiders know how to party. Local artists, producers, and promoters will participate in Pride Amplified, a dedicated open-access program for arts, culture, experiences, and parties, with hundreds of events across Sydney. Major events such as the Oxford Street Parade, Fair Day, and the Pride March over the Harbour Bridge and Pride Villages (home to stalls, dining, and performances) are all free to attend. On the final weekend, a section of Oxford Street will be closed for a giant street party. 

Sign up for the Sydney WorldPride 2023 newsletter for updates, headliner announcements, and notifications about ticket releases.

Where To Stay

Sydney will unfurl the rainbow carpet to welcome guests. Central areas to stay include Darlinghurst & Surry Hills near Oxford Street, home to some of the city’s most loved bars and restaurants. Kings Cross and Potts Point are historically party precincts. Downtown five-star hotel options include the Sydney Harbour Marriott Hotel and Pier One. Many events are walkable from Sheraton Grand Hyde Park. 

There is accommodation for all budgets. Four Points by Sheraton Sydney, Central Park is in the heart of Chippendale, an easy walk to Surry Hills, the city, and Glebe. It’s also a short bus ride from the inner west, with its great bars, restaurants, vintage shops, and live performance venues. Newtown and Enmore offer affordable accommodation and fast, easy access to the city. Coogee and Bondi Beaches have a range of options within reach of WorldPride events. Or stay in Manly for relaxed beach accommodation and a ferry commute across the Harbour to central Sydney. For other suggestions, see Sydney WorldPride For Travelers.

Know Before You Go

There is no hotel quarantine in Australia. Proof of vaccination is not required. More information about COVID-19 can be found via Home Affairs.

If you want to know more about pride parades in the U.S., check out our Guide To Pride Parades And Other Events In America’s Most Gay-Friendly Cities.

Adelaide Is Just A 4-Hour Drive To The Bush

Cozy, laid-back Adelaide, the capital of the state of South Australia, combines big-city energy with small-town charm on Australia’s southeastern coast. As the gateway to 18 world-renowned wine regions — including the famous Barossa Valley — and as a culinary superstar, it is emerging from the shadow of its flashier eastern cousins, Sydney and Melbourne. As I discovered recently during my first visit to Australia, which fulfilled a lifelong dream, this boutique city of 1.3 million punches well above its weight.

Wedged between white sand beaches to the west, rolling hills to the east, and the vast Outback to the north, Adelaide claims a geographical variety only rivaled by its cultural diversity. Created as a planned city on Kaurna Aboriginal land, it was originally settled by free immigrants from the British Isles — not convicts like elsewhere in Australia.

Successive waves of settlers from Europe, Asia, the Middle East, and Africa injected their traditions into the vibrant urban lifestyle. Add to that a parade of world-class festivals, beaches, museums, parks, and gardens, and you have all the makings of a winner. In fact, this under-the-radar destination packs all the quintessential Aussie experiences into one accessible, compact area. Here are 10 great reasons to visit.

1. Adelaide Botanic Garden

Enjoy this leafy oasis right in the heart of the city, which showcases plants and trees from around Australia and the world in its 124 serene acres. The Botanic Garden is the perfect place to learn about the diversity of native plants, including trees that date back to its founding more than 150 years ago.

I was lucky to have as my guide through the garden Haydyn Bromley, an Aborigine whose company, Bookabee Australia, leads cultural tours. As we strolled the sandy trails through the Australian forest section, he pointed out such fascinating indigenous specimens as the giant spear lily tree with its long spiky flowers; the bunya-bunya tree, whose trunk resembles an elephant’s and whose pine cones are as large as cantaloupes; and the macadamia tree, which is native to Australia and not Hawaii, as commonly thought.

The facility also features a cactus and succulent garden, an international rose garden, an Australian native garden, and the garden of health, with more than 2,300 plants from 257 species used to heal and promote wellbeing.

Pro Tip: Break up your visit with lunch at the Gardens Kiosk or with a coffee or tea break at the Café Fibonacci.

2. Adelaide Central Market

Foodies should beeline for the Adelaide Central Market, the hub of the city’s thriving culinary scene. With more than 70 traders, the sprawling facility is one of the largest indoor produce markets in the Southern Hemisphere, founded in 1869. In addition to farm-fresh fruits and vegetables, the market sells meats, seafood and sausages (fiery “bum burners,” anyone?), cheeses (including varieties from South Australia and Victoria), nuts, dried fruit, and eye-popping baked goods (try iconic Australian lamington cake or a vanilla slice).

Stop for lunch at one of the popular cafes or eateries, such as SiSea, which specializes in South Australian seafood and tapas — Goolwa pipis (clams), Coffin Bay oysters, and Eyre Peninsula mussels. Or take home unique jams, relishes, rubs, oils, herbs, spices, teas, and gins, all made from native “bush” ingredients at Something Wild, an Indigenous food purveyor. Its lemon myrtle tarts sprinkled with crunchy, salty green ants — yes, ants — are a mouth-puckering treat.

Pro Tip: Go for lunch or afternoon coffee/tea so you can sample some of the delicious food on site.

3. Cleland Wildlife Park

Can’t make it to the Outback to see kangaroos? This immersive nature park in the Adelaide Hills lets you get up close and personal with a variety of native species in their natural habitat. Feed the kangaroos, emus, and wallabies, which nibble gently from your hand. Cuddle a cute koala in one of the few places in Australia where you’re allowed to, while a ranger feeds it eucalyptus leaves, its favorite snack.

Listen to native birds twittering in the trees. Spot dingoes and Tasmanian devils. Meet an echidna, also known as a spiny anteater, which is one of the only living mammals that lays eggs.

With its walking and biking trails lacing the lush setting, the park is a beautiful place to spend several hours interacting with animals that mostly roam free. It’s the next best thing to being out in the bush.

Pro Tip: Book your Cleland Wildlife koala hug in advance; they take place daily at 2 p.m.

4. Penfolds Winery

Known as the wine capital of Australia, Adelaide has 200 wineries within an hour’s drive. But one is actually located right inside the city itself: Penfolds Winery. Not only is it “the world’s only working winery in a city,” as consumer experiences manager Renee Jeffrey told me during my tour, but it’s also one of the best. It has been listed in Wine & Spirits magazine’s Top 100 Wineries 29 times, more than any other winery in the world.

Perched in the foothills of Adelaide with gorgeous views of the city, this heritage-protected estate and vineyard offers an array of tastings and guided tours, including a visit to the vintage cellar. Be sure to sample Australia’s most revered wine and Penfolds’ flagship: Grange, created by its first chief winemaker back in 1951. After winning a barrel full of awards, Grange — made from shiraz grapes — was listed as a South Australian heritage icon in 2001.

Pro Tip: After your tour, indulge in a decadent dinner at the award-winning Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant adjacent to the winery and long considered one of the city’s top dining spots.

5. South Australian Museum

Evidence of the oldest animal life on Earth. The world’s most valuable specimens of opals — the Virgin Rainbow and the Fire of Australia. The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of Australian Aboriginal cultural material. You can see all that and more in the South Australian Museum.

With a focus on Australian cultural and natural heritage, the 165-year-old museum has fascinating sections on biology, with 3 million specimens from parasites to whales; paleontology, with about 50,000 fossil specimens; humanities; and mineral sciences.

In the Aboriginal Cultures Gallery, a replica of the famous 1974 Tindale map of Indigenous Australia shows the tribal boundaries of Aboriginal groups who spoke 250 languages and 800 dialects at the time of European settlement. At the museum, my Aboriginal guide, Tjimari Sanderson-Milera, explained that those native languages, not taught in school, are being lost. The map represents the complexity of Aboriginal social, cultural, and religious relationships that still exists in the country today.

6. Tandanya National Aboriginal Cultural Institute

For an expression of contemporary Aboriginal culture, visit the Tandanya National Aboriginal Cultural Institute, Australia’s oldest Aboriginal-owned and managed arts center. Featuring emerging and established artists from around the country, it presents rotating exhibits, live music, and performing arts. “Everything we do has an Indigenous spin,” explained CEO Nancia J Guevarra.

Pick up a handcrafted item from the woven bags, wooden “clapsticks,” boomerangs, scarves, ceramics, jewelry, and more in the small gallery shop. Or stop in the café for a cup of bush tea and a delectable dessert made with Indigenous ingredients: lemon myrtle cheesecake, wattleseed (used to make Aboriginal bread) scones with quandong (native peach) jam, and wattleseed chocolate brownies made with Kakadu plum, a superfood boasting the highest vitamin C content of any fruit worldwide.

Pro Tip: Check the exhibit and performance schedule in advance.

7. World-Class Beaches

Balance a dose of culture with some outdoor fun on one of Adelaide’s postcard-pretty beaches along its 19-mile-long coastline. Grab a towel and a swimsuit and you can be splashing in the water or sprawled on a white sandy strand within 20 minutes.

Of Adelaide’s 20 or so beaches, several stand out. Long, sandy Glenelg is a family favorite for its proximity to an amusement park. Relax on Brighton or Henley beach and enjoy their cafés and seafood restaurants. Sand dune-lined Semaphore is another laid-back bathing beauty, while Port Noarlunga, Christies, and Moana are surfing and body-boarding hotspots. Thanks to its popular reef, Port Noarlunga is also great for snorkeling and diving.

Pro Tip: While Adelaide beaches are generally safe, some waters can experience strong currents, so check conditions before swimming.

8. Flashy Festivals 

Adelaide may seem like a quiet town, but it erupts each year with 11 major arts and cultural festivals, earning it the moniker Festival City. From art, music, theater, and comedy to literature, film, history, cabaret, and circus, everyone will find something of interest. The two biggest blockbusters are the Adelaide Fringe (February 17-March 19, 2023), the biggest arts festival in the Southern Hemisphere, and the Adelaide Festival (March 3-29, 2023).

Adelaide Fringe Festival 

Attracting more than 3 million attendees, the Adelaide Fringe features an eclectic mix of events including cabaret, theater, comedy, music, visual arts, and workshops. It provides a showcase for more than 6,000 independent artists who put on 1,200 shows in 300 venues across South Australia.

The Adelaide Festival

The 62-year-old Adelaide Festival, Australia’s preeminent arts festival, presents grand operas, dance performances, large-scale art installations, and the beloved Adelaide Writers’ Week, Australia’s largest free literary festival. With its high-profile, cutting-edge international art and world-class performances, the Adelaide Festival is a feast for the senses.

Pro Tip: Book your trip well in advance if you want to attend one of these popular events.

9. Adelaide Oval Rooftop Climb

Nothing compares to seeing a city from on high. And in Adelaide, that means taking in the urban landscape from the roof of the iconic Adelaide Oval, the state-of-the-art stadium in the heart of the city. For a unique sky-high adventure, climb up and across the Oval’s rooftop to the Riverbank platform, which is 164 feet high. From there, you can thrill to 360-degree views of the city, all the way to the coastline on one side and the Adelaide Hills on the other.

RoofClimb guides lead groups of up to 14 participants on 2-hour daytime, twilight, or nighttime climbs. Whether it’s sunny skies stretching to the horizon, the magic of a sunset glow, or the sparkle of evening lights, this is an experience you won’t soon forget.

Pro Tip: The climb requires moderate physical exertion for about half a mile, climbing up and down ladders and multiple flights of stairs while wearing a safety suit.

10. Visit The Outback

No visit to Australia is complete without a visit to the Outback. And Adelaide makes that easy as the country’s closest major city to the bush, just 4 hours away. As you travel the highway north, eucalyptus trees and sheep farms give way to a vast endless landscape of increasingly empty ochre-red earth. Forget Montana. This is big-sky country, where the expansive terrain is dwarfed by a vast sheltering sky that turns fiery crimson with the setting sun. Wild kangaroos and emu rule in this stark, dry environment, hopping freely across the plains. You can drive for miles without seeing another soul.

I spent the night at a quintessential bush lodge, the 12-room Prairie Hotel in the remote community of Parachilna about 470 kilometers (300 miles) from Adelaide. Attracting adventurers since 1876, the rustic, quirky property boasts an iconic bar and an in-house brewery, “because you can be in the middle of the Outback and still want craft beer,” head brewer Lachy Fargher told me.

Walls lined with local and Aboriginal art for sale and a Gallery Restaurant serving unexpectedly sophisticated fare — emu pate, bush tomato burrata with macadamias and native basil pesto, and roasted lamb with pickled shallots — add incongruously refined touches for such an ends-of-the-earth place.

Pro Tip: If you’re driving in the Outback at dawn or dusk, watch for kangaroos that dart in front of cars during these feeding times. I saw numerous kangaroo carcasses on the sides of the road.

When I asked a New Zealander at the beginning of our trip what to do when we reached Wellington, he said, “you’ll spend a lot of money.” Challenge accepted. What can we do in one of New Zealand’s most expensive cities without breaking the bank? We searched websites and social media to find inexpensive, incredible experiences. Make sure to include a trip up Mount Victoria when you have car access and a few hours.

1. Tour The Beehive And New Zealand’s Parliamentary Complex

Wellington is the seat of New Zealand’s government with a distinctively shaped complex that includes a beehive-shaped building. Known locally as “the Beehive,” that section contains the executive branch of government.

Book online via email before your trip or as late as before the building opens at 9 a.m.

The Introduction to Parliament tour lasts an hour, offered on the hour every hour between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. We scored tickets for the 10 a.m. tour and walked over from our apartment. Free and free.

Pro Tip: It is the nicest and shortest to walk along the waterfront. The curve in the bay makes the journey shorter than traveling the outlying city roads.

We arrived at the right side of the “beehive” as you face Parliament, entered the visitor center, walked through metal detectors, and left all our belongings at bag claim. No visitor photography is allowed inside the building.

Pro Tip: Be sure to arrive at least 15 minutes before your scheduled tour for the security screening process.

We watched a short video welcoming us to Parliament and thanking us for our interest in their democracy.

Our tour guide, Janet, walked us past the visitors’ information desk, and into the beehive itself to share the history of this large, semi-circular banquet hall with elevators in the center. The concept of the building may have been drawn on a napkin in the 1960s or built from matchboxes. Both are now Kiwi urban legends, and the origin is no longer known.

Next, we visited Parliament, in the main, sandstone-colored building. Partially demolished in a 1907 fire because it was made of wood, they rebuilt the building using stone. Through the main entrance, up two flights of stairs, we entered the Gallery. New Zealand’s House of Representatives is the sole chamber. They’ve done away with the House of Lords due to redundancy. Parliament is in session Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. 33 weeks a year. It’s free to enter and observe their legislative process.  

Continuing down the hall to the library (my favorite place in the building), we admired former librarians’ pictures and an awesome art piece created from book bindings. Whatever can’t be answered online for the members of parliament can be found by the librarian.

From the library, we entered the old House of Lord chambers and were regaled with stories and photos of Queen Elizabeth’s visits to open parliament. In her absence, the Governor General, originally a Brit but a New Zealander since the 1960s, sits in Her Majesty’s stead.

Then, we visited the Great Hall, the original entrance restored after the fire, and an art-filled atrium, before proceeding to the earthquake protection area where we saw a video about how the building was retrofitted with New Zealand-developed earthquake protection.

2. Visit Parliament In Session

Once you’ve toured the building, if Parliament meets that afternoon, you’ll be given the option to return to watch Parliament in action. If you can, please do. Their political parties were forced to make “side deals” to retain the majority. The subject of discussion on our visit was foreign students. That includes Americans. We learned that international student education is a $4 billion endeavor for New Zealand, making it the fourth largest contributor to the economy. Listening to and learning their perspectives was fascinating.

You have the option to choose whether you want to be an AYES or a NOES from the beginning. The signs over the doors typically represent the entry point for the ruling party (AYES) and the opposition (NOES). But, there’s a fast count purpose to the doors as well. The rare time a “conscience vote” is called, the members of Parliament walk through the door that signifies their vote and are so counted. It’s a physical representation of the mental and emotional background for a vote. For visitors, it’s as simple as selecting which side you want to be able to watch.

Be sure to check out the front table. If you see a scepter, you know they’re in a formal session.

The artwork in the room is symbolic. Locations named on these walls represent conflicts. The monogram on the ceiling is that of His Majesty, George V. The greenery isn’t just to beautify the room. It represents the suffragette movement. New Zealand was, after all, the first country to offer women the vote.

3. Visit Any Pop-Up Village

You’ll want to check local city websites or google search what village is open during your trip. For us, the village entailed several 8 by 5 feet cargo containers, outfitted with the sellers’ wares.

Pro Tip: Take an extra suitcase to carry your treasures home. We spotted resin-coated orchids made into jewelry, fur pelts, and knitted products.

4. Stop For Tea Or A Meal

The pop-up village included tents with Schnitzel and Bratwurst, the most common food fare. Individual warehouses on the pier had their own bars and restaurants with the Crab Shack, our first choice. Note that restaurant “chains” here don’t have the same menus at different locations.

5. Stroll Along The Waterfront

The waterfront is beautiful to walk along. There are plenty of businesses and shipping ventures. There’s a nice breeze and beautiful and funny sculptures — from the sails in the center section with several restaurants, to the play area with a slide high enough my 22-year-old had to go on it, to swings and a rugby pitch.

6. Visit Te Papa Museum

Te Papa Museum celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2023. When we visited, the bonus exhibit revolved around Gallipoli, quite meaningful to New Zealanders. Gallipoli, a city in modern-day Turkey, was, in 1914, still part of the Ottoman Empire and the setting for a terrible battle that took 200,000 lives, including 2,779 New Zealanders (about 1/6 of their armed forces) before they retreated.

The installation’s figures were 10 times larger than life-size and quite remarkable, right down to the flies. The saddest part was the recreation of Lieutenant-Colonel William George Malone’s hut, where he’d written letters to his wife, even hours before the battle that would take his life.

They’re open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

7. If You Lodge Near The Water, Head Home For Lunch

When in Wellington, the location of your lodgings matters. While the price of a downtown hotel or Airbnb will be higher, the time, savings, and ability to go home to make yourself a healthy lunch and rest can make the difference between a long, exhausting day, and two (or three) enjoyable sightseeing sessions. Well rested and well fed.

8. Visit The New Zealand Portrait Gallery

The New Zealand Portrait Gallery contains 14 permanent multi-media exhibits and a visiting installation. Their permanent exhibit includes photographs, paintings, and sometimes audio descriptions. Covering jazz singers and fashion designers, each had some influence on New Zealand, and many were internationally renowned.

They’re open from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

9. Visit The Wellington Museum

We arrived at the Wellington Museum just an hour before closing time and went right up to the Attic, working our way down to see as much as possible. The Attic contains shipwrecks, aliens, children’s activities, and interactive exhibits whose tiger’s roar may make you jump. The first floor focuses on maritime information and a trip through time exhibit.

They’re open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Pro Tip: The movies close before the museum so attend them early.

10. Visit The Botanic Gardens And Carter Observatory

For free, you can hike up to the Botanic Gardens, but for the time, effort, and experience, I recommend taking the cable car round trip from Lambton Quay Terminal to the Kelburn Terminal. You can hop on and off at the Salamanca, Talavera, or Clifton stations to see the murals or surrounding neighborhoods, but continue to the summit for visits to the rose garden or Tree House Visitor Center. If we’d had more time, we would’ve spent it here. Some of their vegetation is unlike anything I’ve seen in the U.S. You’ll spy both blue and pink flowering bougainvillea at the same time. These are beautiful places for photos and weddings.

The Carter Observatory is open for Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday night shows.

11. Take Advantage Of A Pop-Up Shakespeare In The Park

Shakespeare in the Park was performed in a parking lot not far from our apartment. It was hysterical. We were supplied with chairs, blankets, and water as we entered. The actors very much enjoyed all the audience participation during Comedy of Errors. They ran up and down their scaffolding set and found creative ways to indicate the passage of time.

It was a chilly 56 degrees Fahrenheit by the time the performance ended. We were very grateful we lived just a few blocks away and could get home to get warm.

Pro Tip: Check out social media for special events.

Turns out our first day in Wellington, for two, cost us under $50 including groceries. Challenge completed.

1. Cape Reigna

The convergence of two seas (the Pacific and the Tasman) at Cape Reigna is not only powerful but also a sacred site for the Maori people. When you see the lighthouse, you may feel that you’re at the literal end of the Earth, watching the two seas collide in the near distance.

2. Matauri Bay

This is the place where the bombed Greenpeace Rainbow Warrior ship was laid to rest. You can’t see it unless you dive, but the hike to the lookout point is beautiful, and admiring the view once you arrive? Even better. You’ll also be treated to one of Chris Booth’s many sculptures. This one commemorates the ship and uses one of its propellers.

3. Mount Maunganui

Another beautiful lookout point is near Tauranga. Hiking to the top of Mount Maunganui is challenging, especially in hot weather! I almost gave up until I saw a man twice my age heading down from the summit. The view over the water is worth the effort to get there.

4. Waiheke Island

Even if you get lost in the wine tasting, you can’t fail to notice how gorgeous the beaches are on Waiheke Island. I spent a day here, and would happily have spent a long weekend if the Auckland lockdown hadn’t gotten in the way of those plans.

5. Hokitika Gorge

The stunning color of the water against the green of the mountains will take your breath away. The town of Hokitika is a special place, as well, and one of the best places to get some pounamu while in New Zealand.

6. Abel Tasman National Park

You can’t really go wrong with the destination you choose within this national park. Travel is by boat. You can take it to the top and hike all the way back! I hopped off at Anchorage and enjoyed my day walking part of the trail and admiring an inlet — and, later, the main beach.

7. Rotorua Treewalk

To be up high in trees is something rare to experience! When it’s beautifully decorated, it’s another experience altogether. Rotorua Treewalk is not easy for those with a fear of heights, but it’s well worth facing your fear to see.

8. Milford Sound

Everyone raves about the Milford Sound for a reason: It is stunning. Not only is the landscape beautiful, but this was my first time near the Tasman Sea (and by near, I mean, within a few hundred meters), and there was something magical about the entire experience.

9. Hobbiton

This is where the familiar Shire of the Hobbit films was built. I was fortunate to go at a time when only 40 tourists per hour were there, as opposed to the normal 4,000. You will no doubt delight in the tiny houses and the wonderful scenery.

10. Gannett Colony, Napier

While the Gannett colony in Auckland is also stunning, in Napier, you are so close to the birds that it’s startling. Luckily, there’s a chain to keep tourists out of their nesting area. You will delight in watching young birds try to fly for the first time, and in marveling at the adults’ colorful markings.

11. Marsden Cross

There are several tracks to hike here. If you take the one towards the sea (hard to miss!), you will open your mouth and stare at the beautiful scene that meets your eyes. By night, this is a great place to see kiwi birds in nature.

12. Urupukapuka Island

If you do the Hole In The Rock tour, the boat stops at this hard-to-pronounce island. It’s the quintessential New Zealand scene, with sheep on a hill. If you walk beyond the sheep, you won’t know which direction to stare, as they are all stunning.

I crouched down, only slightly nervous, as a massive 16-foot crocodile yawned its gaping jaws full of teeth perfectly designed to rend and tear flesh right behind me. On either side of me, out of the frame of the photo that I was posing for, guides and handlers with the Matt Wright Top End Safari Camp were ready to pounce if that ancient predator made even the slightest movement in my direction, but that day, the beast was content to sun itself on the shore.

We had just come off an airboat tour of Sweet’s Lagoon, a billabong area located roughly an hour and 30 minutes southwest of Darwin, Australia, where crocodiles slid silently along the dark waters and on the shores. One of the guides told me roughly 130 crocs call this stretch of water home, and after spending a few days in Australia’s Northern Territory, I was convinced that even a rain puddle on the street probably had a crocodile lurking in it.

Northern Australia is a wild and wonderful place full of friendly people and balmy weather, but it’s also full of wildlife that is as untamed as the continent itself. In addition to crocodiles, Matt Wright’s Top End Safari Camp had small kangaroo baby-looking wallabies bouncing about, wild and aggressive water buffalo roaming, and maybe, just maybe, one of Northern Australia’s elusive feral camels wandering about.

I came to this wildlife safari camp to see the authentic wilds, but I also wanted a little luxury too. Glamping was the best of both worlds, and in addition to a fabulous meal, guided tours of the area, and a helicopter ride over the “bush,” I got to stay in a wonderful glamping tent under the millions of stars in the Australian sky.

I tried glamping at this Australian crocodile safari camp, and it was incredible.

Why I Went

I wanted to camp during my 2-week solo trek through Australia’s Northern Territory, but I, like most foreigners, was a little wary about doing it on my own. As a hosted guest of NT Australia, I was invited to stay a night at Matt Wright’s Top End Safari Camp.

If the name Matt Wright sounds familiar, you aren’t wrong. The star of National Geographic’s hit TV show Outback Wrangler, Matt is also an adventurer of the finest caliber, working during his life as a horse wrangler, Australian Army soldier, crocodile egg collector, helicopter pilot, wildlife relocator, and award-winning tourism operator.

He also shares his love for the Australian Outback and the wildlife at his safari camp and overnight tour, which includes guided crocodile encounters and feeding, an airboat cruise with knowledgeable guides, dinner on an open star deck, deluxe lotus belle tents to sleep in, a big ol’ barbecue breakfast, and a 10-minute helicopter scenic tour — all in one package.

I drove my rental car for the roughly 2-hour trek to the Top End Safari Camp, but the experience also has air-conditioned coach transfers from Darwin City. I like driving (even on the “wrong side of the road” from what I was used to), and because I left a little early, I was able to stop off at one of Northern Australia’s famed roadhouses, The Sandpalms Roadhouse and Tropical Motel for a snack and conversation with the locals.

The roadhouses are a unique feature along the highways in the Australian Outback, acting as part fuel stop, part restaurant, park accommodation, and part gimmick. Some include emu enclosures, crocodiles out back, and even giant fiberglass aliens, but all are a great place to stop for a cool drink and a meal.

Crocs And Wallabies Up Close

I wanted an authentic experience in some of Australia’s wildest places, and Matt Wright’s Top End Safari Camp didn’t disappoint. As soon as I arrived, I was checked in with the rest of the visitors and we loaded up on buses to go down to the “dock” where the airboats and river boat waited.

Signs along the water warned us all not to get too close to the water’s edge, because, well, crocodiles. Little forearm-length baby crocs wallowed in the waters close to shore and above, an eagle perched at the top of a dead tree to eye for easy fish in the waters.

As we sped through the lagoon on the airboats, which were imported from Florida, we spied lazy crocs sunning in the grasses and along the shores while the guides shared information about the ecology and the animals themselves.

At one point, one of the guides grabbed a croc by its jaws to open its mouth, and I nearly fell into the water with shock. Sadly, the crocodile had part of its lower jaw missing thanks to a fight with another territorial male, so we were able to see its teeth and jaws up close with little danger.

“He’s able to feed himself, yeah?” I asked.

“Yeah, yeah, he feeds himself alright. He’s opportunistic. He’ll take advantage of what other crocodiles have killed and partly eaten,” said our guide in his thick Aussie accent.

After the airboat ride, we boarded a large passenger boat for a leisurely cruise along the lagoon to spot birds, more crocodiles, and other wildlife. When I say this part of Australia is full of crocodiles, I’m not kidding.

After the boat safaris, we went to meet the resident caged crocodiles at the camp, large beasts wallowing in shallow ponds who were lured out with chunks of feral pig on a stick. The largest of those beasts was the one we all posed with.

Fun Fact: Sweet’s Lagoon is named after the 16-foot saltwater crocodile, “Sweetheart,” who roamed the area and chased visiting boats. Authorities attempted to trap Sweetheart for relocation, but the massive creature drowned in the attempted removal. He weighed 1,719 pounds, and his body is on display in Darwin’s Museum and Art Gallery.

Glamping

Matt’s Top End Safari Camp’s overnight excursion includes a night in a belle tent on the property. The roomy tent was outfitted with a comfortable double bed, a small table and chairs, and an outdoor open-air shower and sink system. The camp only offers shared bathroom facilities, however.

After a full communal dinner cooked by the staff at the camp, we sat under the night sky and around a cozy firepit to share travel stories, sip on local beer and cocktails, and watch the little wallabies hop across the yard.

Usually, when the skies are clear, guests have the chance to learn about the night sky and the constellations during a stargazing program, but an unusually rainy cloudy day took that experience away from us that night.

The tents are sturdy and comfortable, but in the dead of night, the sounds of mysterious animals rustling through the brush made me curious if I was hearing wallabies and rabbits or if one of those giant crocodiles was hunting back there. I was assured that crocs are pretty lazy creatures in general, so it was highly unlikely they would leave the comforts of the water to roam across the land.

The next morning, we split into groups to do our 10-minute helicopter sightseeing tour, and I was among those in the first group. While the staff cooked up a mighty breakfast of eggs, bacon, skillet potatoes, and fresh bread, I boarded the small helicopter to get a bird’s eye view of the land.

Flying over Sweet’s Lagoon is a vastly different experience than cruising along its waters, and from the air, we could see a herd of feral water buffalo grazing. Australia has two types of invasive buffalo, which numbered as many as 350,000 prior to extensive culling to control the population in the 1980s. According to The Australian Government, “Between 1825 and 1843, about 80 buffalo were brought to Melville Island and Cobourg Peninsula for meat. When these settlements were abandoned in the mid-1900s, the buffalo soon colonised the permanent and semi-permanent swamps, and freshwater springs of the top end of the Northern Territory.”

Feral pigs are also a problem throughout the Northern Territory, though the feral camels that roam the desert areas here do not seem to cause quite as much damage.

Funny Fact: Australia is home to the largest population of feral camels in the world. The camel farms in this continent actually export camels to the Middle East!

All in all, I was impressed and thrilled with my experience of glamping at an Australian crocodile safari camp and found the experience to be one of my favorite days during my 2-week adventure in Australia’s Northern Territory.

Pro Tip: The best time to visit the Northern Territory’s Top End is during the “winter” dry months between May and October. While the rest of Australia shivers in the cold winter, the Top End stays warm and balmy thanks to its tropical climate. The summer months tend to be very hot, humid, and rainy.

I sat cross-legged on the ground in front of two local Anangu artists who demonstrated the art of Aboriginal dot painting, those swirled, dot-filled creations that define some of the Aboriginal artists of Northern Territory, Australia.

As the artists made shapes in the dirt in front of us, they explained what each symbol represented. The swirly circles can mean “waterhole” or “an important place.” Two half-moon shapes sitting across from each other with indentions alongside them represent two women working together, the indentions representing their digging sticks and the wooden bowls they use for collecting.

Around me, children watched on as rapt as I did, all of us anxious to use our new knowledge and imagination to create Aboriginal dot paintings of our own at the Maruku Dot Painting Experience at Ayers Rock Resort Village in Yulara. Behind us, the looming visage of Uluru (formerly called Ayers Rock) rose in the distance, an ever-present monolith of cultural importance to the Indigenous peoples of Australia.

Australia is home to 250 distinct language groups of Aboriginal Australians who are split into two groups: the ones who already lived in Australia when the British began colonizing in 1788, and those who descend from the Torres Strait Islands, now part of Queensland. What’s more, the Aboriginal people of Australia have lived on the continent for more than 50,000 years, making them possibly the oldest population of humans living outside of Africa.

Throughout my 2-week hosted tour of Northern Territory, Australia, I was able to connect, meet, and share experiences with many of Australia’s native peoples. In these experiences, I learned about creation stories, bushcraft, art, and the tragic history of how these native populations were treated during colonization.

If you are visiting Australia’s Northern Territory, here are seven authentic Aboriginal experiences you can have, enjoy, and learn from.

1. Guluyambi Cultural Cruise

Kakadu Cultural Tours

Northern Australia’s Kakadu National Park’s 7,722-square-mile lush wilderness is a World Heritage destination full of both cultural and natural wonders. With millions of migratory birds calling the wetlands home, Kakadu’s rainforests, rocky gorges, billabongs, and rivers also contain some of the oldest Indigenous rock art in the world.

There are more than 5,000 Aboriginal rock art sites in the park. The Bininj/Mungguy people have lived in the Kakadu area for roughly 65,000 years and the park has plenty of ways to learn about their ancient culture.

My first stop at Kakadu was on the Guluyambi Cultural Cruise, which is hosted by local Aboriginal guides who share their culture, local mythology, bushcraft (traditional uses for plants and animals), and the legends and ecology of the East Alligator River.

This small-group boat tour is 100 percent Aboriginal-owned and operated, and along the one-and-a-half-hour tour, we spotted saltwater crocodiles and the waterfowl of the area and learned about the sacred lands just past the river. Our guide shared traditional tools and weapons used by the people in the area and kept us rapt with the cultural stories of his people. 

Pro Tip: The Guluyambi Cultural Cruise starts at the Upstream Boat Ramp roughly 45 minutes from Jabiru. If you are making the 4-hour drive from Darwin on the Arnhem Highway, turn north onto the Oenpelli Road just west of Jabiru. You’ll pass some pretty spectacular scenery and rock formations. Just follow the signs and you shouldn’t get lost.

2. Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre

Kakadu National Park

If you are staying at the Cooinda Lodge at Kakadu National Park like I did, the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre is an easy 10-minute walk from the lodge and well worth visiting. The center, which is free and open to the public for self-guided tours, shares the creation stories of the Aboriginal peoples of the area, as well as artifacts like clap sticks (used to communicate and make music), rock art samples, weaving techniques, and more. 

The center also has a large gift store that sells locally created items and art from the Aboriginal community, and a mini-theater has a huge selection of films to watch that tie into Australian culture.

Pro Tip: Don’t miss taking the Yellow Water Sunrise Cruise while in Kakadu, which is hosted by Yellow Water Cruises. All the guides have the Kakadu Knowledge Certificate, which means they can share insights into how the Bininj peoples lived along the Yellow Water Billabong. Plus, the sunrises in Australia are just spectacular.

3. Alice Springs Cultural Activities

A short flight from Darwin, Alice Springs is located in what is known as the Red Centre in Northern Australia, and this city is home to tons of Aboriginal experiences. The Araluen Cultural Precinct includes Araluen Arts Centre, Strehlow Research Centre, Museum of Central Australia, and the Central Craft studio and retail outlet. 

Right next door to the Araluen is the Central Australian Aviation Museum, which focuses on Australia’s aviation history and culture, and you can start a journey on the Territory Arts Trail, which celebrates Aboriginal artists and artwork from the broader central desert regions.

While in Alice Springs, I took a private tour of the MacDonnell Ranges with Sandrifter Safaris, which included stops at sacred spots like the Ilparpa Range and Yeperenye “Caterpillar” Dreaming, plus a local Aboriginal guided hike at Standley Chasm.

4. Kings Canyon And Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Experience Tour

Located halfway between Alice Springs and Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, Kings Canyon and the iconic Kings Canyon Rim Walk in the heart of Australia’s Red Centre were formed over 400 million years. This is a wild, gorgeous landscape full of soaring canyon walls and lush pools. 

It’s also the traditional home of the Luritja and Arrente peoples for more than 20,000 years, and you can get firsthand knowledge of their culture and way of life with the Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Experience Tour. This one-of-a-kind tour hosted by brother-and-sister team Peter and Natasha offers a 1-hour cultural experience as lived by the local Luritja and Pertame people of Central Australia.

In addition to learning about the weapons and tools, visitors can learn about the traditional foods — including a plump grub called a Witchitty Grub — watch to see how traditional beads and jewelry are made, learn about dot painting and symbology and hear the sacred chants and songs of the area.

Pro Tip: The Kings Canyon Rim Walk is a famous hike in the area. It’s a nearly 4-mile walk around the canyon rim, during which you will have to climb 500 steep steps to get to the top of the canyon. Set aside about 3 or 4 hours for this hike, which goes over some rough terrain and includes ladders and steps. It’s best to tackle this hike at sunrise so you can watch the sun crest the canyon — and before it gets too hot.

5. Uluru Tour And Cultural Center

Uluru is a World Heritage Park and perhaps the most recognizable and famous feature in the Australian Outback. Rising up as a massive monolith from the flat surroundings, the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park also holds centuries of cultural importance and history for the Aboriginal tribes of the area.

One of the best ways to discover Uluru in a day is with SEIT Outback Australia, a small group tour company specializing in interpretive touring with experiences like a tour of Uluru with a traditional owner, a day trip to traditional Aboriginal homelands at Cave Hill, and more. On this gilded tour of the base of Uluru, you can visit culturally-significant areas like the Mutitjulu waterhole, see ancient rock paintings while hearing creation stories, and learn about how Aboriginal people lived in the area.

At Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, the Cultural Centre is a place of learning that celebrates and recognizes the Anangu people (Aboriginal people from the Western and Central Deserts of Australia) and their lore through exhibits and free presentations with Anangu and park rangers. It also has a few Aboriginal art galleries with local artists on site.

Pro Tip: If you go during the winter months of May through October, bring a heavy jacket, a hat, and gloves. The temperatures drop well below freezing in this part of Central Australia.

6. Maruku Dot Painting Experience

One of the most popular experiences is the Maruku Dot Painting Experience workshop with the local Anangu artists, held in the Ayers Rock Resort area. The artists walk you through the traditional practice of Aboriginal dot painting, the symbols and tools used, and how dot painting (which came about in the 1950s) came to represent the Aboriginal people of Central Australia. 

This experience was among my favorite because of the knowledge and patience of the two women leading the workshop. 

The class had everyone from small children to folks in their 70s, and we all created our own works of art based on the lore these women shared. We even learned a few Pitjantjatjara words (Pitjantjatjara is a local language spoken by Anangu).

Maruku Arts is a collective of more than 900 Anangu artists from throughout the Western and Central Deserts of Australia. This collective has been going strong as a non-profit craft corporation for more than 30 years. Maruku is owned and operated by Anangu. For over 30 years, Maruku has made the arts and culture of the Anangu accessible in an authentic way.

Pro Tip: Wear something you don’t mind getting messy as you will be working with paints. Also, it’s a good idea to reserve a spot early as these classes tend to sell out quickly.

7. Gallery Of Central Australia

Also located at the Ayers Rock Resort area of Yulara is the Gallery of Central Australia, which just opened in late 2021. This collective art gallery brings together Indigenous communities to share their artwork, their stories, and their culture from smaller art communities throughout Central Australia. 

Some of these small art communities are in the most remote areas of the Central and Western Desert regions, so the gallery serves as a hub for artists to display and sell their artwork. Because of the continued support of visitors, the art and culture is kept alive in the communities and beyond.

Central Australian Indigenous artists also participate in the GoCA Artist in Residence program, during which they create, exhibit, and sell their art while living at the resort. 

Pro Tip: The GoCA is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Also, the Ayers Rock Resort supports the Anangu Communities Foundation, which benefits the Anangu communities through health, education, and economic, and social participation. So far, the foundation has given more than $1 million for community projects, and Ayers Rock Resort matches all guest contributions dollar-for-dollar, up to $200,000 each year. 

This list is just a small selection of Aboriginal experiences one can enjoy in Australia’s Northern Territory — and only the ones I participated in. Whether you choose from this list or find other experiences to try, learning about Australia’s Aboriginal and Indigenous cultures is a vital part of understanding its history and its people.

For more Australia inspiration, consider

• 9 Fantastic Experiences In The Wild Town Of Darwin, Australia
• 7 Reasons You’ll Love This Lesser-Known Australian Island Home To Thousands Of Little Penguins
• One Place You Don’t Have On Your Australia Travel Itinerary, But Definitely Should

If you’ve ever heard the adage about visiting Oceania “Spend half the time you think you’ll need in Australia and double in New Zealand,” you’re likely speaking with an outdoor enthusiast. Obviously, you could spend a lifetime exploring these islands, but no matter how long your stay, you owe it to yourself to try at least a few of these incredible outdoor activities.

Auckland

1. Sky Tower

August 2022 marks 25 years since the Sky Tower opened in Auckland. Confirm your tickets online or in person to ascend 51 flights in this Space Needle-type structure and take a walk along the exterior path. After all, your instructor will inform you, “It’s the same width as the sidewalk below.” Trust me when I tell you that makes it no less terrifying. You could bungie jump if you’d rather take a different plunge. But if you trust the equipment and follow the instructions, you’ll have awesome 360-degree views of the islands and scenery around Auckland.

2. America’s Cup Yacht Racing

Head to the Waitemata Harbor and climb aboard one of the two yachts that have raced in the America’s Cup. Along the harbor, you’ll race — each crew playing a part — around the island and against each other. A chance to pull the lines, steer, or sit back and enjoy the company makes this a trip to remember.

Rotorua

If you drive from Auckland, the first two experiences are between Auckland and Rotorua, so consider that in your navigation. Otherwise, backtrack for a tour.

3. Waitomo Glowworms

Glowworms light up caves in Australia and New Zealand, with the abundance here in Rotorua and in the Bay of Islands. Here, you can inner tube through this eerily-lit path and hear the history. If you miss them here, visit the cave in the Bay of Islands which offers a walk-through experience.

4. Hobbiton

Built after the second set of movies, the Alexander Farms location is now a living theme park complete with tiny Hobbit homes and a working farm. Co-owned by the farmer and The Lord of the Rings director Peter Jackson, you can only enter the property on a confirmed tour.

5. Maori Dinner And Cultural Experience

This not-to-be-missed opportunity takes busloads full of travelers to experience life in a Maori Village. You’ll have the chance to view how the Maori people lived and hear tales of their culture and beliefs. You’ll also grow to appreciate the war-like greetings exchanged between the man — yes, it’s always a man — in your group and the chief of the Maori. I was saddened to hear the Maori people are now considered “extinct” as there is no documented 100-percent Maori female alive, but the culture remains strong.

They’ll show you how food was cooked in deep pits and then share the feast with you. Their dances and stories, music and legends were amongst the most meaningful of our journey.

6. Visit Black Swans

Walk around the sulfur-smelling downtown and visit the playground by the lake to see a bank of black swans on land become a wedge as they take to the air. They’re remarkably accustomed to people. If they’re a bit skittish, spend some time on the swings and they’ll calm down.

Wellington

7. Mount Victoria

The hills over the harbor were used in The Lord of the Rings. Look from Mount Victoria, a particularly narrow and curvy drive from the city, and see how Peter Jackson used his home country in so many ways for his series of J.R.R. Tolkien movies. The green space here created by the colonial New Zealand Company in 1841 is used by locals, tourists, and movie directors alike. Allow 90 minutes to walk the 2.9-mile loop.

8. Botanic Gardens

Whether you ascend on foot, bus, car, or funicular, the Wellington Botanic Gardens offers lovely green space in this busy city. The round-trip funicular ride is surprisingly affordable. The spectacular views from in and around the gardens allow insight to ongoing preservation work. Better still, the Carter Observatory offers programs at Space Place to explore New Zealand’s contributions to astronomy.

Picton

Take the Cook Strait Ferry from Wellington to Picton or vice versa, just be sure to book in the proper direction. For privacy and comfort, book a stateroom to rest, relax, and recharge during the crossing.

Nelson

Everything in this corner of the country seems to create healthy, happy people. The recognized artist colony capital, visit golden beaches and farmers markets, cycle or kayak on these sunny shores, and learn that a weekend is not enough.

9. Fox And Franz Josef Glaciers

For great hikes and views, take the time to visit these two glaciers in the middle of the South Island. Franz Josef, the more popular by far, has multiple trails to hike in and out to the glacier. Fox Glacier provides more of a “drive-thru” experience where you can pull to the designated spot, jump out for your photo opportunity, and continue on your way. Cell phone reception is spotty here, so make your housing reservations well in advance.

Queenstown

Queenstown is used as the jumping off point for many outdoor adventures as well as having many water and winter sports an easy ride from downtown.

10. Milford Sound

An early morning bus tour takes you to Milford Sound Marina where you’ll board a boat that takes you along this incredible waterway. You’ll be amazed at how much it reminds you of the United States’ Puget Sound but with higher and faster flowing waterfalls. Spot seals basking in the sun or family members caught in the waterfall spray.

If you’ve got the budget-busting $1,500 to spend, consider a helicopter ride home. It’s faster than the bus and allows you to land on a glacier. Do yourself the favor of arranging it in advance for a more economical alternative.

11. The Remarkables

Peter Jackson used this mountain range so often in The Lord of the Rings that the locals took to calling them the “Expandables.” His use of perspective made them bigger or smaller as the film required. They’re a great place for hikes or ski trips, depending on the season. They’re also where you can take a tour and go panning for gold. You may find a few flakes or a small chunk of gold.

Christchurch

12. Avon River Punting 

Plan to stay at an AirBnB as there are still not as many hotel rooms available for tourism in this Garden City. When we were there, it wasn’t possible to explore inside the cathedral due to earthquake damage. We took a package tour that included the trolley-like tram, the gondola, and punting on the Avon River — where you glide along the center city green space in a slow and peaceful experience away from the daily hustle and bustle.

13. Gondola

The majestic views of the Southern Alps from the Christchurch Gondola Ride is worthy of your time at least once. From Mount Cavendish, you’ll see the Canterbury Plains as well as the city and harbor from the summit at 1,460 feet.

14. The White Chairs

This white chair monument to the 185 people that perished in the 2011 earthquake may be the most somber memorial in the country. It takes some effort to find, but spend a few minutes walking around the exhibit, one for each person, from baby chair to wheelchair. It’s heartbreaking. 

Dunedin

While the Cadbury Factory operating plant has relocated to Melbourne, there’s still more to see in Dunedin.

15. The Beaches

The windswept beaches of Dunedin are recognized as some of the most gorgeous in the country, and that’s saying something.

16. Steepest Street In The World

I’m not sure why it’s located here, but I can tell you Baldwin Street is a difficult climb. Guinness Book of World Records confirmed the title officially in 2020. At 1,150 feet long and a grade up to 34.8 percent, this cul-de-sac ends on Signal Hill. Stop regularly when walking up the hill to avoid feeling short-winded and to stretch your calves. You’ll be amazed at the angle the curb appears compared to the houses.

Whakatāne

The location we thought we’d call home, we had to stop to see the house I’d arranged to rent in 2010.

17. Best Surfing Beach

The walk along the shore showed us why this is considered one of the best surfing beaches in the country.

18. White Island

An offshore volcano, this self-sustaining island continues to experience volcanic eruptions today.

Bay Of Islands

Stay at the California Kiwi’s AirBnB for 5 days or more and receive trips on a yacht. But take the day tours in the north.

19. 90-Mile Beach

Like Washington state, this “90-mile beach” is considered part of New Zealand’s highway system. What makes it remarkable is it’s only 62 miles long. You may be surprised by an albatross, a drug bust, or remarkable views.

20. Sandboarding Down Sand Dunes

Our driver pulled out boogie boards and invited us to climb up the 12-story sand dunes for a quick ride down. It’s a workout to get up the dune. Lay on your belly, speed headfirst down the dune, and descend in about a minute.

21. Cape Reinga Lighthouse

A beautiful lighthouse on what seems to be the end of the world, you’ll meet people from around the globe climbing down these paths.

22. Yacht Races

If you’re lucky enough to live like a local, take advantage of the Wednesday yacht races. Whether you’re an expert sailor or along as ballast, you and your host may be surprised to find a win!

Be sure​​ to read up on New Zealand before your next trip:

• The Stunning Train Trip You Must Experience In New Zealand
• 32 Words To Know If You Want To Sound Like A Local In New Zealand
• 17 Things To Know Before Your First Trip To New Zealand

I was barely off a 20-hour flight before I was face-to-face with the biggest crocodile I’ve ever seen. Mere inches away from my own gaping mouth was a maw full of teeth as long as my fingers and the golden eye of an apex predator focused on my tender meat suit with what I was convinced was hunger…

Encased in a transparent plastic “cage,” I watched as the giant saltwater crocodile circled around me, its massive body barely making a ripple in the water. With a 3-ton bite force, this ancient creature is the ultimate stealth hunter — and I was in the water with him in the aptly named “Cage of Death” at Crocosaurus Cove in the Northern Territory city of Darwin, Australia.

As a hosted guest of Northern Territory, Australia, Darwin was my home base for nearly a week. This city of roughly 81,000 is full of casual beaches, art galleries and museums, Aboriginal culture, buzzing night markets, an international and exciting food scene, and friendly folks.

So, if you find yourself craving adventure, fun, and balmy days, here are nine fantastic experiences in the wild town of Darwin, Australia.

1. Crocosaurus Cove

The giant saltwater crocodiles of Australia are creatures of myth and legend, and at Darwin’s Crocosaurus Cove, you can come face to face and learn all the fascinating facts about these fearsome creatures.

Home to the world’s largest display of Australian reptiles, The Crocosaurus Cove Reptile House lets you meet and even hold reptiles of all shapes and sizes, while the new Whipray Encounter lets you learn about this little-known 6-foot-long freshwater species of stingray.

In addition to educational programs, giant crocodiles, photoshoots with baby crocs, and reptile shows, by far the most popular and extreme experience is the famed Cage of Death, where brave souls are lowered into the water with one of the saltwater crocodiles named Wendell, Baru, Leo, William, or Kate for 15 minutes. The controlled and safe environment promises to be a memorable experience for the visitor while adding enrichment activities for the croc.

This was by far one of my favorite experiences in Darwin. While my friend and hostess Alice braved her terror of these salties in the cage with me, I had my face plastered to the walls of the cage, fascinated with the sensation of being this close to one of the world’s fiercest hunters. 

Pro Tip: This is an extremely popular experience, so book your Cage of Death appointment as early as possible. Be sure to bring a swimsuit because you will be about chest-deep in water, holding your breath to dip below the water to gaze upon the croc. You will also have to be able to climb up and down a ladder to get into the cage.

2. Explore Darwin’s Waterfront Precinct

Take advantage of the free recreation, live music, great food, and a stellar view of Darwin’s harbor at the Darwin Waterfront Precinct, a kind of community meeting place filled with fun, shopping, and events.

The Waterfront Beach Club and the Wave Lagoon are fun ways to enjoy the water without worrying about crocs or stinging jellyfish. The Wave Lagoon is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and features 43,000 square feet of water, including a shallow water play area for younger children.

The Recreation Lagoon at the Waterfront is Darwin’s only man-made beach lagoon, but you can also enjoy an Aqua Park, public playgrounds, maintained walking trails, and a shopping district. 

With more than 15 bars and restaurants in the area, you can taste dishes from around the world while listening to live music or taking part in one of the many community festivals held here.

Pro Tip: The Waterfront Precinct is a great “home base” for your stay in Darwin, as this area has everything you may need while traveling. Check out The Vibe Hotel, which is located right in the middle of all the action.

3. Wander The Street Markets

“You have to try laksa,” said Alice Foster with Northern Territory Tourism one morning as she picked me up for another fun day in Darwin. “It’s legendary. Everyone here goes to the markets to get laksa for breakfast, especially on the weekends.”

I was game to try this Asian noodle curry soup, which has become a kind of locals-only secret breakfast tradition amongst those “in the know.” The best place to score this savory, curry-coconut broth noodle soup is at one of Darwin’s local markets or night markets.

We headed to the Parap Markets, which is a favorite among locals, to peruse the local produce and the handcrafted arts and to taste cuisine from around the world.

The Saturday morning Parap Market is an institution in Darwin and very nearly a ritual for locals who can’t survive a weekend without this soup or fresh tropical smoothie. Much of the Northern Territory is a hub for traditional Indigenous culture and a thriving Asian culture.

On Sundays and Thursday nights, explore the Mindil Beach Sunset Market, located within walking distance of the Mindil Beach Casino and Resort (which is a fantastic place to stay). This popular night market’s 200 unique stalls sell everything from local and international cuisine to handcrafted didgeridoos to clothing, whips, and even Thai massage.

4. Drive To Kakadu National Park

Darwin is often called the “gateway to Kakadu National Park,” one of the largest national parks in Australia. Within the 7,722-square-mile park, you can hike through pristine bushland, explore roaring waterfalls, take educational river cruises to spot crocs in the wild and other species, learn and experience Aboriginal culture, witness world-class rock art and world-class rock art, and absorb the true spirit of the land.

After a night at the Cooinda Lodge, I woke early for a sunrise cruise in the famed Yellow Water Billabong with Yellow Water Cruises. The billabong (an Australian term for an oxbow lake or an isolated body of water left behind after the wet season’s floods) is located along the tributary of the South Alligator River in Kakadu and is home to at least 60 of Australia’s bird species.

Also, visit the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre, which is an easy 10-minute walk from Cooinda Lodge. This center celebrates the creation stories of the Indigenous peoples, includes a wonderful exhibition of Aboriginal items, and even has a mini-theater with a big selection of films you can choose from. The gift shop has plenty of souvenirs and local art to browse as well.

Pro Tip: The drive from Darwin to Kakadu National Park in Jabiru is roughly 3 and a half hours. Be aware that Australians drive on the left and have their steering wheel on the right side of the car. It’s a little weird at first if you aren’t used to “driving on the wrong side of the road,” but I caught on super quick.

5. Explore The Swimming Holes At Litchfield National Park

If Kakadu National Park is a bit too far of a drive, visit Litchfield National Park instead. Just a 2-hour drive from Darwin, Litchfield is home to stunning waterfalls ranging from thundering cascades to soothing streams. I swam beneath the towering double Florence Falls in its deep, cool plunge pool and lounged at Buley Rockhole’s numerous waterfalls and waterholes. I gazed at the thundering Wangi Falls, where we couldn’t swim thanks to a lingering crocodile they couldn’t remove after the wet season.

Litchfield also has a viewing site for the Magnetic Termite Mounds, home to hundreds of giant mounds built by termites during the wet season. Some of these mounds are more than 100 years old.

Pro Tip: One of the most surprising and slightly terrifying situations we had to deal with was a particularly aggressive hawk at the Wangi Falls picnic site. Because visitors have a bad habit of feeding these birds, this hawk literally swooped down to snatch a sandwich out of Alice’s hand while she was eating it!

6. Explore Museums And Galleries

For a truly authentic look at Australia, the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory in Darwin is the best place to see Aboriginal art, sculpture, paintings, musical instruments, and demonstrations of Aboriginal art.

The museum also delves into the unique maritime history of this Australian seaport, including the devastation that Darwin survived during the Japanese bombing during World War II and Cyclone Tracy, which nearly wiped this city off the map.

The Darwin Military Museum is an extensive deep dive into Darwin’s role in World War II. Located at East Point, this museum features actual WWII fortifications and commemorates the February 19, 1942 attack on Darwin’s harbor, when 188 Japanese aircraft launched the first and largest foreign attack on Australia’s borders.

Located in the almost 100-year-old Lyons Cottage, Aboriginal Bush Traders art gallery has books, hand-made jewelry, large canvas paintings, and other arts under one roof. You can also try some local superfoods like Kakadu plum, desert lime, and wild rosella at the on-site bushtucker cafe.

If you hit up the Parap Markets for your Saturday morning Laksa, be sure to visit the Northern Centre for Contemporary Art and the upstairs Outstation Gallery that displays the art of local and established Indigenous artists from remote communities across the Northern Territory.

7. Beer Can Races And Cocktails — Find A Festival

The balmy warm year-round weather in Darwin means there’s never a “bad” time to host a festival. Darwinians love to celebrate, and the festivals here in this fun-loving town range from cocktail competitions to craft fairs to races. There’s usually some kind of festival or special event going on every weekend.

I was lucky to catch the famous Darwin Lions Beer Can Regatta, in which people build boats out of beer cans with the hopes of winning the Beer Can Regatta Race. This all-day, family-friendly event features some pretty creative ways to build a boat from beer cans, but the event is all for a good cause. The money raised goes to area charities, and in addition to the beer can race itself, the day is full of various competitions, entertainment, and fun.

Other fun festivals held throughout the year include the Thrash Magic Black Light Puppet Theatre, the Desert Harmony Festival, several cultural Aboriginal festivals, and more. For a full list of events and festivals that are coming up in Darwin, check out the Northern Territory event page.

8. Hop On A Harbor Cruise

During my 2 weeks in Australia’s Northern Territory, I witnessed some of the most dramatic and stunning sunsets I’d seen in my life. Something about the southern hemisphere causes the sky to burn with an out-of-this-world fire when the sun sinks into the horizon, and the best way to really appreciate the sight is with a dinner cruise.

Although you have plenty of options for harbor cruises in Darwin, I chose a relaxing sunset dinner cruise with Cape Adieu. This cruise on a traditional fishing ketch includes tapas appetizers, a barbecue and seafood dinner, and plenty of drinks to buy. The tour lasts roughly 2 hours and includes information about the historic and notable sites around the harbor.

When the sun finally set, there wasn’t a bad seat on the boat to watch the colors swirl from peach to hellfire red as the sun put on its show.

9. Catch A Movie At The Deckchair Cinema

One of the most unique activities to try in Darwin is the Darwin Film Society’s Deckchair Cinema, a fun, outdoor cinema experience located at the edge of Darwin Harbor. Grab a cocktail and enjoy the always-impressive sunset before enjoying a range of movies that include family favorites and Australian and foreign films from the comfort of 250 deckchairs and 150 straight-backed seats.

The Deckchair Cinema is open seven nights a week during the dry season (April to November) and offers a full range of drinks and hot food.

It was when I lived in Melbourne, Victoria, that I first heard of Phillip Island, and it was the penguins that first caught my attention. I mean, who doesn’t love a cute penguin? I had seen penguins in Australia before, down on St. Kilda Pier in Melbourne, when a sighting of a dozen or so utterly thrilled me. I had even seen one lonesome penguin swim in the bay in broad daylight, but the Penguin Parade on the island promised to be something rather special.

Imagine my surprise when I not only saw penguins but found a little paradise a mere 90-minute drive from Melbourne. It’s a wildlife haven, so relaxing and so full of natural beauty that I came back countless times — in all the seasons — and simply fell in love with this gorgeous part of Australia.

Here are some of my main reasons to fall in love with Phillip Island.

1. The Penguins

Well, of course, the penguins are the main reason. For me at least. There are not one, or a dozen; there are thousands of the tiny little Fairy Penguins, and you don’t have to leave meeting them up to chance.

The Penguin Parade on Phillip Island might look at first sight like a typical tourist trap: a purpose-built center with seating and walkways across the dunes to allow the many visitors to gawk at the little birds coming home in the evening after a long day’s swimming, diving, and feeding out in the freezing cold ocean.

But whilst you can’t deny the popularity, the center is also a place of research dedicated to keeping these little birds happy and alive. The crowds are supervised, no shouting, no flash photography, no getting in people’s, let alone penguins’ way. Rangers patrol the spectacle and do not hesitate to tell anybody off who may be tempted to break the rules, allowing the penguins to get on with their daily routine, and the humans to be utterly spellbound.

2. The Other Oh-So-Cute Animals

As we all know, Australia is full of cute animals, and penguins are only the start. How about koalas, and then some? The island and the waters around it are full of resources needed to attract a myriad of animals. There are some 250 species of birds, including both residents and migratory visitors.

Apart from the feathered friends, there are also plenty of wallabies, koalas, and seals. It is on Phillip Island that I saw my first echidna, the Australian version of a hedgehog. While you are usually lucky to spot wallabies around and can go on boat trips to see the seals up close, koalas can often be hidden away; so why not go to the Koala Conservation Reserve on the island, just to be sure you see at least one of these cute critters?

Pro Tip

If you are on the island around 11:30 a.m. and are admiring all the pelicans flying overhead, there is a simple explanation. At 12 p.m. sharp, at San Remo Pier at the bottom of the bridge that connects the island to the mainland, the by-now traditional pelican feeding time takes place every day.

And you can apparently set your clock by the pelicans leaving the island for their daily lunchtime fish treat. The noise and craziness of all the pelicans are wonderful to watch, especially as they took me by surprise on my first visit because I would have sworn that pelicans are more tropical birds rather than temperate climate residents.

3. The Nobbies

Alternatively, you can try and spot some seals and wallabies on a walk along the Nobbies, at the other end of the island, yet only a 10-minute drive away. This rocky and wild end of the island is made up of cliffs and tiny, craggy islets, presided over by a large visitors’ center that sells a rather good hot chocolate and cheesecake, by the way.

There are a few boardwalks that lead you past penguin hollows, past stunning scenery and look-out points, to windy outposts that will quite literally take your breath away. While lovely in the sunshine, this place is even more stunning in windy, cold weather with the waves crashing on the rocks, and the occasional seal sliding into the water from the cliffs.

Do peek into every little hollow you see, quite often some penguins forgo a day at sea and stay put, and you’ll spot them peeking right back at you.

4. The Natural Beauty And Trails

The island is a bit of a paradise for both animals and humans: the habitats vary from mangroves to wetlands, from sandy beaches to rocky shores, and exploring (either by car or preferably on long hikes) is essential. For utter tranquility, head down to Swan Lake, famous for — you’ve guessed it — its black swans.

In the south, Cape Woolamai has a series of spectacular hiking trails across the cape that range from 2.5 to 5.5 miles in length. From Phillip Island’s highest point, walkers can take in breath-taking views of jagged cliffs that have been shaped by wind and wild southern waves over thousands of years.

Try the Cape Woolamai circuit walk, which takes you around the cape including the spiky Pinnacles rocks. This is a 5.3-mile roundtrip that takes roughly 3 hours. Though there are some steep bits, it’s an overall moderate to slightly difficult walk, worth it for the scenery and views.

The Pyramid Rock Walk takes you to the secluded Berrys Beach, and you are practically guaranteed to bump into some wallabies, especially if you walk early in the morning or later in the afternoon. Or you can follow along the wooden boardwalk through the Rhyll Inlet, which is flat, easy, and enjoyable.

A trail best followed by car is the official Artists & Creators Trail, which takes you across the island, to all the best galleries, studios, and workshops of local artists and creators showcasing their work.

5. The Food And Drink

In Australia, you cannot go far without stumbling across a vineyard or some superb food. On Phillip Island, there are both vineyards and local microbreweries, Purple Hen Winery, and Phillip Island Winery are two island boutique wineries producing high-quality cool climate wines not readily available on the mainland. Both offer full cellar door facilities including wine tastings, light lunches, and cheese platters.

The lawn at Phillip Island Winery is a beautiful spot to spend a warm Sunday afternoon, with regular live music events taking place. Check their Facebook page for what’s on. And for beer lovers, try the Phillip Island Brewing Company.

For a relaxed meal, head to Fig & Olive, where they serve a decent steak and very fresh seafood, but also pasta and pizza, fries with aioli, and share boards.  For a wonderful Australian breakfast, go to MadCowes Café and order the eggs Benedict.

6. The Multi-Generational Fun

Phillip Island has something for all generations and interests. For the petrol heads, for whom there might nearly be too much nature, there is the Phillip Island racetrack, which hosts the Australian GP, World Superbikes, Hot Laps, go-karting, V8 supercars, and other racing events.

For the grandkids, there is fun to be had at A Maze’N’Things. Chocolate lovers are well-served, as are aerial adventurists, with helicopter flights that give you a new perspective of this southern coastline and its islands.

Phillip Island’s water may be cold (remember, they have penguins living here), but that does not stop water sports enthusiasts, especially the surfers. Indeed, the island is home to Victoria’s first national surfing reserve and some of the best surfing in the region. You can rent a board from Island Surfboards.

7. Churchill Island

Where there is one island, there is usually another. Phillip Island has a little sister island called Churchill Island, which is connected to the main island by a bridge. This is a rural spot, with farmlands and wild patches full of birds, including large Canada geese, which always come in pairs, and purple swamp hens, who inspired the winery of the same name.

The island is also the site of the first formal English garden in Victoria, proving that these two islands were and still are a perfect summer retreat for the locals. You can simply go for extended walks, with the roughly 3-mile Churchill Island loop taking you around 2 hours of moderate sauntering, or watch some regularly scheduled events on the working show farm, from sheep shearing at weekends to working dog displays and vintage carriage rides.

Please note that dogs, apart from those already living there, are not allowed on the island to protect the wildlife.

Pro Tip

To stay somewhere cozy, make a booking at Oak Tree Lodge, Phillip Island’s luxury self-contained accommodation, situated in the quiet little village of Rhyll. There are four stunning suites all with their own lounging areas, kitchens, bathrooms, and all offer outdoor seating areas in a magical garden setting. The apartments are airy and really tastefully decorated, with an open fireplace in the Gatehouse.

I always dreamt of being in Tahiti and sailing around the remote French Polynesian islands, and in May I turned my dreams into lifelong memories on a small sailing yacht with Windstar Cruises. It was love at first sight! I had goosebumps as I boarded the sparkling white 148-passenger Wind Spirit in Papeete, Tahiti, for an 11-day sailing adventure in Tahiti and the Tuamotu Islands. 

While I could easily have just stayed on the ship for the entire cruise, I also wanted to explore the islands, motus and reefs famous for their clear turquoise waters, rich underwater reef life, and some of the best snorkeling and scuba diving in the world. I was able to find the perfect balance of incredible on-ship experiences and jaw-dropping off-ship experiences available at a reasonable price with Windstar. 

Everything about my first Windstar cruise was dreamy, from my comfortable cabin and beautiful open spaces on-board, to the on-ship enrichment opportunities plus delicious food and beverages. These are my eight favorite experiences on Wind Spirit in Tahiti and the Tuamotu Islands:

1. Epic Sail Aways And Sun-Downers

Every time we sailed away from a port we gathered on the outside decks in flowy linen and gauze clothing with sun-downers in hand, my favorite being an Aperol Spritz. As the sun began to set, we watched in awe as the sky began to burst with ever-changing colors. Music would start to play and all eyes were focussed on the giant masts as the tall white sails began to unfurl one at a time. This was my first time witnessing epic romantic sail aways on a true sailing yacht, and I know it will not be my last.

2. Snorkeling On Fakarava, The Island of Dreams

Windstar offered many snorkeling excursions, but the one in Fakarava, the so-called Island of Dreams in the Tuamotu Islands, stood out from the rest.

Fakarava’s lagoon is classified by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve. From a small dive boat, we entered the clear warm water with our fins and masks. (All snorkeling equipment is provided free of charge by Windstar for use throughout the cruise). While the depth of the water and current varied, we nonetheless had spectacular views of the magnificent corals, colorful tropical fish, and even black tipped reef sharks. 

The Society Islands and Tuamotu Islands are arguably the best places in the world to snorkel, so if you too love snorkeling, you can take advantage of all the snorkel excursions in Rangiroa, Taha’a, and Bora Bora in addition to Fakarava. 

3. The Spa

Sea days are ideal for splurging on spa treatments to relax and rejuvenate. Since the spa was quite small with one hair dresser, one masseuse, and one aesthetician, I booked a deep tissue massage, a BIOTEC Anti-aging Firm-a-lift facial, and a hair appointment for color and a blow dry immediately upon embarkation. 

Unlike spas on some larger ships with saunas, steam rooms, elaborate changing rooms, treatment pools, and lounge areas pre and post treatments, the Wind Spirit Spa has just three treatment rooms and a small reception area; however, the massage, facial, and salon services were as good as or better than what I’ve experienced on some of the more elaborate ship spas. I flew directly to a family event in New York City following the cruise and thanks to the spa team, I looked like a million bucks even after traveling for 18 hours!   

4. The Mamas And Papas Group On The Pool Deck

While we were anchored in Raiatea, the Sacred Island, Windstar’s on-board enrichment program included an opportunity to meet the Mamas and Papas (not the American folk-rock band!), who came aboard and immersed us in Polynesian culture.

We were taught traditional dances, how to create flower crowns and leis, and how men and women wear the traditional pareo wraps. Dressed in our new Polynesian attire, the dance floor became crowded and festive. Having been in Tahiti for a few weeks before the cruise, I came to love the warmth and kindness of the Tahitian people. It was a treat to spend a few hours with these men and women as we learned about their culture and traditions.

5. Glorious Food And Restaurant Choices

I adored having the freedom to dine when, where, and with whomever I preferred, indoors or alfresco on the Wind Spirit. Reservations are required only at the romantic and intimate Candles Restaurant, which is outdoors on the Bridge Deck with starched white tablecloths and a steakhouse-style menu. I even dressed up a little for Candles, making dining under the stars even more special! 

Windstar is the official cruise line of the James Beard Foundation. I tried many extraordinary chef-inspired dishes at the Amphora Restaurant and even ordered room service from the same menu one night when I chose to enjoy dinner alone in my cabin. Hands-down this was the best room service I have ever experienced on a ship!

For breakfast and lunch, the bright Veranda Restaurant offered panoramic views while we sailed and had a buffet with many varieties of yogurt, fruit, salad, bread and dessert. Meals could also be ordered from the menu including eggs benedict, hamburgers, and daily specials. The staff from day-one knew my name and greeted me personally without hesitating. With 118 guests on board for our sailing, I was so impressed that the staff were able to greet us by our names, not just at mealtime, but all the time as we moved around the ship. It made me wonder how they learn our names so quickly.

Pro Tip: There is so much more to Windstar’s extraordinary food-centric attention. I found three exceptional experiences, unique to Windstar, that revolved around private barbecue parties on the Wind Spirit and on secluded islands and motus for Windstar-guests-only. All were weather-dependent and involved an enormous amount of effort by the staff. More on these below.

6. Deck Barbecue Under The Stars

The Galley team brought their finest cooking talents out to the pool deck where large barbecues were set up to prepare everything from paella to pork and beef. In the late afternoon long tables with salads, breads, vegetables, and other meal accompaniments were set up, and the deck was outfitted with dozens of perfectly set tables and chairs, enough for all 118 guests to enjoy dinner and the show that followed. Staff spontaneously burst into singing and finding strategic positions to lead guests in Line Dancing. Under clear skies with bright stars overhead, the party carried on for hours. We applauded the Windstar team’s talent, creativity, effort, and spirit of hospitality and fun. 

7. Windstar Private Island Experience 

Another exceptional Windstar experience was in Motu Mahaea on Taha’a, known as The Vanilla Island. My day started with a short tour of a vanilla plantation followed by an exhilarating snorkel adventure with black tip sharks and rays circling around us. Our dive boat then took us to Windstar’s private island surrounded by white sand beaches and corals for the complimentary Private Island experience.

Wearing only bathing suits and rashguard shirts, we fit right in with the other guests who were wearing beach gear. Staff had already set up a full bar with all sorts of tropical drinks, and a full lunch buffet, complete with a giant seafood paella pan, meat skewers, and an assortment of hot and cold salads and side dishes. I lounged comfortably on the beach after the delicious lunch and went into the shallow water to snorkel a little more. 

No doubt transferring all of the food, drinks, towels, dishes and glasses, and the cooking and serving equipment to the private island was an enormous effort, yet the entire Windstar team was in great spirits throughout the day and into the early evening when we all returned to the ship. We all agreed that this was one of our best days on the cruise. 

8. Bora Bora Destination Discovery Event

The third in a trio of outstanding experiences on this Windstar cruise in Tahiti was the Bora Bora Destination Discovery Event. Bora Bora was the most beautiful of the Society Islands. It is surrounded by tiny reef islets formed by broken coral and sand, called motu, in small pristine secluded areas.

Windstar took guests by catamaran to the motu where Windstar’s executive chef arranged an extraordinary private feast on the beach. Traditional Polynesian fire dancers dressed in loin cloths performed after dinner to the delight of all the guests. I looked forward to this event; however, I had to fly home from Bora Bora for a family event just hours before the festivities began. I did hear from other guests by email about how they enjoyed the feast and fire dancing. This experience is also completely complimentary to Windstar guests!

Windstar Tahiti Pro Tips

There is a treasure box of intimate and immersive shore excursions; however, if your heart is set on particular excursions offering limited space, I recommend booking them early. You can change your mind and make adjustments on the ship daily.

I have highlighted only my top eight experiences on the Windstar Tahiti and Tuamotu Islands cruise; however, I could easily have written about so many more magical moments and experiences while on board. If you dream of Tahiti as I did, this is a wonderful way to turn those dreams into memories. 

The Australian sky really is true-blue. The experience of looking down from this vibrant hue upon purple-browns, ambers, red desert sands, straw-colored fields, and variations of eucalyptus green is miraculous.

You can fly anywhere in the world, but only in Australia can you experience this magic carpet landscape unfurled beneath your feet.

1. Heli-Camp In South Australia’s Flinders Ranges 

Tour companies often combine the word “heli” with hellish experiences. Adventurers are dropped into the wild by chopper, and Bear Grylls their way out through extreme skiing, hiking, or canoeing.

Not this time. This helicopter experience comes cosseted in luxury. Heli-camping tours leave from Rawnsley Park Station, a massive sheep station a 5-hour drive north of Adelaide.

Here is a chance to see Wilpena Pound, a lesser-known Australian geological gem — the crowning jewel in the Flinders Ranges. The natural amphitheater is 11 miles long, 5 miles wide, and surrounded by a jawbone of dramatic serrated mountains.

Best seen from the air, you hover over the surreal landscape before the helicopter drops you at an outback outcrop mostly inaccessible by other means.

Deluxe camping awaits: small tents with built-in fly screens, swags, comfortable mattresses, chairs, a gourmet cheese platter, and a bottle of South Australia’s finest wine. Sip while the aromas of a pre-prepared bush oven feast waft from the glowing campfire.

Toast the sunset as it illuminates the far-off ranges. The view is a shifting panorama of colors, orange, yellow, then crimson. As night falls, take in the Outback’s spectacular star show by 

rolling back the canvas like a blind.

In the morning, enjoy a campfire breakfast before swooping back to Rawnsley Park. 

A Heli Camping Experience can be incorporated into 3- and 5-day guided Walking the Flinders Ranges itineraries. Other accommodation at Rawnsley Park Station includes eco-villas with over-bed skylights, which unveil a private star show. The Flinders Ranges offers walking trails suitable for various activity levels. Visit Flinders Ranges and Outback Tourism to find out more.

2. Float Over Canberra 

Canberra is the only place in the world where you can float above a nation’s capital in a hot air balloon. Canberra’s creation was a compromise between the rival claims of Sydney and Melbourne, who both vied for the capital title. The inner-city area was designed by Walter Burley Griffin, a major 20th-century American architect. As a planned city, everything was done to maximize the area’s contours.

The major roads follow a wheel-and-spoke pattern from Australia’s parliament rather than a grid, so it is a fascinating sight seen from the air. Within the central area is Lake Burley Griffin, mirroring the floating beauty of the balloons. Most ballooning companies can only operate in rural areas, but because Canberra was planned, buildings are restricted in height, and you can hover over the city.

Sunrise balloon rides operate daily depending on the weather. Floating across the skies in a majestic balloon is a unique experience. Depending on the breezes, peek into the backyard of Parliament House or the American Embassy. 

Pro Tip: Balloon Aloft Canberra was established in 1986 and was instrumental in starting the annual Canberra Balloon Spectacular. Over 9 days, balloons from around Australia and overseas turn the skyline into a spectacle of color and graceful movement. This event is free to watch. Balloons take off from the lawns of Parliament House.

3. Do A Pub Crawl By Helicopter

A“pub crawl” means gathering your mates and having one drink in a pub before heading to the next pub and the next. In Australia, there are tourist pub crawls by air to visit quintessential pubs, meet the characters that define them, and hover over remarkable scenery. 

Tourists voted Darwin Heli Pub Crawl one of the best things to do in Darwin. As well as visiting outback pubs, there are incredible wilderness views, including wild brumbies, buffalo, and pigs, waterways, billabongs, mines, remote communities, and miles of dirt roads. Stops include the Lodge of Dundee, Crab Claw Island Resort, Darwin River Tavern, Goat Island Lodge, and The Noonamah Tavern or Barramundi Adventures. 

Bekaa Air’s heli pub crawl offers a birds-eye view of Brisbane, Gold Coast, and Queensland’s coastline. Leaving from Brisbane, this tour combines outback pubs, Irish pubs, beach pubs, mountain pubs, and local watering holes. One stop is Moreton Island Gutter Bar, right on the beach, serving fresh seafood caught around the corner.

4. Seaplane Over Sydney Harbour 

This tour is a dream come true, flying over one of the world’s most famous harbors and past Australian icons, including the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera House. 

Sydney Seaplanes take off and land on Rose Bay on the Harbor. There is everything from 15-minute flights over the sights to trips to the Central Coast to see pearls harvested and enjoy a hamper with Sydney rock oysters, pearl meat (a delicious delicacy), and sparkling wine. Or land in style for lunch at Cottage Point Inn, hidden away in the rugged Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. The inn is now fine dining but was a boathouse, general store, and post office for the remote Hawkesbury River community.

Pro Tip: Flights take off near the Empire Lounge. The alfresco terrace is one of the best places in Sydney to watch the seaplanes and the sunset with a glass of champagne and oysters or to enjoy Friday happy hour drinks with a view.

5. Fly Over Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness 

Tasmania’s tourism slogan is “Come Down for Air.” The island state is famous for its pristine wilderness and home to the cleanest air in the world — so pure they bottle it.

Strahan is an iconic travel destination with shops selling artisan wares and eateries serving up local produce. Nestled on the shores of massive Macquarie Harbour, this harbor-side village is also the departure point for the West Coast Wilderness Railway and boat cruises through World Heritage Wilderness into the pristine temperate rainforests of the Gordon River.

Strahan is a 4.5-hour windy drive from Hobart. A quicker option is to take the 45-minute flight with Par Avion, a route that flies over the picturesque central highlands of Tasmania and gets you to Strahan in as little as 45 minutes. As a commuter service, the cost is a fraction of what a dedicated scenic flight would normally cost. Flights operate twice a week, on Tuesdays and Thursdays, leaving at 7 a.m. and returning at 4:00 p.m. Go for the day or spend a few days.

Pro Tip: There are options to take a scenic flight to Strahan and then transfer to a catamaran for a 5.5-hour Gordon River cruise to see Hell’s Gates, Macquarie Harbor, and pristine rainforest. There are several short hikes in the area.

6. Worship The 12 Apostles

There are several ways to explore Victoria’s scenic Great Ocean Road, including by car, bus, and public transport.

You can also experience the world-famous route from the air with a flight over the rugged coastline, surf beaches, mountain ranges, and forests — perfect for those who do not have the time to take a road trip.

The highlight for most people is the 12 Apostles, limestone monoliths that stand upright while the ocean crashes at their base. The apostles formed millions of years ago, but with continuous battering by the elements, only eight remain. But when you see them, the last thing you will be thinking of is counting them. They are such a majestic sight, especially toward sunset. They take your breath away.

Helicopter flights are available directly at the 12 Apostles site. Or organize a more extended helicopter flight from Geelong, the gateway to the Great Ocean Road. Geelong is easily reached from Melbourne by ferry or train.

7. Free Fall Above The Great Barrier Reef 

I’ve snorkeled on the Great Barrier Reef and seen it from the air looking down from a commercial flight to Cairns. Once seen, never forgotten. It was like strands of translucent aquamarine pearls stretched out in the ocean, each pulsating like the irises of beautiful eyes — green, aqua, and sapphire blue.

The Great Barrier Reef (GBR) spans roughly 1,243 miles. If it were a country, it would be larger than Italy.

As the GBR runs along almost the entire length of Queensland from the southern coastal town of Bundaberg up past the northern tip of Cape York, many coastal places offer aerial tours with concentrations of operators in the Whitsunday Islands, Townsville, Cairns, and Port Douglas. Here’s a list covering many of the aerial tours. The best time to take a Great Barrier Reef scenic flight is during low tide, as the lower water levels improve the reef’s visibility.

Skydive Australia operates in spectacular locations in Queensland, including Mission Beach and Airlie Beach. A highly experienced, qualified instructor is with you to control the free-fall, parachute deployment, and steering — a memorable way to see the reef as long as you open your eyes!

8. Explore The Western Australian Coast And Margaret River 

Swan River Seaplanes take off from Swan River in Perth, West Australia’s state capital. Passengers get a chance to see the city from a different angle, including Kings Park and the Botanic Gardens.

You will also see Rottnest Island, Rockingham Beach, Mandurah Canal, and Busselton Jetty, the longest timber piling jetty in the southern hemisphere. Enjoy a gourmet lunch and experience the Margaret River wine region. The wines are famous because the climate is similar to the French Bordeaux region.

Margaret River is normally a weekend trip as it involves seven hours of driving there and back. With a seaplane adventure, you can experience this famous epicurean destination in a day. 

Pro Tip: Margaret River is one of several destinations you can visit with Swan River Seaplanes. Another is Rottnest Island, home to fabulous beaches and the cute little quokka.

9. Drop In For A Winery Lunch In Victoria 

If your time in Melbourne is short, but you still want to visit the wineries, there are some great aerial experiences. Australian Air Safaris fly to the King Valley wine region in northern Victoria and land on the airstrip at the Brown Brothers Winery estate for a tour and lunch. The Brown family has been making wine in Milawa since 1889. Settle in to savor a magnificent five-course slow lunch with matching wines. A range of helicopter services fly to Jack Rabbit Winery which has elevated views across the bay to Geelong, and Melbourne with helipad departures from the Geelong Waterfront and Melbourne. 

Or be whisked away for a day of decadence, luxury, and fine wines at Levantine Hill Estate in the Yarra Valley. Levantine Hill Winery has established a name internationally as a premium wine brand with several award-winning wines, including cabernet sauvignon, cabernet merlot, syrah, and pinot noir. Experience three, five, or seven courses at their award-winning Levantine Hill restaurant in a unique dining experience.

Pro Tip: Several wineries have helicopter landing pads with helicopters whisking you from central Melbourne to remarkable food and wine experiences. Here’s a good list.

Tourists often feel they have to take day tours or hire a car to visit tourist attractions outside Melbourne. Not so. Most of the best attractions are accessible by using trains and buses — if you know how. Here are DIY trips using public transport in my home city. Fares start at under $5 (U.S.). Regional trips range from $27 to $40 one way. When you organize outings yourself you won’t feel herded or have to share the views with other bobbing heads.

1. Dandenong Ranges 

The Dandenong Ranges can feel like a world away with “Mountain Ash,” the world’s tallest flowering plant, fern gullies, tinkling streams, and forest walks. 

It’s not. The area is part of metropolitan Melbourne. Trains run every 30 minutes and the journey takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

From central Melbourne, catch a train to Belgrave Station, a small township in the Dandenong Ranges. Walk 5 minutes to Puffing Billy Station, a famous narrow-gauge heritage railway. Operating since 1900, Puffing Billy Railway was one of four low-cost narrow-gauge lines built in the early 1900s to transport goods to remote communities.

Instead, holidaymakers came from Melbourne to take the train for weekend getaways.

The steam train huffs and puffs along the 15 miles of line from Belgrave to Gembrook and return. The journey takes in the southern reaches of Sherbrooke Forest, a temperate rainforest with giant ferns and trestle bridges spanning gaping gullies.

Stop at Lakeside for a cafe lunch and stunning short walks in the surrounding forest. Rent a bike and explore the Eastern Dandenong Ranges Trail alongside Puffing Billy’s track.

The Puffing Billy ride from Belgrave to Lakeside (return) takes 3 hours, with an hour spent at Lakeside. Or Belgrave to Gembrook (return) is 5.5 hours with 2 hours at Gembrook.

Belgrave, followed by an iconic ride on Puffing Billy, is the easiest way to access the Dandenong Ranges. Another option is to approach the Ranges from the Ferntree Gully side. Either walk into the forest from the Upper Ferntree Gully Station or take bus 688 across the top of the mountain from Upper Ferntree Gully Station via the Mount Dandenong Tourist Road. Sit on the bus for a joyous and curvaceous drive with scenic views and stop at quaint villages. Or disembark at tourist attractions including William Ricketts Sanctuary, Dandenong Ranges Botanic Garden, 1000 Steps Walking Track, Cloudehill Garden & Nursery, and Miss Marples, a tearoom devoted to Miss Marple memorabilia. 

The bus map and train timetables are on the PTV website.

Pro Tip: A time-honored tradition on Puffing Billy is sitting on the carriage sill and dangling one’s legs over the side.

2. Werribee Park 

Southwest of Melbourne is the Werribee Park Precinct, a cluster of world-class attractions. The most imposing is Werribee Park Mansion, one of Victoria’s most opulent historical properties, with 60 rooms. Wander the formal gardens and heritage orchard. Smell the roses at the State Rose Garden of Victoria. Entry to the gardens is free. Mansion and garden audio tours cost about $5.

Lancemore Mansion Hotel Werribee Park offers meals, Sunday high teas, and an excellent day spa. Visit the bar or lobby for a drink in ritzy surroundings. Shadowfax Winery, an architecturally designed cellar door with award-winning wines and Mediterranean-inspired meals, is about a 14-minute walk.

Come face-to-face with a pride of lions and visit one of the world‘s largest gorilla exhibits at Werribee Open Range Zoo. The entry fee includes safari tours through the savanna amongst herds of rhinos, giraffes, and zebras. Stay overnight on a Slumber Safari in luxury lodges. Australia has some unforgettable overnight zoo experiences!

Catch a train from the Melbourne CBD to Werribee Station (on the Werribee Line). Outside the station, catch Bus 439 Werribee South to the Zoo. The total journey takes 1.2 hours.

3. Healesville Sanctuary 

Locals take their international visitors to Healesville Sanctuary in the Yarra Valley to meet Australian wildlife such as koalas, kangaroos, wombats, emus, and platypuses. 

Enjoy the zookeeper talks about koalas and kangaroos and walk amidst grazing kangaroos. The flight presentation featuring the wedge-tailed eagle is spectacular.

Take the Lilydale Line from central Melbourne. Lilydale is at the end of the train line, and you’ll be in the countryside lined with vineyards. Catch bus 685 outside the station. A bus change may be required depending on the day. The trip takes around 2.4 hours.

Pro Tip: A Zoobus from central Melbourne is a dearer but quicker option.

4. Sovereign Hill, Ballarat 

Ballarat is a charming regional city with a heritage streetscape. One of my favorite experiences is the Art Gallery of Ballarat near the station.

Sovereign Hill is a historic park recreating the history of the 1850s goldfields. Over 200 volunteers dressed in historical costumes and Cobb and Co. carriages roll down the main street. Go gold panning in the creek — enough flecks of gold put in daily to keep the activity interesting. See $150,000 worth of molten gold poured into a gleaming bar. Tour an underground mine and visit the shops, hotels, and a theater on Main Street — all based on original Ballarat businesses. A favorite for most is the old-fashioned candy store.

From Melbourne’s Southern Cross Station, hop on the V Line train. The journey to Ballarat takes 90 minutes. Catch the bus on route 9 to Sovereign Hill. Route 16 takes you to the famous Botanic Gardens, Lake Wendouree, and the Tramways Museum.

Pro Tip: Check out these itineraries.

5. Bendigo

Bendigo is also a historic gold rush town. Today, gold comes from the tourists who flock here by train. Bendigo Art Gallery’s blockbuster exhibitions are a huge drawcard. They explore the history of fashion, design, and influential style icons such as Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Balenciaga, and Mary Quant. The present exhibition is Elvis Presley: Direct from Graceland, with vintage memorabilia and treasured items from his Graceland home, including his wedding tuxedo and Priscilla’s bridal gown. Priscilla Presley visited Bendigo to launch the exhibition. 

Walk Bendigo’s fine Victorian heritage streetscape. Ride a vintage tram or meet Sun Loong, the world’s longest imperial dragon. Rejoice in the local produce and wines. Bendigo was deemed a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2019.

Pro Tip: See TravelAwaits’ Reasons This Australian City Is A Must-Stop For Foodies.

6. Geelong 

Geelong is Victoria’s second-largest city, known for its waterfront, including public artworks, landscaped gardens, and restaurants. It is a UNESCO City of Design, with great buildings, galleries, and boundless creativity. 

From 2023, Geelong will be the new home of the Spirit of Tasmania (the passenger/car ferry to Tasmania).

Geelong is the gateway to the famous Great Ocean Road. For more great things to do in Geelong, visit TravelAwaits’ Geelong, the Gateway to Australia’s Great Ocean Road. 

Trains run between Southern Cross Station Melbourne and Geelong every 10 minutes during peak hours and regularly throughout the day.

Pro Tip: Take the new ferry service from Docklands Melbourne to Geelong’s waterfront for a leisurely outing. See Port Phillip Ferries. 

7. Wineries Mornington Peninsula And Yarra Valley 

Many travelers keep wine bucket lists. The Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley are often on those lists. As the wineries are spread out, it would be complicated to reach them by public transport.

A new service, Hop It, is a good option. The small bus leaves from central Melbourne. You travel independently from the other people on board, deciding when to hop on and off.

The stops aren’t just wineries but breweries and distilleries with a smattering of tourist venues to explore the area. I’ve been to most selected places, so realize there are some gems. Pt Leo Estate offers wine tasting and a sculpture trail with ocean views. Red Gum BBQ serves beer flights and fires up some of the best American barbecue in Australia. The owner trained at Southern Soul BBQ in St Simons Island, South Georgia. TarraWarra Estate is a significant modern art gallery as well as a winery. Domaine Chandon’s was founded by Champagne house Moët and Chandon. A great place to sip sparkling, looking out at rows of vines with dramatic arched windows framing the view. 

A Hop It day costs between $45 and $55.

8. Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park

This begins our bonus section of destinations further afield. Visiting the Grampians National Park is not a day trip. Even getting here by car takes over 3 hours. The area is heritage-listed for its Aboriginal heritage and natural beauty, including impressive cliffs, deep gorges, fantastic weathered rock, wildflowers, and wildlife. Enjoy world-famous hiking trails, waterfalls, and craggy mountain panoramas. Find more on the Grampians region here.

Buses arrive in the village of Halls Gap, where there is a range of accommodation from budget to luxury. Several trails can be accessed directly from Halls Gap. Venus Baths Loop is 1.5 miles and wheelchair accessible. Chautauqua Peak Loop passes through forest to the foot of Clematis Falls. Climb to the summit for stunning views over a 2.5-hour hike, or there are shorter options to the base of the falls of an hour return. 

The township is heavily based on tourism, so there are shuttles to other trailheads. It’s easy to access historic town walks and local wine tours.

Catch a train from Spencer Street Station to Ararat with coach connections to Halls Gap. Even the most direct service takes 3 hours and 23 minutes. Plan your journey here. Transport one way is $28.

Pro Tip: A private bus service Grampians Direct does the journey for a similar price with pickups in Melbourne and returns.

9. Warrnambool 

Warrnambool is a charming coastal city with fabulous beaches. There’s lots of great street art, a thriving food scene, and seafaring history at Flagstaff Hill. The attractions are spread out, but it’s possible to explore this vibrant coastal city by public bus. You can reach Cheese World in Allansford, Proudfoots Boathouse on the Hopkins River, the Breakwater, and Thunder Point for crashing ocean views.

Between June and September, female southern right whales come to the waters of Warrnambool’s Logans Beach to calve. The whales often swim within 300 feet offshore. There is a viewing platform at Logan’s Beach.

Buses also go to local villages such as Koroit, Australia’s most complete example of an early Irish settlement. Further along the same route, Tower Hill is an extinct volcano where you can stroll amongst emus, koalas, and kangaroos. Port Fairy is a charming fishing village and home to one of Australia’s best-loved folk festivals.

Trains to Warrnambool depart Melbourn four times a day and from Geelong. The journey takes 3 hours and 26 minutes.

Pro Tip: It’s possible to reach Warrnambool by the Great Ocean Road over one day or many. See TravelAwaits’ How To Enjoy Australia’s Great Ocean Road Using Only Local Transport. 

Hotels Close To Melbourne Stations

Melbourne’s City Loop is a mostly-underground subway connecting our two busiest stations, Flinders Street and Southern Cross. The stations you need to know about for organizing day trips.

The airport shuttle bus (Skybus) and Vline regional public transport (trains and buses) depart from Southern Cross Station.

Near Southern Cross, I’d recommend staying at Holiday Inn Express Melbourne Little Collins, a 2-minute walk away. Ask for a room with a view of the Beyonce-inspired tower (official name: The Premier Tower) for an interesting curvaceous sight to wake up to.

Near Flinders Street Station is Rendezvous Hotel Melbourne, a boutique heritage hotel. While moderately priced, it feels like staying in an exclusive club. There are views over the Yarra River. This hotel is a short walk to the Arts Precinct and the floating restaurants and alfresco dining lining the Yarra. See TravelAwaits’ 9 Unique Melbourne Experiences That Locals Love. 

Voco Melbourne Central is a new hotel with sweeping city skyline views. Love shopping? This is close to the Emporium and Bourke Street Mall and a 3-minute walk from Melbourne Central Station (one of three underground stations on the City Loop). The station is inside Melbourne Central Shopping Centre, home to 300 retailers. This state-of-the-art hotel has cutting-edge design and a lighting system that responds to the natural cycle of light. Openable windows are available in each of the 252 rooms!

Ever since the mid-1800s, when Melbourne eclipsed Sydney with its gold wealth, there has been a (friendly) rivalry between the two Australian cities. Be it the sport (Sydneysiders play rugby, while the Melburnians invented Aussie Rules football), the food scene, the cultural events, or even the weather, one city is constantly trying to better the other.

While I lived in Melbourne for a few years, at the same time, I wrote a travel guidebook on Sydney and beyond, and therefore spent plenty of time in both cities. I find them quite different in their vibe and atmosphere, and love both cities, yet would always prefer to live in Melbourne and visit Sydney. But just like the debate of London vs. Paris, many people would choose it exactly the other way around.

Here are some of the main differences and similarities, some personal observations, and reasons as to why I think one might be preferable over the other, hopefully giving you enough information to choose for yourself.

1. Size And Population

Sydney, the capital of New South Wales in the southwest of Australia, has a population of 5.3 million, while Melbourne, capital of Victoria, a bit farther along the south coast, is home to 5 million people. Very similar right now, but forecasts expect Melbourne to overtake Sydney in the next 5–10 years when it comes to population. One of the reasons behind that forecast is that Melbourne has been voted the “World’s Most Liveable City” for 6 years in a row, and even though it’s now toppled off the top spot, it continuously beats Sydney in the ranking. 

But being a liveable city does not necessarily make it a city that tourists flock to, and while Melbourne has plenty of worthwhile places to see, Sydney is indubitably the winner when it comes to tourist attractions. If you are coming to visit Australia and have only time to see one of the two big cities, make it Sydney. If, however, you want to immigrate and live in one of them — you might want to consider Melbourne.

Pro Tip: Keeping the size of the cities in mind, consider staying in the so-called CBDs, the Central Business Districts. These tend to be the central area of most interest to visitors.

2. Getting Around To See The Sights

Both cities are sprawling, but luckily, as happens so often, most of the top sights are located in and around the old city centers and within relative proximity to each other. In Sydney, the easiest and quickest way to get around is by train, especially the City Circle Line, which takes in a lot of the sights, from Circular Quay to the Townhall, with the rest easily accessed on foot. That said, the most fun way to get around is definitely by the local commuter ferries, some of which take you across the harbor all the way to Manly. Others will take you to the various hotspots along the way. A great bus line to ride is bus B, which takes you from Circular Quay to Bondi Beach.

In Melbourne there are the iconic trams, which are fun and take you everywhere within the city and even outside the inner-city limits. If you want to get to Brighton Beach, hop on the Sandringham train at the iconic Flinders Street Station.

Pro Tip: For ease of use, in Sydney, get an Opal Card which you can pick up in newsagents and kiosks. The Melbourne equivalent to the Opal Card is the myki — same idea, and easy to use across different transport options.

3. The Weather

Before I even landed in Melbourne, I had heard about the “Four Seasons in one Day.” I thought it was a joke, but no. Melbourne’s weather is as fickle as they come, and you learn to dress in layers, and carry sunglasses and an umbrella every time you leave the house. On paper, Sydney gets more rain, but it tends to happen on consecutive days in the winter rather than a bit at a time, like in Melbourne. Sydney is rightly famous for its sunshine with more than twice the number of clear sunny days than Melbourne.

Pro Tip: Remember that Australia is in the southern hemisphere and has its seasons the other way around from most of us. Summer starts in December and Christmas tends to be celebrated with a barbecue in the garden or on the beach, while winter — and snow — occurs in July.

4. The Beaches

Australian beaches are famous around the globe, and even the cities are blessed with some stunners within easy reach of the CBD. Sydney, on the Pacific Coast, has the famous Bondi Beach, and is a city with definite surfer vibes and a distinctive beach culture. Both sides of the natural harbor have a good selection of beaches, open for swimming and surfing. In contrast, Melbourne’s beaches border Port Phillip Bay, a near-circular secluded bay that opens to the Bass Straight, making the beaches less surfable, but safer for swimming. And Melbourne’s Brighton Beach has the iconic Victorian bathing boxes, adding a splash of color to the seaside.

Pro Tip: There are occasional shark attacks in Australia, but they are rare. To be safe, stay within the flagged stretches of beach, where lifeguards are always on the lookout and warn swimmers if there is a sighting.

5. Eating And Drinking

Australia has a superb eating culture, with local as well as international cuisines represented in top restaurants. Both Sydney and Melbourne have highly rated restaurants that have been awarded Top Hats, a local equivalent to the Michelin guide. 

Melbourne is famous for its coffee culture, with no Melburnian drinking anything but the best sourced and expertly made coffee. The baristas are so dedicated, it can take a long wait to even get a simple black coffee. Equally, Melbourne breakfast, simply called brekkie, is superb: from scrambled eggs with thyme-flavored mushrooms on sourdough to eggs Benedict. This is the place to get a hearty, late breakfast-brunch on the weekend. Sydney, as well as Melbourne, has a large choice of celebrity chef restaurants, and some great eateries for special treats.

When in Australia, try the local specialties, such as kangaroo, a superbly lean meat that is totally sustainable; the barramundi, an estuarine white meat fish you’ll find on every menu and even in burgers; and the lovely Moreton Bay bugs, which are not insects but small lobsters. 

And then there is, of course, the wine. The three main wine regions of New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia offer an enormous variety of choices to pair with your dishes.

Pro Tip: Get yourself a Time Out magazine of Sydney and/or Melbourne to read about the hottest new restaurants, and to locate those serving modern Australian cuisine. The listings are always up to date and honest.

6. Shopping

Shopping in Australia is a double-edged sword. There are some superb places to splash the cash in Sydney and Melbourne alike, but Australia is unbelievably pricey, so always keep the exchange rate in mind as you browse. If the budget allows, in Sydney, head straight to the beautiful Queen Victoria Building at the bottom of George Street, and then work your way up. Don’t forget to pop into the little covered arcades, such as the Strand Arcade, as you head toward The Rocks, where you can get gorgeous souvenirs. 

Melbourne is famous for its tiny “laneways,” narrow alleyways decorated with street art and brimmed with small individual boutiques and shops, and countless cafes and restaurants. All interconnected by historic arcades and small malls, it is quite easy to get lost, so why not go on a guided shopping tour, allowing someone local to show you the best spots? 

Pro Tip: To save some money, you can claim some tax back at the airport before you leave. 

7. Outside Of The City Limits

All of Australia is worth seeing, but visitors often just get a snapshot of what this country-continent has to offer. So, when in a city, it is always worthwhile looking outside its limits for other must-see sights on the doorstep. Both Sydney and Melbourne have superb nature and attractions within easy day trips. In Sydney, a visit to the Blue Mountains, with its Jenolan Caves and the Scenic World at Katoomba, with a fun funicular is a must. Wine lovers ought to visit the Hunter Valley, a brief drive north of Sydney.

Melbourne is hemmed in by wine regions on three sides, from the Yarra Valley to the Mornington and Bellarine peninsulas. You can combine vineyards with some iconic Australian wildlife at the Healesville Sanctuary; while the must-see Phillip Island has stunning scenery and a colony of the cutest penguins. Lots to see outside of both cities, but for me, in this case, Melbourne is the winner.

Pro Tip: In both cases, there are plenty of guided coach tours available with established outfits such as ATT Kings, but you are much more flexible in a rental car. Just remember: The Aussies drive on the left, and at dusk, the roos often sit in the middle of the road, refusing to budge.

Explore all there is to do in both Sydney and Melbourne:

• 9 Tips For Experiencing Sydney On A Budget
• 9 Unique Melbourne Experiences That Locals Love
• Exploring Melbourne’s Famous Street Art

As Lou Rawls sang: “It’s spring again / I can hear the birds sing again / See the flowers start to bud / See young people fall in love.” 

Travel is like spring, invigorating us with a zest for life. Spring is in March, April, and May in the U.S. and UK. But if you visit Australia, experience a repeat performance as spring is from September through November. 

Spring in Australia will surprise and delight you with landscapes awash with blooms. Anthophiles — people drawn to flowers — will be in heaven! Encounter native flowers you may never have seen before. As the early settlers cultivated European plants to remind them of the Old Country, there are also some magnificent, traditional gardens.

1. Jacaranda Trails

Sydney, Grafton, And Brisbane 

Jacaranda trees have clusters of purple blooms that fall like violet rain draping the landscape in a regal cloak. They thrive in Australia’s tropical and subtropical regions. 

In Sydney, jacarandas form a dramatic foreground to the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House. Wendy Whiteley’s Secret Garden in Lavender Bay has a spectacular view of the harbor foreshore dotted with purple plumes. They also flourish in suburbs like Kirribilli, Greenwich, Waverton, Hunters Hill, and Woolwich. Follow Sydney’s Jacaranda Trail to spot the purple. 

Brisbane City Botanic Gardens is where Australia’s first grown Jacaranda tree was planted in 1864 with seeds given to the ​​curator of the gardens, Walter Hill, by a visiting South American sea captain.

Now Jacarandas are everywhere. At the University of Queensland’s ​​St. Lucia campus, the students call the bloom “purple panic” as flowering coincides with their exams. At New Farm Park, by the Brisbane River, 140 trees burst into bloom every October in a dazzling display. Here’s where to paint the town purple from Brisbane to the Gold Coast. 

Purple power lures crowds to historic Grafton, 372 miles north of Sydney. The Grafton Jacaranda Festival happens every October through to November. There are more than 1,700 Jacaranda trees celebrated with street parades and themed floats, markets, live performances, and fireworks. The first festival was first held in 1934 as the rural town was struggling out of the Great Depression. Today, the Jacaranda Festival is the longest-running floral festival in Australia. Stroll, ride a bike, or drive a car through the color purple. 

2. Canberra’s Floriade

Canberra 

There’s no better time to visit Canberra, Australia’s capital, than during the Floriade, the largest flower festival in the Southern Hemisphere, with over a million flowers on display. It is centrally located on the shores of Lake Burley Griffin, waves of magenta, gold, mauve, and cobalt ripple across the grounds in a sea of color.

Known as “Australia’s Celebration of Spring,” the many different cultural events attract thousands of locals and tourists.

The Floriade started in 1988. The first theme was multiculturalism, with displays based on the Netherland’s world-famous Keukenhof garden. Each year, the Floriade garden beds reflect a different theme. The 2021 theme was “The Future of Flowers,” exploring the possibilities of tomorrow.

The themes are expressed in the garden beds for pictures if seen from above. To fully appreciate their designs, ride the Ferris wheel on site. Or, if weather conditions permit, see the Floriade gardens from above from a hot air balloon.

Canberra was a purpose-built capital designed by the American architect and landscape artist Walter Burley Griffin. His pattern of circles and spokes is also best appreciated from above. 

Pro Tip: NightFest Floriade offers cutting-edge light installations, markets, live music, comedians, and DJs and is a paid ticketed event. But during the day, like most Canberra attractions, the Floriade Festival is a free event.

3. Wildflower Trails

Western Australia

Canberra’s Floriade attracts thousands of people, but there are many places in Australia where dramatic banks of flowers are in the wild and seen in more personal communion with nature. 

Sometimes called the greatest flower show on Earth, Western Australia is home to over 12,000 species of wildflowers — 60 percent of which can’t be found anywhere else on Earth, resulting in magnificent wildflower trails. Some highlights include Red-and-Green Kangaroo Paw, pink coneflower, Bull Banksia, Holly-leaved Banksias, Hakea Emu Tree, Winged Boronia, and Green Spider Orchid.

Seeing brilliant wildflowers color the outback landscape is a unique experience. People travel from the eastern states just to see them. 

Take the road trip adventure of a lifetime staying in outback stations, some of them as big as small European countries. See WA Visitor’s Centre for more details. 

There are also guided tours from half-day, full-day, and multi-day options, leaving Perth (WA’s capital). National parks offer walking tours, such as Kalbarri National Park and Fitzgerald River National Park — home to more than 1,800 beautiful and bizarre species of flowering plants and listed as a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve.

The Margaret River region is not only home to wildflowers but a thriving wine and culinary scene. There are now direct flights from Melbourne to Margaret River instead of the need to drive the 3 hours down from Perth and several specialist tours that include wildflowers. 

WA is Australia’s largest state and has the most extended wildflower season. The blooms carpet the landscape with color, coming into bloom in the northern parts of the state in June and flourishing through till late spring in the southern parts of WA. If you only plan to visit Perth, one quarter (3,000 species) of all Western Australian plants are grown in Perth’s Kings Park. Free guided walks occur daily, rent a bike, or take a guided bike tour. The Annual Kings Park Festival is held in September and includes spectacular blooming wildflowers.

Pro Tip: Good sites to help plan a trip to see WA’s wildflowers include How to See Western Australia’s Unique Wildflowers and Find Wildflowers.

4. Wildflower Walking Trails

New South Wales

National Parks in NSW have wildflower walking trails. The Flannel Flower walking track Iies on the Central Coast. The Australian native flannel flower is named ​​because of the soft wooly feel of the plant. In spring, see the flowers in full bloom; the profusion of white petals is simply beautiful. Werakata National Park is a wildflower wonderland — purple happy wanderers, yellow hairpin banksias, and red mountain devils. Port Macquarie is famous for its beaches, but it is also home to Kattang Nature Reserve, where you can find boronia, flannel flowers, everlasting daisies, and wedding bush. In spring, the Snowy Mountains at high-altitude Kosciuszko National Park come to life with purple eyebrights, yellow billy buttons, and everlasting daisies. 

Pro Tip: NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service lists great suggestions for wildflower walks.

5. Gardens In The Blue Mountains

New South Wales

Tucked behind Sydney, the Blue Mountains is a more temperate region with some amazing gardens. Botanic Garden Mount Tomah is the world’s only botanic garden within a UNESCO World Heritage Area. It contains 50,000 daffodils as well as cherry blossoms and ruby-red waratahs. Leura is a picturesque village, and the Leura Garden Festival is a sight to behold. The gardens are famous for their magnificent displays of azaleas, rhododendrons, dogwoods, camellias, flowering annuals, perennials, and bulbs. A shuttle moves people between the gardens. Or explore the Campbell Rhododendron Garden in Blackheath, overflowing with massed-bulbs displays, rhododendron, azaleas, and lilacs, followed by a scrumptious Aussie cream tea.

Pro Tip: Oberon, about a 3-hour drive from Sydney, has one of the world’s largest privately-owned cool-climate gardens. Mayfield Garden is inspired by grand English country estates and features a paddock-to-plate cafe. 

6. Victoria

The Garden State

Victoria is dubbed Australia’s garden state. The Royal Botanic Gardens and the Fitzroy Gardens are wonderful places to appreciate and celebrate spring in Melbourne. It features vast tree canopies, green lawns to picnic on, traditional garden beds, and even punting on the lake. An hour east of the city lies the Dandenong Ranges, where the cooler climate attracted people of European descent. This is a green wonderland of national parks, walking tracks, huge tree ferns, and stunning gardens. Celebrate cherry blossom season in September with a picnic and festival at the Dandenong Ranges Botanic Garden, home to thousands of rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, and daffodils. Cloudehill Gardens is internationally famous for garden rooms brimful with flowers and magnificent artwork. At The Tesselaar Tulip Festival, see almost a million tulips from all over the world alongside cultural events.

My favorite spring gardens are Heronswood House and Garden on the Mornington Peninsula, home to the Digger’s Club, which is dedicated to preserving heirloom seeds and the best gardening traditions. Wander their spectacular gardens backgrounded by bayside views. The other is Cranbourne Royal Botanic Gardens. These innovative gardens have won over 30 planning and design awards and feature Australian plants amidst 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) of walking tracks.

7. Canola Trails

The Riverina NSW, Clare Valley SA, And Avon Valley WA 

Following canola trails has become increasingly popular in Australia. More than the dazzling yellow, it’s the chance to visit fascinating small country towns and villages. The Riverina Canola trail is a triangle between Junee, Temora, and Coolamon in NSW — visit wineries and restaurants and learn about the area’s history. My favorite stop is Junee, an old railway town; visit a roundhouse (as in Thomas the Tank), a haunted house, and a licorice and chocolate factory. Another tourist favorite is the Clare Valley, South Australia — one of South Australia’s premier wine regions. Taste wines between your happy snaps of fields of spun gold. For expansive views over brilliant yellow canola crops, take air balloon flights over the canola fields in the Avon Valley 90 mins from Perth. In another innovation, locals have planted a special canola field so Instagrammers can wander through without trampling farmers’ crops when they take their selfies.

Pro Tip

Other sensational spring events include Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers, QLD, Renmark Rose Festival, SA, and Tulip Time Festival, Bowral, NSW. Tasmania’s English-like cold climate means a host of daffodils and other beautiful flowers. Visit the site Blooming Tasmania for a host of fabulous gardens to visit. Not sure where to start? Companies providing garden tours within Australia include Botanica World Discoveries Tours, Odyssey Traveller, Ross Tours, ASA Tours, Travelrite, and Renaissance Tours.

When thinking of vineyards, most people probably imagine rolling hills tightly planted with grapes ripening under the sun. The south of Europe, California, or even Australia spring to mind, but it’s highly unlikely that you will associate wine production with a remote island and a coral atoll in the South Pacific. Yet, this is what we are introducing you to, and it’s what makes Vin de Tahiti so unique.

Rangiroa is the largest atoll in French Polynesia, located 220 miles northeast of Tahiti, a 1-hour flight from Papeete. The atoll is formed by a string of coral islets grouped around a vast lagoon. Apart from the unique vineyard, there are many other fabulous things to do and see on Rangiroa, like scuba diving and snorkeling in one of the most colorful and clean reefs in the world, seeing the famous Blue Lagoon, pearl farms, pink sand motus (small islands on one of which Vin de Tahiti is located), and picturesque villages.

The wines are grown on a small motu (islet) and are reached at the end of a coral road a few minutes by boat from the town of Avatora. Visits are by tour only, so no just dropping in. You can book the tours by contacting Vin de Tahiti.

The Beginnings Of The Vineyard

French oenologist Dominique Auroy had a dream: cultivating and producing excellent wines in the paradisiac surroundings of the islands of the South Pacific, or rather, French Polynesia. His dream was met with much skepticism from colleagues and friends, but his passion for winemaking and for the South Pacific made him persevere. He traveled around the islands to find the ideal location for his future vineyard and settled on Rangiroa. The essential elements were the quality of the soil, the influence of the sun, the climate, and consideration of the effects of the salt content of the ocean.

In Rangiroa he found chalky limestone soil, enriched with fragments of white coral, vegetal compost, and fresh (i.e. rain) water, that must be added during periods of drought. With endless patience and years of trial and error, he settled on Carignan grapes, and the first stock was imported in 1999. The first harvest was produced in 2000, and in 2003, the vineyard in Rangiroa produced 400 bottles twice a year as there are two harvests: May and December. The production of quality wines has since increased several times over.

Running Of The Vineyard Today

Since 2002, Sebastien Thepenier is the leader of the team that runs the vineyard. French and locals undertake their work and tasks with the same enthusiasm and passion as the founder. Since October 2010, the vineyard has taken an organic approach to wine growing which has enhanced the winery’s reputation for producing quality, organic wines.

What Makes The Domaine Unique

The first reason that Vin de Tahiti is unique is no doubt the fact that a vinery exists — and flourishes — on an island in the middle of the ocean. The second is that it is possible to grow grapes literally on a coral reef, and the third is the incongruous sight of orderly planted rows of wines whilst walking on a beach with a view of the Pacific Ocean ahead and wind-beaten palm trees with their rustling leaves just below the wines. Nowhere else in the world will you see something like this.

The Wines That Are Produced At Vin De Tahiti

By now, the vineyard consists of 17 acres and, in two harvests per year, produces a great variety of wines. It has come far beyond the original Carignan grapes. They produce red, white, and rose wines. The soil, climate, and the grapes being partly aged in French oak barrels give the wines an unusual freshness and smoky notes combined with the flavor of slightly candied spicy red fruit.

The most popular brands are Blanc de Corail, Clos du Recif, Rose Nacarat, and Monamona.

Best Time To Visit

The best time to visit the vineyard is during harvest time when you can watch in person how this unique vineyard is operated and how the grapes are processed to get the best results out of them. Harvest time is twice a year, in May and December, although it can vary slightly depending on the weather.

In recent years, Thepanier has introduced a novelty, the first rum made from sugar cane in Tahiti.

How To Get There

Reaching Rangiroa requires a rather long journey, and much interest in and enthusiasm for this remarkable wine adventure. First, you have to travel to Tahiti from wherever in the world you are, then you have to take a 1-hour flight from Papeete to Rangiroa. Interisland flights are mostly operated by Air Tahiti.

Then you have to travel to the village of Avatoru, and from there go on a short boat trip to end up on a small coral road at the end of which you come to the motu where the winery is located and the grapes are grown just a few feet above the ocean.

Obviously, this is not a day trip, so you will want to spend at least one night in accommodation. Most hotels and bed and breakfasts are close to the airport, which in turn is close to Avatoru. A great choice is the Resort & Spa Kia Ora with 60 over-water bungalows and splendid beaches.

When booking, make sure to arrange onward transportation to Vin de Tahiti.

Visiting The Vineyard

The pre-booked tour with Tahiti.com lasts for an hour. You are given an introduction to the history of wine growing in the South Pacific and of the various wines, a tour of the vineyard, and a view of the wine cellar. It’s interesting to see the French oak barrels. This is followed by a tasting of five different wines.

You can buy bottles on-site to take home or enjoy in your hotel or online if you want to drink the wine after your return home. Cruise ship passengers cannot book tours of the vineyard.

Pro Tip: When visiting at harvest time be aware that it can be very hot, so make sure to carry sun protection and slip-proof shoes because the floor in the vineyard can be uneven.

By the 1880s, Melbourne had developed an international reputation as one of the greatest cities in the world. Mark Twain praised the city when he visited in 1895, and British journalist George Augustus Sala dubbed the metropolis “Marvellous Melbourne” in 1885. Augustus Sala has come and gone, but his term for the city stuck.

Melbourne has skyscrapers, street art, and modern transportation. But despite this modern veneer for locals like me, after living here for 60 years, the best spots to see are the more historic places intertwined with our history.

1. Spires To Inspire

My aunt visited us from England when I was a child. I was surprised when she wanted me to accompany her inside St. Paul’s Cathedral. I’m also indebted because she taught me to see the beauty in ecclesiastical architecture.

Diagonally opposite Flinders Street Station, St. Paul’s was built in the Gothic Revival style, the spires echoing the grand medieval cathedrals. The foundation stone was laid in 1880. Step inside for a wonderland of carvings, alabaster, marble, Venetian glass mosaics, and stained glass. The central spire is the second-highest in the Anglican Communion, after Salisbury Cathedral. It’s open Tuesday–Saturday from 10 a.m.–3 p.m. with free admission and self-guided tours.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral (1858–1940) is dedicated to Ireland’s patron saint. It’s the largest church building in Australia. The bluestone cathedral is Gothic and formidable. I’ve walked past at night and imagined Nosferatu creeping behind the iron fencing. St. Patrick’s was designed by William Wardell, Melbourne’s foremost ecclesiastical architect of the era. Seen from above, the building forms a Latin cross. Outside, walk the Pilgrim Path, absorbing the calming sounds of running water and spiritual quotes before exploring the gargoyles and spires. There is a cathedral shop and no entrance fee. Close to the stunning Fitzroy and Treasury Gardens, it’s a gorgeous walk.

2. Gape At Gold

A walk down fashionable Collins Street is a must-do in Melbourne. At the top is the Old Treasury Building, commissioned in 1857 to store the gold bullion pouring into Melbourne from the Victorian goldfields. Enjoy free entry and exhibits.

Continue walking down the Paris End of Collins Street, a tree-lined boulevard with luxe shops including Hermes, Dior, Fendi, Versace, Cartier, and Tiffany & Co.

Continue on the golden mile to the banking precinct. Victoria’s gold rush (from 1851 to the late 1860s) funded a boom of neo-Gothic and Italianate banks and insurance buildings. My favorite is the ANZ Gothic Bank, the finest secular Gothic-Revival building in Australia. The outside, with its towers and turrets, looks like a fairytale castle. But inside, the palatial Venetian-Gothic-style interior is breathtaking. No expense was spared: massive columns and vaulted, hand-painted ceilings dripping with 23-karat gold leaf. It features enough gold to stretch around the equator, so the legend goes. Note the leadlight window of the miner panning for gold (the foundation of the bank’s wealth). As with St. Patrick’s, the architect was William Wardell.

Pro Tip: Don’t miss the ornate Old Safety Deposit Building next door or 333 Collins Street to walk through an incredible banking chamber.

3. Unravel The Maze

Tourists who find themselves walking up Swanston Street, past tacky tourist shops, may mutter, “Well, this isn’t very interesting.” They should leave this main drag and turn down one of the laneways to discover Melbourne’s hidden charms. Surveyor Robert Hoddle designed Melbourne as a grid back in 1837. The population couldn’t be bothered walking the long way round when their destination was nearby, so he developed a warren of well-trodden laneway shortcuts. Once home to alley cats and trash cans, these days, the laneways are famous for street art, one-off boutiques, galleries, hidey-hole cafés, and secret bars. Join a walking tour, download a map, or follow a local.

“Doing the block” is a term from the 1860s–1930s that referred to well-dressed people promenading along Collins Street between Elizabeth and Swanston Streets. It was once the place to see and be seen, and for chance encounters with the opposite sex. Carpenters Lane became known as the Block Arcade after this practice. When a fire gutted the area, it was redesigned as a shopping arcade in 1892, inspired by Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. The Victorian-era arcade features mosaic-tiled floors, stained-glass windows, a glass canopy and skylights, and carved stone finishes. It’s still a place to be seen.

Pro Tip: The Hopetoun Tea Rooms were in the arcade for 128 years. They are in the process of shifting to larger premises. Locals will follow as their cakes are deservedly famous.

4. Gin And Sin In Little Lon

Little Lon was a notorious slum associated with prostitution, opium dens, and petty crime. In 1948, the government cleaned up the area replacing ramshackle homes with office towers. Digging these foundations resulted in huge holes, and Little Lon became the site of archaeological digs that revealed much of the area’s fascinating history.

Number 17 Casselden Place was the only 19th-century, single-story building to avoid demolition. Once a brothel and a sly grog shop, today, it’s a cottage housing Little Lon Distillery, a boutique bar and gin distillery.

Sip cocktails and drink in Little Lon’s infamous characters as the gins are named after the locals. Ginger Mick was a legendary local larrikin. Arthur “Dutchy” Thomas was a hooligan, and his namesake gin is full of swagger and Dutch courage. The lychee-infused Little Miss Yoko references Yokohama, a prostitute of Chinese descent working out of the cottage for over 15 years. The 10-foot gin still is housed in her former room of “business.” And Proudfoot (a London dry gin) takes its name from the constable who patrolled the area and liked to stop in for “a cup of tea.”

Bookings are recommended. The gin masterclasses offer cocktails, tastings, and a fascinating history lesson. Take home the spirit of Melbourne in a bottle. 

Pro Tip: Melbourne Historical Crime Tours run tours of Little Lon.

5. Divine Domes

You can’t judge a book by its cover, but you can judge a city by its library. The State Library of Victoria is renowned for its stunning domed reading room. Built in 1913, the dome was then the largest reinforced-concrete structure in the world and was inspired by the domes at the British Museum and Washington’s Library of Congress.

The magnificent octagonal reading room is six stories high and houses 32,000 books. Many of Melbourne’s literary elite come here to write. Take a photo of the Dome either looking up or from the heights of the sixth-floor balcony. Officially called the Latrobe Reading Room, locals still call it the Dome. Ask for directions when you enter the library. 

Across the road from the library, Coop’s Shot Tower is inside Melbourne Central under a glass dome. The workers would climb up 300 stairs before pouring molten lead through a sieve. When the lead hit the water far below, it had formed into a circular shot for muskets. Coop’s Shot Tower was the tallest building in Melbourne’s Central Business District (CBD) until the mid-1940s. When the shopping center was built in the 1980s, architects preserved this piece of Melbourne’s history inside a glass-and-steel dome. Admission is free.

6. Historic Homes

The National Trust of Australia (Victoria) protects and conserves historical places. Visit Como House and Garden in upmarket South Yarra. Built in 1847, the grand house is a mix of Australian Regency and classic Italianate architecture, offering a glimpse into the privileged lifestyle of its former owners, the Armytage family. 

However, my favorite National Trust property closest to Melbourne’s CBD is Ripponlea Estate. The house was built in 1868 for Frederick Sargood, who made his money selling goods in the goldfields. The most striking feature is the 14-acre Victorian pleasure garden, a tranquil oasis with meandering paths, century-old trees, a lake with bridges, and even a grotto. 

Both homes are featured in the popular Australian detective series Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries.

7. Historical Stays

To stay on theme, Melbourne has historic hotels. The Treasury on Collins Apartment Hotel is in the historic banking precinct. The Hotel Windsor is next to the Princess Theatre, but it seems a little tired these days.

I recently enjoyed a stay at the Rendezvous Hotel Melbourne. Built in 1913 as the Commercial Travellers Club, the building has been restored to its original splendor in a multi-million dollar refurbishment retaining old-world charm but introducing modern conveniences.

Designed by Harry Tompkins, the building is one of Melbourne’s finest and most distinct expressions of the Edwardian Baroque style. Step inside the hotel’s Grand Vestibule, a word meaning “entrance court,” and look up at stained-glass windows, pillars, and the ornate circular ceiling. Enjoy the elegance and decadence of bygone times by indulging in a high tea or drinks in the Travellers Bar.

Rendezvous Hotel is on Flinders Street, close to Melbourne’s historic station, and a short stroll from the famous laneways. A 10-minute walk in the opposite direction leads to Southbank for al fresco riverside dining and Melbourne’s Cultural Precinct. 

Many tourists stay in Southbank’s towering modern hotels, but I prefer the “Marvellous Melbourne” charm of somewhere like the Rendezvous Hotel. The building has connections to Sidney Myer (Australia’s Mr. Selfridge), who established Myer emporiums on Bourke Street in 1911.

Pro Tip: Request a heritage room as these have the original leadlight windows and high, ornate ceilings. Some have views over the Yarra River. Rooms here are surprisingly affordable. 

8. Exhibitionism

The Melbourne Museum is a post-modernist building walkable from the city near Queen Victoria Market. See the life-size dinosaurs and walk through the Forest Gallery — a replica of Victoria’s mountain landscape complete with tall eucalypts, ferns, and even mists. The Little Lon Collection can be found in the Melbourne Story exhibition.

The Royal Exhibition Building, adjacent to the museum in the Carlton Gardens, is the museum’s largest exhibit. Designed for the 1880 Melbourne International Exhibition, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Royal Exhibition Building has been charming and terrifying Melburnians ever since. Terrifying, as this is where many of us sat for our exams, the stunning building is one of the last remaining 19th-century exhibition buildings in the world. 

9. A Funny Thing Happened On The Way To The…

London’s theatrical heartland is the West End. In ​​Melbourne, we call our theater district the East End. The Princess Theatre was established in 1854 but rebuilt in 1886 using a design from architect William Pitt. Famous thespians, such as Sir Laurence Olivier, Marlene Dietrich, and Ralph Richardson, have trodded the boards of the East End. Restored to its former glory in the 1980s by the Marriner Group, the theater holds 1,500 people and is home to blockbuster musicals. It’s currently showing Harry Potter and the Cursed Child.

The Regent Theater began operating as a picture palace in 1929. Today, it seats 2,145 patrons. The audience sits on two levels under the original chandeliers. The forthcoming program includes Moulin Rouge, Rodgers and Hammerstein’s Cinderella, Hairspray, and Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat.

My favorite theater is Forum, on the corner of Russell Street and Flinders Street. Designed by American architect John Eberson, the exterior features Moorish-Revival minarets and turrets. Inside are Greco-Roman columns, classical statues, marble staircases, and a Mediterranean sky — Citroen blue with twinkling stars and projected passing clouds.

The Forum is where I saw one of my first movies, The Age of Consent, in 1969. Helen Mirren played a nubile teenager. Both the Forum and Helen Mirren, who is now 76, continue to astound us. And so does “Marvellous Melbourne.”

Check out all there is to do in the Land Down Under:

• 7 Incredibly Romantic Experiences In Australia
• 11 More Incredible Australian Train Trips To Experience
• 10 Amazing Experiences In One Of Australia’s Best-Kept Secrets

Let me introduce Australia’s best-kept secret. Even many Australians don’t know Queensland’s Granite Belt exists — or didn’t until recently. 

Like the U.S., Australians experienced out-of-state travel restrictions during COVID and needed to holiday in their own states.

There was no shortage of options for Queenslanders: the Gold Coast for bright lights and idyllic beaches, Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef for the wonderment of the tropical North, and the Sunshine Coast for vibrant beach culture. 

But having ticked off these gems, they turned their attention to the Granite Belt, a region 2.5 hours southwest of Brisbane. It’s part of the Southern Downs, with Warwick and Stanthorpe the largest townships. They found so much to do they kept returning. 

I’m sure you will also love this area that even Australians are only now discovering.

1. Be Bowled Over By The National Parks 

Like Arches National Park, boulders balance here in gravity-defying positions. At Girraween National Park, relive the Greek myth of Sisyphus. Zeus condemned Sisyphus to roll a boulder up a hill for eternity. Hikers take photos pretending to push boulders uphill. Do an easy circuit walk to the Granite Arch (a 30-minute return) or strap on your hiking boots for the Pyramid Walk (2-hour return) to Balancing Rock.

Camping is available, or you can stay at Girraween Environmental Lodge, architecturally designed chalets set on 400 acres of bushland. 

Pro Tip: Experience rainforests and waterfalls at Main Range National Park. Visit Bald Rock National Park to see the second-largest monolith in Australia after Uluru (Ayers Rock). 

2. See A Pyramid

You can view an Egyptian-looking pyramid simply by stepping out of your vehicle. Ballandean Pyramid is man-made. Over a few bottles of red, the landowner asked his mates for suggestions on how to use up the surplus rocks in his paddock. 8 months and a quarter of a million dollars later, 7,500 tons of rock lie stacked into a pyramid. All that’s missing are the camels. Perhaps over the next bottle of red, they’ll get some in. 

3. Winning Wineries

Australia is famous for wine-growing areas such as the Barossa and Hunter Valley.

The Granite Belt wine region slips under the radar. And local winemakers like it that way, as they can experiment with unexpected drops rather than the usual suspects or shiraz and chardonnay, Australia’s most planted varieties. 

At approximately 3,285 feet above sea level, The Granite Belt is a retreat from the heat, 5 to 7 degrees cooler than Brisbane. The winemakers can create cold climate wines — including tempranillo, saperavi, marsanne, and nebbiolo.

These “Strange Birds,” as they call them, are varieties representing less than 1 percent of total vines in Australia. Follow their Strange Bird Map — 31 different tasting rooms offering rare wines.

Granite Belt wineries offer more personalized cellar doors tastings. The person who pours your wine is likely the same person who planted the vines. So you get to meet the makers.

Bent Road Winery is a prime example. The passion that Glen, a former research scientist, and Andrew, a sommelier, have for creating natural wines is inspiring. I saw Andrew kiss a piece of winemaking machinery. He’s quite a character!

The pair have shipped in qvevri — European Georgian terracotta vessels, which they half bury in the ground in an ancient wine-making process used in Georgia dating back 8,000 years. The wine reacts to changing conditions in the earth, granting the wine a strong connection to the place. As Andrew says, “rustic, organic and very sexy.” 

Bent Road Winery is “a bit of a secret squirrel,” but Glen and Andrew welcome visitors by booking ahead for their weekend sessions at 10:30 and 2:30 for no charge. They see this as a chance to engage with people about the wine-making process. 

Andrew has hauled an old church onto the property as a tasting room. It seems almost sacrilegious to drink in a church. And it’s hard to get over the centerpiece on the table — a skeleton. But then one of their labels is La Petite Mort which they describe as “unusual, confronting and a little left of center.”

Pro Tips: There are over 50 wineries in the Granite Belt. Try saperavi, a full-bodied alternative red at Ballandean Estate. Opposite Golden Grove Estate was the 2019 Queensland Winery of the Year. Mike Hayes, the winemaker at Balancing Heart Vineyard, won Australian Winemaker of the Year in 2018.

4. You Can Wine And Dine And Not Drive

When tasting wine, it’s great to imbibe and not drive. Crisps Coaches offer transport from Brisbane. 

At Vineyard Cottages Ballandean, Simon and Errol take guests to local wineries as part of the service. I met two couples on their fourth consecutive holiday at the cottages because they loved the accommodation, food, and service. 

Filippo’s Tours arranges food and wine tours. They pick up from accommodation within a 20-kilometer radius of Stanthorpe. 

Or take a cycling tour where a support van carries your wine purchases. Granite Belt Bicycle Tours are modestly priced; as well as visiting wineries, you can ride through an apple orchard, visit Donnellys Castle (a granite bushrangers hideout), and explore forests to spot kangaroos. They also offer e-bikes. 

VeloRoo has multi-day packages for serious bike riders. Luxury accommodation and complimentary return transfers from Brisbane. Check out their Granite Belt Gourmet Gravel Adventure. 

Pro Tip: There are plenty of other tour options.

5. The Marriage Of Food And Wine

While only there for 2 days, I enjoyed memorable integrated food and wine experiences. 

Heritage Estate Vine + Dine Journey began with a Vineyard Walk & Talk while sipping glasses of sparkling wine — a chance to smell the roses at the end of the vines. Owners Robert and Therese Fenwick demonstrated their innovative drone technology. It convinces birds not to feast on their grapes, a bit like the flying monkeys in The Wizard of Oz.

Inside was a wonderland — a sea of glassware. Our rosewood oval table had once seated the Executive Council when Queen Victoria declared Queensland a colony in 1859.

Five dishes were paired with the perfect wines. As an example, we had a Strange Bird, a Fiano 2020, with our dish of amuse-bouche tostada roasted capsicum and anchovy with ginger chili tomato Quetta and tapenade. 

Dinner at Whiskey Gully Wines was like being a guest in someone’s beautiful old home, as Beverley Homestead is one of the oldest homes in the area. Our hosts were John and Denice Arlidge. John is very much the face popping up everywhere. We glimpsed him in the kitchen, baking a massive sourdough rosemary and gruyere focaccia. He proudly presented this to us on a platter, and we chorused him with “oohs” and “ahs.” It was raised and perfect with a slightly salted crust with fresh butter — yum. 

The evening continued like a dinner party rather than a sterile restaurant experience. Except for those with special dietary needs, we ate what John had cooked. If you didn’t want the dish served, you swapped it with a neighbor who might have the other option. I wouldn’t have swapped my delicious curry with anyone. 

Each dish was matched with Whiskey Gully Estate’s wines, including Bon Blanc Colombard perfect with my curry. And a blissfully deep purple-red 2019 Black Rod Shiraz.

Like a good host, John then entertained us by pulling out his guitar.

6. She’ll Be Apples

The Granite Belt has many descendants of Italian migrants who came to Queensland as cane cutters from the 1920s onwards. 

At Nicoletti Orchards, we met third-generation apple growers. Some of the trees on the property date back 70 years. Daniel and his wife Toni grow Royal Gala, Pink Lady, Sundowner, and Fuji on their 100-acre farm. Pick your own during apple season (February through April). There is nothing like crunching into an apple you have just picked. And how do you tell a good apple in a shop? “Look for the greener stalks,” Daniel taught us. 

Vincenzo’s Café is also run by Italian descendents. You can’t miss it. There’s a Big Apple outside on a pole that’s great for photos. Try the waffles with ice cream and applesauce or the Big Apple Breakfast. The homemade Italian pizzas, pasta, and salad are fresh and delicious. Their huge deli stocks Granite Belt products. So if you don’t have much time in the region, this is a one-stop-shop. 

Pro Tip: Sutton’s Farm apple pies are legendary. 24 apples are in each and they’re served with spiced apple cider ice cream and fresh cream. Eat under the orchard’s apple trees. Here are other great apple-related experiences.

7. Graze For Days

A few food experiences to get you started. Pop chocolates into your mouth at Heavenly Chocolates and sample artisan cheeses at Stanthorpe Cheese. At Jamworks Gourmet Foods Cafe & Larder, try boozy rhubarb and pinot gris jam, mandarin and passionfruit marmalade, or Rosella jam. Pick your own strawberries in season. Join the hunt at Folly Truffles when the dogs sniff out French black Perigord — or out of season, enjoy Tea with A Truffle Farmer.

8. History In The Baking

For a unique country-style high tea with butterfly cakes and scones, visit Glengallan Homestead. Prebook for Wednesday to Sunday. There’s nothing like country baking. 

Do a self-guided tour of the Circa 1867 Glengallan Homestead, which was once the finest home in the colonies. The restoration work is a tribute to the dedication of the volunteers. Don’t miss “Mummified Myrtle”; a cat found perfectly preserved beneath the floorboards. There is an East Anglian custom where builders placed a cat under the floorboards to protect the building from “witches, warlocks, fire and evil spirits.” The family went bust. Did Myrtle have her revenge?

9. Australia’s Downton Abbey

Abbey Boutique Hotel in Warwick is a Victorian-gothic sandstone building built as a convent and school in 1891 for the Sisters of Mercy. Now it’s a couples-only retreat with massive four-poster canopied beds and deep claw baths. 

Mark Cains and Sonia Hunt lived on the Gold Coast and dreamt of renovating a historic building in Britain. Searching online, they came across an abbey they thought was in Warwick in England. 

“We were shocked to find the price was in Australian dollars. Here was the historical building of our dreams, only a few hours away,” said Sonia. 

The couple purchased the property in 2010 and transformed the convent into 16 magnificent guestrooms. 

They offer murder mystery and food and wine weekends and can incorporate trips on the Southern Downs Steam Railway. The Abbey has hosted a stream of dignitaries, including the president of Ireland, Michael Higgins.

But the celebrity you’ll most want to meet is Basil, the resident cat. His name is a reference to Basil Fawlty. If you love cats and don’t mind their eyes staring at you, stay in the Basil Suite decorated with huge pictures of Basil.

10. Country Stays

High-rise and corporate are the antitheses of what this community offers. Instead, stay amidst the vines in family-run wineries such as Whiskey Gully Wines and Heritage Estate.

Azjure Studio Retreat is Australia’s most highly awarded couples accommodation. 

Many locals have built cottages or extensions so city folk can stay. We enjoyed the king-sized beds and a garden setting at Accommodation Creek Cottages & Sundown Suites. A neighbor dropped over with a few bottles of her wine tucked under her arm. Our hosts, Jayne and Bevan, had built a bar in the garden for just such an occasion. The locals love to get together over a new wine. And if they can haul a tourist in for a tasting, the more the merrier. 

Pro Tip: Helpful planning websites include Granite Belt Wine Country, Southern Downs and Granite Belt, and Southern Queensland Country. The Southern Downs and Granite Belt Visitor App is a free resource.

One of the world’s most iconic drives, the Great Ocean Road (or GOR) coils the Australian coastline west of Melbourne. Serpentine loops and perilous drops make for a roller-coaster drive. With single lanes in each direction, signs warn: “Drive On The Left In Australia.”

Instead of renting a car, why not take public transport? That’s what I did.

This was my first time on the famous road by bus. When I mentioned my plan, my friends said, “What an adventure.” And it was. 

Instead of gripping the steering wheel, I’m immersed in nature. Coach windows are above roadside foliage. I can’t see the edge of the road, only perilous drops and waves crashing beneath. Below, I chronicle my trip — hopefully, you can learn from it on yours.

First Leg: Geelong 

My V/Line train departs Melbourne’s Southern Cross Station at 9:10 a.m. and reaches Geelong at 10:12 a.m.

The Great Ocean Road bus meets the train. The official start of the Great Ocean Road is Torquay, Australia’s surfing capital, home to the National Surfing Museum and birthplace of iconic surf brands Rip Curl and Quicksilver. 

The Great Ocean Road continues on and shadows the Surf Coast. My coach window screens a panorama of beach views — people surfing, fishing, swimming, mere dots on nature’s canvas. 

Pro Tips

V/Line tickets are available online or at Southern Cross Station. Grab a copy of the Apollo Bay Melbourne timetable — you’ll need it! After Apollo Bay, the halfway point, services dwindle to three times a week. My timetable was well thumbed. 

Start your journey in Geelong. See my article Geelong, Gateway to Australia’s Great Ocean Road.   

Stay At BIG4 Holiday Parks 

Choices. Travel the 41 miles to Lorne and return to Melbourne the same day; or on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, buses travel the full 150 miles of the Great Ocean Road to Warrnambool. A day full of views sounds tempting. But with over 30 coastal stops along the GOR, I recommend overnight stays at BIG4 Holiday Parks. Some I’ve been invited to visit.  

Conceived in 1979, BIG4 parks aren’t mere places to stay but ways to experience “true blue” Aussie holidays: closeness to nature, excellent facilities, and communal spaces where guests mingle. 

They’re perfect for international visitors, who can encounter Australian friendliness rather than the remoteness of holiday lets or hotel rooms. BIG4s are Australia-wide, with plenty along the Great Ocean Road. They offer cabins and glamping alongside more traditional camping or motorhome sites. 

My bus pulls into Aireys Inlet by lunchtime, and I walk across the road to BIG4 Aireys Inlet where I stay in a one-bedroom cabin with a separate bedroom, ensuite bathroom, cooking facilities, lounge, and outside deck. 

Walking the park’s circuit, I see new glamping safari tents with split system heating and air conditioning, four-poster queen beds, clawfoot baths, and private balconies. 

I chat to people about their rigs, where they’re from, and holiday plans. That’s standard practice in a BIG4, to walk and talk the circuit. 

Behold Beach Beauty At Aireys Inlet 

Melissa McDonald, the park manager, tells me about nearby activities. Eagles Nest Gallery, where local’s artwork echoes the area’s stunning colors and scenery, is across the road.  

In search of these scenes, I walk a dirt track to Sandy Gully Beach, so picturesque I feel I’ve entered one of the paintings. 

Walking the cliff-top path in the opposite direction, Split Point Lighthouse looms. The operational lighthouse offers self-paced tours. It has stairs, but landings to rest and 360-degree views — and memories if you saw the children’s TV series Round the Twist.

Pro Tip: Lighthouse Tea Rooms serve memorable Devonshire teas. 

Tastes And Tipples 

BIG4 Aireys Inlet is opposite Great Ocean Road Gin Tasting Room, and I’m not driving!

Owner Ann Houlihan has created a coastal gin to reflect the sense of place, using foraged botanicals such as coast daisy, saltbush, hop wattle, and eucalypt. Tastings come in crystal glasses on a silver tray, with yellow grapefruit peel for zing and mint for freshness. My favorite is raspberry gin liqueur. Local raspberries soaked in gin. Life doesn’t get much sweeter. 

Meals focus on Southeast Asian shared plates. Sitting in a gin garden on a summer evening with a G&T infused with yuzu, eating spicy food, feels like being in Asia.

Nearby Aireys Pub, a historic 1904 hotel, once risked being bulldozed by developers. Local mates bought it, and, as they say, “When the big wigs waltzed in and told us what beers we ‘had to have in our pub,’ we did what all good Australian pubs should do. We told them to bugger off.”

They started brewing their own, and Salt Brewing Co. was born. Try Ink, a beer brewed with coffee beans; or Salt Lager, named for their love of surfing. 

Next morning, Melissa mentions her husband is one of the brewers. This small, tight-knit community loves their rugged patch of coast and represents it in their art, food, and drink.

If you want to add a stop, Lorne, the next main town, will wow you with its historic hotels, boutique gift stores, cellars, eateries, and galleries.

Wye River Deep Relaxation

Why Wye River?  

Wye River is an hour by bus from Aireys Inlet and is on the other side of Lorne. I come here whenever I can. The drive here is a spectacular section with high cliff tops, tight corners, isolated beaches, and glorious views.

Don’t blink. You’ll miss your stop. Only 63 people live in Wye River. 

My bus pulls up at the beach opposite Wye General Store and Cafe and the Wye River Beach Hotel. 

BIG4 Wye River is a few steps away. The narrow entrance broadens to a hidden valley with the Wye River flowing through it. Caravanners and campers have idyllic sites on the banks. A charming riverside walk of ducks and dappled sunlight leads to the ocean. The 25-acre park is walled on one side by the Otway Ranges. Ask at the office about places to spot koalas. 

I sleep surrounded by the cacophony of bush sounds. My deluxe cabin has a master bedroom and stunning decor. The shower tiles are flecked with gold. The balcony overlooks a field where children jump on a giant inflatable pillow. Their parents demonstrate somersaults — an amusing sight. 

Like a limpet in a coastal wonderland, I watch the world float past. The procession of workers who maintain this park in pristine condition; retired couples walking hand-in-hand and active families freed from screens.

Mostly, I do the triangle — the cafe for fabulous meals and arguably the best coffee on the Great Ocean Road, the beach where a 20-minute ramble leads to tidal rock pools, and Wye River Pub for sunset drinks and gasp-worthy views over the surf break.

Wye River is a place with not much to do, but everything you do here is superlative. A place for heightened observation and deep relaxation.

Sadly, I’m only at Wye River for one night and await my bus the next day. But how many commuters get to stand on a beach to wait for their ride? They should be so lucky. 

Visit The Shipwreck Coast And 12 Apostles 

The Great Ocean Road now twines through the Otways. Gigantic tree ferns and ancient trees line the route. 

Glimpses of blue reappear as the coach reaches the Shipwreck Coast. Blasting winds and powerful waves have caused 700 historic shipwrecks, but also chiseled the limestone formations that make the Great Ocean Road world famous. 

V/Line factors in a 30-minute stop at the 12 Apostles, magnificent limestone monoliths standing upright in the Southern Ocean. And 15 minutes at Loch Ard Gorge, the site of one of Australia’s worst maritime disasters. Fifteen minutes is all it took for the Loch Ard to sink in 1878, killing all but two of the 54 people on board 

See the cliff that seaman Tom Pearce climbed after dragging himself and the only other survivor, Eva Carmichael, from the sea. As both were teenagers, the heroic story was a news sensation. Thousands of romantics sent letters and telegrams calling for the pair to marry. It was the puritan Victorian era. They had spent the night alone on a beach together, and Eva was in her nightdress! 

But in a Titanic-like twist, they came from different social classes (Eva’s father was a doctor). Their love was not to be. Perhaps this is why Loch Ard Gorge has become popular for wedding proposals. 

Discover Port Campbell, A Safe Haven 

I’d booked a motel in Port Campbell but wish I’d stayed closer to town. 

I thought Sow and Piglets, a micro-brewery/hostel, close to the bus stop would be too noisy.  Now able to visit, I find a great vibe. There are impressive apartments away from the dormitories. Nearby Port Campbell Hotel has a charming, old-fashioned dining room and inexpensive rooms. Next time!

Port Campbell’s beach is the town’s heart. It has the bluest of waters sheltered by limestone cliffs and Norfolk pines. Fiery sunsets guaranteed. This is the safest place to swim along this dangerous stretch of coast. A safe haven on the edge of nature’s wild lashings. 

Stroll to Port Campbell Jetty and watch waves crash against limestone cliffs. The Discovery Walk crosses a suspension bridge, climbs 191 stairs, and follows a 2.5-mile path with fabulous views to Sentinel Rock and the 12 Apostles. 

Port Campbell has an abundance of restaurants for a population of 500. Some overlook the beach. My favorite, Forage on the Foreshore, uses ingredients the owners either forage or grow.

Staying in Port Campbell for two nights to fit in with the bus timetable, I experience how friendly and obliging the locals are. One man is waiting for his daughter’s school bus when he sees me rolling my suitcase down the street. He jumps in his car to drive me to my motel. 

The town makes sure tourists are covered for meals. At 12 Rocks Beach Bar, I ask the waiter if they are open tomorrow. “We’re closed, but the pub’s open,” he says. “They closed for us tonight. Tomorrow we return the favor. “

Warrnambool, Whales, And Oddball

My fifth day away, and my bus connects with a V/Line train to Melbourne. But Warrnambool is blessed with beaches and charming architecture, so I opt for another night away.

Centrally located Figtree Holiday Park is a 20-minute walk from the station or $10 by taxi. Accommodations include tent sites with ensuites, family suites, and studios with spa baths. Owners Scott and Donna previously ran an upmarket bed and breakfast in the Yarra Valley, and it shows. 

My deluxe cabin reflects Donna’s flair for interiors. She’s picked out the same grays, olive greens, and frothy whites of the ocean painting on my wall in the throw rugs, cushions, and even the pot plants. Deluxe touches included a coffee machine, upmarket toiletries, and an outdoor ice bucket for drinks on the porch. The park has tennis courts and a massive, heated indoor swimming pool.  

In place of rules plastered everywhere comes a simple message.“You are on holiday. So enjoy yourself and time spent with loved ones.”

From Figtree, I can walk to Fletcher Jones Market, Warrnambool Art Gallery, the beach, restaurants, and Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village.

Having previously visited Warrnambool’s Geothermal Hot Pools, I know the city. But decide on a 3-hour Warrnambool Wanderer Tour with long-time local Fiona Van Kempen to find out more.

Sharing her local knowledge and binoculars, Fiona takes me to Logans Beach Whale Nursery, with its viewing platform for the Southern Right whales. Another highlight is Pavilion Cafe, where early morning patrons can watch racehorses exercise in the sea. 

Middle Island is closed to public access. With binoculars, it’s exciting to spot the resident white Maremma sheepdog guarding the penguin colony against foxes. The basis of the movie Oddball. 

Fiona drops me off at the train service. I’ve been gone 5 days, but the train whisks me back to Melbourne in 3.5 hours.  

Extra: Great Ocean Walks 

The Surf Coast Walk from Torquay to Aireys Inlet and the Great Ocean Walk from Apollo Bay to the Twelve Apostles offer incredible views. Overnight campsites or more luxurious options. Public transport is useful for drop-offs so you can walk segments. Visitor centers at Port Campbell and Apollo Bay offer advice, and Parks Victoria has created helpful strip maps.

Related Reading:

• Great Barrier Reef Road Trip: Bundaberg To Daintree
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Fiji and Bora Bora are both dream island destinations in the South Pacific. Fabulous beaches, tropical vegetation, and colorful marine life together with excellent accommodations and a great variety of activities make these two islands desirable and popular vacation destinations. But there are also plenty of differences that need to be considered before making your choice between the two.

Fiji is an island nation comprised of more than 300 islands and islets. It is located approximately 1,300 miles northeast of New Zealand. Bora Bora, by contrast, is just one island surrounded by many sand-fringed islets, called motus, and a coral reef–protected lagoon. It is located just northwest of Tahiti and is part of French Polynesia. The distance between these two islands is 2,000 miles, so there is a lot of ocean between them.

1. Size, Geography, And Climate

The two main islands of Fiji are called Viti Levu and Vanua Levu. Eighty-seven percent of the population lives on these two islands. 

Viti Levu is the location of the capital, Suva. Two other important cities on Viti Levu are Nadi, where the international airport is located, and Lautoka with its sugar cane mills and a seaport. 

There are also the island groups of Mamanuca and Yasawa just to the west of Fiji. Mamanuca is famous for turquoise waters and is a paradise for experienced surfers, while Yasawa is known for quality beaches. The most outlying island group in Fiji is Ono-i-Lau.

Fiji is one of the most developed economic regions of the Pacific, with the main source of income being tourism, forests, minerals, fish, and sugar cane.

Fiji has a hot, humid, and rainy season from December to April. The islands are of volcanic origin, and eruptions occasionally still occur. The highest elevation is Mount Tomanivi on Viti Levu. The ecosystem of Fiji is divided into tropical moist forests and tropical dry forests. The interior of the islands is sparsely populated, with a concentration of inhabitants along the coastlines.

Due to it being only one island, there is no island hopping on Bora Bora — unless you consider trips to the small motus or a day trip to Tahiti, as it is around 160 miles from its western coast.

Bora Bora is surrounded by its major attractions, the multicolored lagoon and its protective barrier reef. The island’s interior is dominated by the two peaks of extinct volcanos, Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu.

The major city, Vaitape, is located on the west side of the island, whereas the airport is on Motu Mole. There are several flights a day to Papeete. The main source of income for Bora Bora is tourism; the production of copra, derived from the island’s coconut trees, has lost importance.

The official language of Bora Bora is French, but due to the many visitors from the U.S. and Australia, English is no problem. Fiji has three official languages: English, Fijian, and Hindi.

Bora Bora’s dry season, and the best to visit, is from May to October.

2. Getting There And Getting Around

Getting to Fiji from the U.S. takes many hours, but it’s relatively easy because there are direct flights from LA to Nadi Airport. There are also flights from Vancouver via Honolulu.

Traveling to Bora Bora is a bit more complicated, as you have to make your way to Tahiti first. From there, there are flights to Bora Bora, but the airport is on a motu surrounded by water, which means you will need an (expensive) water taxi to take you to your hotel.

Getting around Fiji is quite easy. Highways encircle the two major islands, so you can rent a car and drive. Other options are taxis (make sure they are metered), buses (if you are not in a rush — but then again, who is on an idyllic island?), ferries, and flights (which are the fastest way). Here is a good overview of the transportation system in Fiji.

Pro Tip: It is tempting to explore the many islands of Fiji and to visit off-the-beaten-path locations and villages. Be aware that you can’t just walk into a village though. A gift-giving ceremony called sevusevu is requested. You must bring a small gift, usually kava, to the chief of the village and thereby ask permission to visit. Not doing so is considered disrespectful and may even be construed as trespassing.

On Bora Bora, your best choice of transportation is to rent a bicycle. The entire island has only a circumference of 18 miles, so it doesn’t take you long to traverse the island. If you want more exotic transportation, you can take a bus called Le Truck. They are notoriously unpredictable, but if you see one approaching, you can just stop it where you stand and it takes you around the island. There are hiking paths through ancient villages and lush vegetation, with tours by friendly and knowledgeable guides from Polynesian Island Tours. Hiking tours are available every day with the exception of Sunday. For the very fit and adventurous, there is even a 6-hour climb to the peak of Mount Pahia.

Many of the great resorts of Bora Bora sit on their own motu and offer shuttle services to the main island. There are also water taxis and boat excursions to explore wherever you desire.

3. Beaches

Being the beautiful South Pacific islands they are, beaches are, of course, an important feature of both. The main difference between Fiji and Bora Bora is that Fiji has more beaches because the archipelago is larger — but they are also more difficult to get to as they are spread out. The beaches of Bora Bora are of equal quality, but far less in number. They are easier to get to due to the small size of the island. 

On the other hand, many Bora Bora beaches are private on motus, owned by the resorts that are located there — and therefore have to be paid for. The only public, and arguably most beautiful, beach on Bora Bora is called Matira Beach, but as such, it can get crowded, so make sure to arrive early to reserve your spot.

The most beautiful beaches of Fiji are on the outer islands, with one exception: Natadola Beach on Viti Levu. It is only accessible by taxi and you have to pay to enter the resort, but you can redeem the money if you eat there or use their spa. Another fabulous beach only to be reached by boat is the exclusive Horseshoe Bay at Matangi Private Island Resort. They also have tree houses, so you might consider spending the night.

4. Cost Of Vacation

Let’s say it up front: None of the South Pacific islands come cheap, and neither Fiji nor Bora Bora are an exception. Having said that, Fiji is more affordable than Bora Bora. In Bora Bora, everything, not just the luxurious accommodations, costs an arm and a leg. Even everyday items like toothpaste or sunscreen.

If you are looking for a full-out, no-expenses-spared luxury stay, Bora Bora is the better option. This has a lot to do with the fact that Bora Bora is a very popular honeymoon destination. We have already mentioned the private resorts that offer you everything you could desire… for a price.

In Fiji, due to the fact that there are so many islands to choose from, you can find somewhat cheaper, but rather basic accommodations in the form of bures, which are traditional Fijian bungalows with thatched roofs. On the other hand, luxurious overwater bungalows are also available, like the Marriott Resort overlooking Momi Bay.

5. Dining Experience

Bora Bora is part of French Polynesia, therefore the cuisine influence is French. The top ingredients are fish and fresh fruit. A Bora Boar specialty is poisson cru, which is raw tuna marinated in lime juice and coconut milk. Pineapple, bananas, and coconut all grow locally and therefore are delicious and fresh.

In Fiji, Indian cuisine dominates because some 47 percent of the population is of Indian descent. As on Bora Bora, fish is a major ingredient, but so are sweet potatoes, cassava, coconut, curries, and nan bread. A Fiji specialty is lovo: a mixed barbecue of meat, fish, and vegetables, wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in an underground oven.

A word about kava, the typical island drink: Be aware that it is a totally legal, mild narcotic that might leave your lips slightly numb or tingling. Kava is not only a drink but also a lifestyle, subject to ceremonies and used to celebrate reunions and socializing. That’s why kava plays a major role whenever you are visiting a Fijian home or village. It’s made from the root of a pepper plant and brewed in a big bowl that is passed around and drunk by every member of the meeting. An important part to remember whenever you are participating in a kava ceremony: never ever wear anything on your head, not even your sunglasses.

6. Culture And Vibe

Bora Bora is influenced by French traditions, and being such a small island, it invites a quiet island life. People are very friendly and welcoming. If you choose the bicycle option to get around, don’t miss looking at some ancient Polynesian temples.

Life in Fiji is more urban, especially in Nadi, which has a large Indian population. Visit the largest and newest Hindu temple in the southern hemisphere, Sri Siva Subramaniya.

Pro Tip

The people of both islands are extremely friendly and polite, so reciprocate by learning these words: Bula (“welcome”) for Fiji and la orana (“hello”) for Bora Bora. It will bring a smile to people’s faces every time.

Related Reading:

• 4 Islands To Explore During Your Trip To Fiji
• 8 Tips For Your First Visit To Bora Bora
• Why You Must Stay In This Bora Bora Overwater Bungalow Once In Your Lifetime
• Bora Bora Vs. Moorea: 5 Key Differences To Know Before You Visit

Australia has been associated with many things, mostly adventurous and sporty vacations, with a dash of unique nature and wildlife, and a lot of empty countryside in between. Romance might not be the first thing that springs to mind when thinking of Australia, but it should. From mind-blowingly beautiful beaches to exciting cities, and yes, that amazing countryside, there are many truly and incredibly romantic experiences to be found in Australia.

I was lucky enough to call Australia home for a few years, traveled around the country, and found myself sitting back many times, sighing contentedly and feeling utterly blessed and dreamy, thinking life does not get any more romantic than this.

Here I list some of my most cherished romantic experiences to be found in Australia, quite varied experiences, but all utterly recommended to anybody coming to the Land Down Under, be it part of a two-some or on your own. After all, romance doesn’t necessarily only have to involve a significant other, it can also be that feeling of mystery, bliss, or being away from normal life in a simply beautiful setting or situation.

If you are after romance, and want to fall in love with Australia, then follow me.

1. Sunset Dinner At Uluru, Northern Territory

One of my most cherished memories of Australia involves the Sounds of Silence, an al fresco dinner in the Red Center, the red desert around Uluru in the middle of Australia. This is a luxury dinner, tablecloths and champagne and all. While the food and the drink were lovely, it was the location, and the experience which made it the most romantic experience in Australia for me. Not only was it timed to see the sun set behind an orange-glowing, gigantic monolith but the evening was also organized around story-telling. A local raconteur not only told diners about Indigenous folklore but told stories relating to the stars that were slowly appearing above us in the night sky, using them as guides for tales, science, and local lore. Accompanied by well-prepared bush-tucker — and not big living grubs, don’t worry, just freshly, locally-sourced ingredients — and good wine, this is an evening to bring out the romantic in anyone.

Pro Tip: To stay nearby, you have the Ayers Rock Resort, which is split into several different types of accommodation. From the super-luxurious Longitude 131, with an eye-watering price tag; the lovely Sails in the Desert, very comfortable but also affordable; simple camping grounds; and more, it’s all within easy distance of a central hub with some shops and amenities.

2. Open Air Opera In Sydney, New South Wales

One of my favorite music venues in the world is not necessarily the Sydney Opera House, although it is pretty spectacular, but the much more romantic Open Air Opera on Sydney Harbour. Set up in the Sydney Botanical Gardens with a stage floating in the harbor and a backdrop of both the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge, flying foxes flit overhead and cockatoos screech at the sunset. But everything comes to a hush once it’s dark and the performance starts, that is truly special. Such a great experience, I get goosebumps just remembering it. They tend to put on popular operas, such as La Traviata or Carmen, operas that can be enjoyed even if you are not necessarily an aficionado, and sometimes there are even musicals, such as The Phantom of the Opera, instead of just opera. The setting, together with the music, is simply and incredibly romantic and unique.

Pro Tip: Splash out and dine at the venue and get the most expensive seats you can possibly afford — it is worth it.

3. Kuranda Scenic Rail Trip, Queensland

There is something utterly romantic about a historic train ride, and even more so when it goes through stunning scenery, past waterfalls, and along narrow precipices. Then, you can sit back and look out of the window with a glass of wine in hand. The small artsy town of Kuranda, just inland from Cairns, is best reached by cable car, and then you can return to Cairns via the Kuranda Scenic Railway, getting the best of both worlds. 

Pro Trip: Go Gold Class. Not much more expensive, you have fewer people in the carriage and get not only a glass or two of wine but also some lovely, locally-produced nibbles to munch on the way.

4. Heart Reef And Whitehaven Beach, Queensland

And here, we have the epitome of romance. No, not Paris, but a heart-shaped natural coral reef and what is probably the most beautiful beach in the world. Both are found off the coast of Queensland and are best enjoyed by helicopter. Heart Reef itself is not suitable to be visited, but just flying over it offers romance galore. Whereas nearby Whitehaven Beach can not only be visited, but you can also book a helicopter dropping off you and a picnic hamper complete with chilled champagne and leaving you to enjoy the natural beauty of the beach and the ocean before picking you up again. Does romance get any better than that?

Pro Tip: The Whitsunday Islands are best explored by boat, and you can combine a day trip cruise with a helicopter trip over Heart Reef and a visit to Whitehaven Beach for the best of all worlds. 

5. Walk To Fort Nepean, Victoria

The Mornington Peninsula is one of my favorite places in Australia. It’s one of the two peninsulas (nearly) circling Port Phillip Bay. It is full of beautiful vineries, scenic nature, and lovely small towns, cafes, and restaurants. It also offers a stunning and easy walk right to the end of the peninsula, looking out over the small gap between the two peninsulas. The gap is not just the only way for ships to get into the bay and to Melbourne, but is also very popular with dolphins. Walk from a car park south of Portsea to the end of the land, past Fort Nepean, a former look-out and defense post, and along some of the most beautiful beaches around. It’s full of smooth driftwood, great surroundings, barely a soul nearby, and, chances are, dolphins swimming past not far from you.

Pro Tip: Rent a car in Melbourne, drive down the Mornington Peninsula, scheduling stops for tastings at the various vineries. Then take the ferry across from Sorrento to the Bellarine Peninsula. Stop off at Geelong before heading back to Melbourne. This can be done in a day but is much better when enjoyed over several days.

6. Hot Air Balloon Over The Winelands, Victoria

It was for a birthday that my husband organized a stay outside Melbourne, something that confused me because we could have easily slept at home, but it made sense when he woke me at 5 a.m. the next morning. We were off on a hot air balloon ride across the Yarra Valley, one of the wine regions around Melbourne, followed by a champagne breakfast. And, although I am not a morning person at all, it was simply gorgeous watching the sunrise, the land waking up, and the expanse of countryside stretching below. After a lovely flight and a very safe and somewhat uneventful landing, we had a sparkling breakfast at one of the largest wine estates in the Yarra Valley, the Balgownie Estate. A beautiful, romantic start to a birthday.

Pro Tip: Why not compliment your romantic day with dinner at Vue de Monde, one of my favorite luxurious restaurants in Australia, with a view across Melbourne that can only be beaten by a hot air balloon?

7. Stay At Saffire Freycinet, Tasmania

Tasmania is a wild isle with romance akin to the novel Wuthering Heights, with plenty of countryside and adventure to be had. Among all the wildernes,s there is utter luxury and romantic seclusion to be enjoyed at Saffire Freycinet. This sleek retreat with just 20 rooms and suites, which can be booked all-inclusively, is most famous for its views, while the exquisite food comes in close second. From countryside hikes and learning how to keep bees to looking at an oyster farm or an excursion to find out more about the misunderstood Tasmanian Devils — which are so unlike that snarling old cartoon devil — you have the makings of a romantic stay in one of the most remote islands in the world.

Pro Tips: When in Tasmania, you should not miss Hobart, the little capital. Utterly hip, and as devoted to good food as the rest of Tasmania, there is history to be found and markets and art to be enjoyed. Book yourself into the gorgeous and romantic Henry Jones Art Hotel near the old harbor, just steps away from superb restaurants.

The long and the short of it; Australia has some remarkable train trips. 

There are long haul train journeys such as The Ghan — the longest passenger train in the world — slicing Australia from top to bottom through the Red Centre.

Each state has historic railways with short runs. These are in scenic places and showcase Australia’s unique rail history. 

My son is to blame for my train obsession. He loved trains as a child and to feed his interest I would take him on steam trains. Now in his mid 20s I can’t remember the last time he traveled by train but my journeys continue. 

I shared some of my favorite trips in 8 Incredible Vintage Train Rides In Australia. Here are 11 more trains worth the ticket to ride.

1. The Great Southern

Brisbane To Adelaide 

In December and January, the wet season sweeps across the Top End. The famous Ghan can’t run due to the chance of flooding on the tracks. Instead, the Great Southern, another service by Journey Beyond Rail Expeditions, borrows the Ghan’s carriages. This summer-only route covers the 1,242 miles between Adelaide and Brisbane.

Like the Ghan, the Great Southern offers sumptuous dining, fine wines, and Platinum and Gold-class carriages. I’ve traveled in a Gold Twin — a lavish experience.​ The carriages were refurbished at a cost of $2 million each. 

Trainspotters with tripods are out in force. Making passengers feel like rockstars. 

The multi-day journey is inclusive of side excursions to the Barossa or Hunter wine region; Canberra, Australia’s capital; the Grampians; and Coffs Harbour’s sun-kissed beaches. 

Pro Tip: Brisbane or Adelaide departures with these packages.

2. The Overland

Melbourne To Adelaide

The Overland has linked Adelaide and Melbourne since 1887, making it the oldest direct inter-capital rail service in Australia. The name refers to the “overlanders,” or colonists, who pushed forward into Australia’s hinterlands with bullock-drawn drays in search of pastoral land in the 19th century. 

The Overland’s symbol is the Emu, a bird which cannot fly but runs with speed and grace across wide-open lands. You could fly from Melbourne to Adelaide in an hour and 20 minutes. A run in the Overland takes all day. But oh, the scenery! Past the silvery lakes of the Wimmera, Victoria’s wheat-growing belt, the craggy Grampians, and the Adelaide Hills famous vineyards.

The Red Standard class offers value-for-money. The Red Premium is an all-inclusive in-seat dining and trolley service offering breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea. All passengers can access the licensed buffet bar.

Pro Tip: The Overland operates two services a week in each direction and links with The Ghan and the Indian Pacific. 

3. Spirit Of Queensland

Brisbane To Cairns 

Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No, it’s a train! The Spirit of Queensland is as streamlined as any aircraft with reclining seats, overhead lockers, and in-seat entertainment.

The 1,045-mile journey from Brisbane to Cairns takes 24 hours but you can break the journey at Noosa on the Sunshine Coast, Hervey Bay (with access to Fraser Island), and Townsville. Cairns, the final destination, is the base for the Great Barrier Reef, and the Daintree. 

The service offers Premium Economy or RailBed Class similar to business class on airlines. Attendants recline the seats into flatbeds. They serve meals with a paddock-to-plate focus rather than airline food!

The Spirit of Queensland runs from Brisbane to Cairns five times a week. 

4. Mary Valley Rattler

Gympie, Queensland 

Get on board! Hear the toot and the clickety-clack as you round the track. The Mary Valley Rattler is a beloved old-fashioned steam train. This tourist railway is in Gympie, a town 2 hours north of Brisbane, or behind the Sunshine Coast, should you be staying there. The scenic journey is through the Mary Valley, an area punctuated by misty hills, valleys, foodie haunts, and opportunities to kayak with platypuses. Enjoy the Historic Gympie Station, a traditional Queensland building restored to its glory days. Historical displays share stories of the Mary Valley Railway line. The Rattler’s 29-mile scenic return trip crosses the Mary River and chugs around curves and across bridges. At Amamoor, see the engine turned on the turntable. Experience the Rattler Tasting Train where you board the vintage railmotor RM76 and enjoy local cheese, sourdough, and other delights. On Sunday, their All Stations Train means wine and cheese tastings for a $5 donation to a community group. Tourists also love the Rusty Rails Café in the restored railway station dining area. The Mary Valley Rattler was a Tripadvisor Travellers’ Choice Award Winner.

5. The Q Train

Victoria 

If you love heritage trains and fine dining, this is the train to catch. Australia’s premier and award-winning rail restaurant, the Q Train, departs from the historic Drysdale Train Station, near Geelong. The journey offers stunning views of Swan Bay and the Bellarine particularly at sunset. The journey showcases the local food, wine, beer, and cider from the Bellarine Peninsula. Not simply a meal, this is a six-course dégustation journey created by chefs. Expect platings like Sage Farm-salted beef with pear, pepper, wasabi aioli, sesame oil, dehydrated tomato, and Thai basil. The Q Train uses renovated and restored carriages from Queensland’s retired Sunlander and one of its steam engines is from the famous Kuranda Scenic Railway.

Pro Tip: Drysdale Station is a 90-minute drive from Melbourne, or arrive via Port Phillip Ferries departing Melbourne’s Docklands.

6. Byron Bay Train

New South Wales

This is one hip trip. Byron Bay runs the world’s only full-sized, fully solar-powered train. The immaculately restored 1949-era, two-carriage heritage train was converted to solar power. The 1.86-mile coastal track links the Byron Town Center with the North Beach precinct and Byron Arts Estate. The 10 minutes one-way, or 25-minute return journey, passes through rainforest, endangered coastal wetlands, and over Belongil Creek, part of Cape Byron Marine Park. The train holds a capacity of 92 seated passengers, and their surfboards!

7. Scenic Railway

New South Wales

This may be the shortest but most thrilling ride of your life. Boasting the Guinness World Record for the world’s steepest railway, the funicular in the Blue Mountains behind Sydney was built for mining in the 19th century before being converted to a tourist ride in 1945. Following an award-winning redevelopment in 2013, the fifth-generation train travels an unforgettable route through a cliff tunnel before emerging on the floor of the Jamison Valley. Passengers choose their level of adventure, by adjusting their seated position. Choose the 64-degree incline if you want the Cliffhanger!

8. Victorian Goldfields Railway

Victoria

The Goldfields Railway is a historical train service running between Castlemaine (around 2 hours’ drive from Melbourne) and the historic village of Maldon. I rode this wonderful railway recently on one of Victoria’s 100 degree Fahrenheit days. I appreciated the air conditioned carriages in first class and the bar. There’s something about watching the world slip by while sipping bubbles. Despite the heat, I couldn’t resist heading out to the external observation deck — like something out of an old western movie. Although, the scenes were Austalian and included locations from The Dressmaker starring Kate Winslett and Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries.

The love and restoration that has gone into this heritage railway is extraordinary. Popular events include their Murder on the Orient Express nights where the journey includes a screening of the famous movie. The art deco and Edwardian parlor carriages are perfect for the occasion. Ales on Rails showcases the local brews and driver experience packages. You might finally get to drive a train. 

Pro Tip: Like in many of Australia’s tinderbox areas, diesel rather than steam engines are used in summer. 

9. Hotham Valley Tourist Railway

Western Australia

Dwellingup, in the Darling Range near Perth, was named 2021 Top Small Tourism Town in western Australia. The town’s historic Hotham Valley Railway is part of the attraction. Once serving the timber industry and agricultural areas, the steam trains now run weekly (May to October). On the return journey, there’s the thrill of a Steam Locomotive hard at work climbing western Australia’s steepest and most spectacular section of railway. The suspense of wondering whether it will make it is all part of the thrill. A vintage diner train runs on Saturdays, the forest softly lit for the occasion. Advanced bookings are recommended.

10. Alexandra Timber Tramway

Victoria 

A tourist railway is in the foothills of the Great Dividing Range in Alexandra 81 miles northeast of Melbourne. Experience the era of bush sawmills and tramways in the Rubicon Forest as they were during the early 1900s. View an extensive rolling stock including the first Victorian-built diesel locomotives. Experience a quaint tramway ride and learn more about narrow gauge and timber tramways at the museum. Pioneers lived with their families deep in the bush, their only connection to the outside world through these tramways. A number of them tragically lost their lives in the 1939 bushfires leading to a ban of rebuilding the mills in the forest — the end of an era and a unique slice of Australian history.

Pro Tip: Trains run on select weekends each month and for special events. 

11. Yarra Valley Tourist Railway

Victoria 

One of our favorite rides when my son was little was the Yarra Valley Tourist Railway; a chance to experience a 1950s Walker RM22 Railmotor and an exciting ride through an 1889 brick-built tunnel (stretching 500 feet through the tunnel hill). During the 30-minute ride, spot kangaroos in the paddocks, and chug past vineyards. Like many of Australia’s restored railways, the rides exist because of the tireless work of dedicated volunteers. Over 500 have helped keep this railway running. 

Pro Tip: The Yarra Valley is a famous wine region outside of Melbourne. Take the opportunity to visit Healesville Sanctuary to meet Australian wildlife. TarraWarra Museum of Art is a striking modern art gallery.

Many first-time visitors to French Polynesia spend time on this trifecta of islands: Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora. 

You must land on the island of Tahiti if you’re arriving by air from an international destination, so that makes it easy to spend a few nights exploring the largest island in French Polynesia. However, Tahiti is quite developed, and it’s home to the urban capital of Papeete, with its bustling downtown and large ferry and cruise ship terminal.

So, some folks make plans to quickly scoot to another one of the nearby Society Islands to get to that gorgeous aquamarine water, those white sandy beaches lined with palm trees, and the luxurious overwater bungalows the smaller islands are known for. 

Moorea is a quick and easy ferry ride (30 minutes) or plane ride (10 minutes) away from Tahiti, so that’s a popular first island stop for visitors — not only for its ease of access but also for its lush mountainsides and fantastic snorkeling opportunities amid bright coral reefs. 

Bora Bora is slightly further afield, but it’s likely on many travelers’ agendas because it’s well known by name and boasts splurge-worthy chic accommodations.

My husband and I spent time on both Bora Bora and Moorea on a recent 12-day trip to French Polynesia. There are similarities between the islands, for sure — they are both part of French Polynesia after all — so you’ll find similar local foods (including delectable poisson cru), use the same currency (Central Pacific Francs), and experience common tropical weather patterns (a wet season and dry season) on each island.

That said, there are some key differences to be aware of as well. Here’s what you need to know before you spend time on Bora Bora and Moorea, or if you’re trying to choose between visiting one or the other:

1. You Can Reach Moorea By Ferry Or Plane

As I mentioned above, Moorea is the closest major island to the island of Tahiti. You can book a 30-minute ferry ride from Papeete to Moorea for under $15 one-way on one of two ferry companies: Terevau and Aremiti. 

We took the ferry simply to experience a different mode of transportation on our trip. We liked getting a different perspective of the area on the water (plus we knew we’d be flying to Bora Bora later, so we’d get that bird’s-eye-view, too). The ferries are reliable and clean, and they offer snack bars and plenty of seating. 

One-way flights from Faa’a International Airport (PPT) to Moorea (MOZ) are currently as low as $70 on Air Tahiti.

There is no commercial ferry service to Bora Bora, so plan on taking an inter-island flight on Air Tahiti there. We flew to Bora Bora from Moorea, and we touched down on the island of Huahine en route, though there are non-stop flights available also. 

Pro Tip: If you plan to visit several islands on your French Polynesia vacation, consider purchasing an Air Tahiti Multi-islands Pass. These bundled airfare deals that cover multiple destinations will likely be considerably cheaper than booking the flights individually. 

2. Moorea Offers Both Cheap And Upscale Accommodations

There are some family-run lodges and vacation rentals at moderate prices available on Bora Bora — but they’re few and far between. If you’re going to visit Bora Bora, I suggest you embrace the expense and go big on one of the sprawling upscale resorts and roomy overwater bungalows the island is known for.

Moorea offers much more variety when it comes to budget, moderate, and expensive lodging — so if you do want to save a few dollars by booking a vacation rental or guesthouse (pension), this would be a great place to do it. 

While on Moorea, we had a delicious dinner at Fare Maheata, and we loved the laid-back vibe of the beachfront restaurant. This is also a guesthouse with basic bungalows for visiting guests. Room rates, currently starting at about $135 per night, include breakfast, and the rooms are steps away from a nice lagoon for kayaking, snorkeling, and stand-up paddleboarding — plus the folks who run it are friendly and the food was great!

We stayed down the road at the decidedly more expensive Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa. An overwater bungalow here can start at $1,000 a night in high season. That said, when my husband and I visited in November 2021, we scored a fabulous five-night package deal on Travelzoo that reduced the nightly price to about $550 per night for an overwater bungalow — with daily breakfast, a dinner, and a lunch thrown in, too. 

Pro Tip: Sign up for Travelzoo’s weekly newsletter to scour deals at resorts on Moorea and throughout French Polynesia.

3. The Most Expensive Hotels On Bora Bora Are On Remote Motus

Four Seasons, Conrad, InterContinental, St. Regis, and Le Meridien are some of the most luxurious hotel brands on Bora Bora, and they’re all located on motus (islets) that are only accessible by boat. Each resort charges a pretty penny to pick you up from the Bora Bora Airport and transfer you to their property in their own water taxis. 

For example, to get to the InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa, it’ll cost you about $70 per person. So be sure to factor that fee into your budget as you plan your trip.

Pro Tip: The InterContinental Le Moana Bora Bora Resort is located on the main island of Bora Bora, not a more remote motu, or islet. You can take the free Air Tahiti water shuttle to Vaitepe and then transfer to a taxi to travel by road to the resort for just $24. The InterContinental’s Le Moana Resort isn’t as fancy as its sister Thalasso property (and it lacks a divine spa), but it’s a great option if you’d like to spend a little less on your Bora Bora vacation overall and still stay in a spacious overwater bungalow on a beautiful lagoon.

4. It’s Easy To Navigate Moorea By Car Or Bike

Unlike Bora Bora which requires traveling by water to get around if you’re staying on a motu, Moorea is more easily navigable. One 37-mile road rings the coast along the entire island. Car, scooter, and bike rentals are readily available, so if you like to explore and sightsee on your own, it’s easy to do on Moorea. It’s hard to get lost on this single coastal road!

You’ll find car rental locations at the ferry terminal, at the airport, and at other tourist centers, for example, in Tiahura on the north shore of the island. 

One inland excursion that’s popular is a quick and easy drive to Belvedere Lookout for views of surrounding volcanic mountains and pristine bays. 

Pro Tip: Ask about 4- or 8-hour rentals if you just want to borrow a car for a day’s excursion. 

5. We Found The Snorkeling Better And More Convenient On Moorea

When we booked our five-night package at the Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa, we didn’t realize we’d have such easy access to some of the most outstanding snorkeling available on the entire island. 

Indeed, multiple coral reefs, where colorful tropical fish make their home, are plentiful in the lagoon right under and next to overwater bungalows here. We also spent time in lounge chairs under a palapa on the resort’s beach, wading out into the water from the beach for more amazing snorkeling — which also included eagle rays and stingrays!

In contrast, at both of the resorts we stayed at on Bora Bora, there were fewer reefs located right on property, so we didn’t see nearly as many fish — despite the area’s crystal-clear aquamarine water. 

Instead, on Bora Bora, we rented our own pontoon boat to experience some excellent snorkeling, including spotting schools of fish in a “coral garden” and rays in a shallow lagoon not far from the InterContinental Le Moana Resort & Spa. Snorkeling in deep water from a boat was a different and enjoyable experience — one well worth our time. But we much more appreciated the ease of hopping in the lagoon from our Moorea overwater bungalow — whenever we wanted, several times a day — to spy spotted pufferfish, striped butterflyfish, and orange clownfish. 

Pro Tip: Bring your own snorkel gear so you can explore the amazing and colorful underwater world at your leisure without having to borrow a snorkel and mask from your hotel’s activity desk, or book a tour to use an outfitter’s gear.

Bora Bora And Moorea Are Both Well Worth A Visit

If time and budget allow, I’d say both Moorea and Bora Bora are worth a visit. If you must choose, Moorea is easier (and cheaper) to get to from Tahiti, and the island affords some amazing snorkeling — as well as other great adventures to be had on land and on the water, from ATV rides and food tours to sunset cruises and day hikes.

That said, the upscale resorts of Bora Bora offer couples the ultimate in a romantic tropical destination — those opulent overwater bungalows, in my opinion, are worth every penny for exceeding expectations on a bucket-list dream trip. 

Both islands have stunning scenery, including lush green mountains, bright turquoise lagoons, and jaw-dropping orange sunsets — plus plenty of opportunities for both relaxation and activity. I don’t think you can go wrong choosing one island over the other for your idyllic South Pacific vacation.

For tips and experiences on and around Bora Bora, check out these stories:

• 8 Tips For Your First Visit To Bora Bora
• My 11 Favorite Beaches To Visit In The World
• My 5 Favorite Small-Ship River And Ocean Cruises

Surrounded by the most beautiful aquamarine water I’ve ever seen, Bora Bora is every bit as amazing as those magazine ads and tourism office videos make it out to be. I recently spent 5 nights at this romantic South Pacific destination as part of a 12-day vacation in French Polynesia. My husband and I deemed it our best vacation ever.

We fell in love with Bora Bora for its jaw-dropping beauty, its water activities above and below the surface, its super friendly residents, and, of course, its romantic and luxurious overwater bungalows — we certainly felt like newlyweds again at this popular honeymoon spot.

That said, Bora Bora isn’t easy to get to, and it’s a rather expensive locale. If you’re planning your first trip to Bora Bora, here are a few things you should know before you arrive on this remarkable and unique island destination.

1. Bora Bora Is Actually Made Up Of Multiple Islands

Bora Bora, formed by volcanic eruption millions of years ago, is composed of a main island that’s only about 12 square miles. It’s surrounded by a gorgeous turquoise lagoon and a ring of motus, or islets. Some tourist accommodations are found on the main island, whose principal town is Vaitepe, while others, including the most upscale resorts featuring multiple overwater bungalows, are on the more remote islets. 

2. You Must Fly To Tahiti First

All international travelers who arrive by air must land at Tahiti’s Faa’a International Airport (PPT) first. Depending on your flight arrival time, you might transfer immediately to a domestic flight to Bora Bora. Or you could stay for the night (or longer) on the island of Tahiti. 

If you’re planning just a quick overnight on Tahiti, consider one of these properties close to the airport: the budget Tahiti Airport Motel (bare bones and basic) or the more upscale InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa (a gorgeous property with multiple pools, overwater bungalow options, and a great oceanfront location for watching the sunset). 

3. The Bora Bora Airport Is On A Motu

Upon landing at the Bora Bora Airport (BOB), you’ll cast your eyes on the crystal-clear water that the island is known for. Then, once you’re done gaping and make your way into the airport (you’ll deplane on an open-air tarmac), you’ll look for your resort’s representative among the many lined up at water-taxi stands.

That’s because the airport is on one of the long skinny motus and the vast majority of accommodations on Bora Bora are only reachable by boat. The fanciest resorts charge an arm and a leg for a water taxi. For example, the InterContinental Le Moana Bora Bora Resort charges $70 per person for water-based transportation from the airport to the hotel. 

There are ways, however, to pay a fraction of that price if your hotel, like the InterContinental Le Moana Bora Bora, is located on Bora Bora’s main island. Instead of booking the resort’s water taxi, we took the free Air Tahiti Bora Bora Navette to the main island’s town of Vaitape, and then hailed a waiting taxi to take us on a 12-minute ride to the resort. That only cost us $24 total, instead of $140!

4. The Local Currency Is The Pacific Franc

I quote transportation costs in dollars above, but the local currency is the Pacific franc. I’ve also seen it called the Central Pacific Franc or French Pacific Franc. It’s abbreviated CFP, but its international abbreviation is XFP, so you may see it referenced a number of ways. 

Before our trip, we ordered a couple hundred dollars worth of CFPs from our hometown bank so we’d have some available to us immediately once we landed in French Polynesia. But you can also withdraw local money from an ATM (I saw them regularly at grocery stores) or at the Tahiti airport on arrival. Your hotel’s front desk may not offer the best rate to exchange money, so I’d only do that in a pinch.

Credit cards are accepted regularly at restaurants, grocery stores, local tour companies, and of course hotels. You may find that souvenir stores and grocery shops accept U.S. dollars, but the exchange rate offered probably won’t be great. I’d try to use a credit card as often as possible (make sure yours doesn’t charge foreign transaction fees) and the local CFP currency for cash transactions like taxi rides.

5. Eating And Drinking On Bora Bora Is Expensive, But There Are Ways To Cut Costs

It’s not unusual to see $15 cocktails, $20 appetizers, and $40 entrees on hotel restaurant menus on Bora Bora. To save money, consider these tips:

Pack Your Own Snacks

We loaded our luggage with protein bars, oatmeal packets, and beef jerky to help tide us over between meals, especially on days when we’d just eat a huge hotel buffet breakfast then not sit down for food again until happy hour. The instant coffee I brought helped me save at the hotels that didn’t offer free coffee in our hotel rooms.

Swing By A Local Grocery Store

This is easiest to do if you’re staying on Bora Bora’s main island; if your hotel is on a remote motu, you may need to take a taxi to the local store, if there’s even one nearby. We were able to walk from the Intercontinental Le Moana Bora Bora to a local store for good French wine, super cheap baguettes, and reasonably priced cheese and cold cuts for an easy and fun picnic meal to enjoy on the deck of our overwater bungalow.

Take Advantage Of Hotel 2-For-1 Happy Hours

All the resorts we stayed at in French Polynesia (a total of four on three islands) offered buy-one-get-one-free drink specials in the hour or 2 before sunset.

Eat At Local Restaurants 

This may not afford you great savings, as some of the well-known Bora Bora restaurants, like Bloody Mary’s, may cost you as much as a hotel meal, plus you’ll need to pay for a taxi to get there and back. But if you can walk to an eatery near your resort, consider giving it a whirl to save a few bucks and support a local business. 

6. Make Sure You Pack All Of Your Needed Toiletries

Just as food and drink are expensive on Bora Bora (except for those fabulous 62-cent loafs of baguette-style bread!), other consumer items are, too. 

My husband and I made a rookie mistake of not bringing enough sunscreen with us. Toward the end of our trip, we had to supplement with a bottle purchased from a local market — which wasn’t much cheaper than what was offered at the hotel gift shop.

We paid $24 for a 6.8-ounce bottle of sunblock. Ouch! That said, a painful sunburn would have hurt even more — better safe than sorry.

7. Bora Bora Has A Wet And Dry Season

According to the Islands of Tahiti tourism website, Bora Bora has a wet season and a dry season. The most popular time for visitors is from May to October, the islands’ dry season. You can expect mostly sunny and mild weather during this time.

The wet season runs from November to April. Fewer tourists visit during this time, as it’s not unusual to encounter rain — including heavy downpours — regularly. Temperatures are hotter and humid during this time, as well.

My husband and I visited in the first 2 weeks of November, and we lucked out during this transition time between the dry and wet seasons. For the bulk of our trip to French Polynesia, we enjoyed incredibly sunny days with bright skies and warm temperatures — about 80 degrees Fahrenheit. We only experienced one afternoon and a full day of steady, pouring rain that impacted our outdoor activities.

8. English Is Widely Spoken, But Consider Learning A Few Tahitian Words

All front-facing hotel employees we encountered spoke fluent English. We were also able to converse easily with the local folks we came in contact with at airports, ferry terminals, grocery stores, and local restaurants. 

That said, we regularly heard a couple of Tahitian phrases that became cemented in our vocabulary within just a few days of arrival in French Polynesia.

First, Ia Orana (yo-rah-nah), meaning “hello,” and every single employee we passed while walking on hotel grounds would greet us this way in a sing-song voice. Grocery store and cafe employees would do the same as we entered their establishments. With a smile, we happily repeated “Ia Orana” back to anyone we encountered.

We also mastered Maururu (mah-roo-roo), which means “thank you.” French Polynesians are exceedingly polite, and we were happy to follow suit, thanking everyone for everything as we made our way through our day on Bora Bora — from restaurant servers to shop clerks to the fellow who lent us kayaks at hotel activity palapas.

The friendly residents of Bora Bora and the other French Polynesia islands we visited contributed greatly to our enjoyment of our vacation in this beautiful place. Using a bit of their native language was the least we could do to acknowledge their hospitality that made us feel so welcomed to their slice of paradise.

For more Bora Bora inspiration, consider Kara’s take on why you must stay in this Bora Bora overwater bungalow once in your lifetime.

For more destinations like Bora Bora, check out these recent articles:

• My 11 Favorite Beaches To Visit In The World
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Land of aquamarine lagoons, lush green mountains, brightly colored fish, warm breezes, sublime sunsets, and the scent of tropical flowers around every corner, French Polynesia is a feast for the senses. 

Add in upscale, luxury accommodations — namely the overwater bungalows for which the islands are famous — and you’ve got a once-in-a-lifetime vacation destination that tops many travelers’ bucket lists.

My husband and I traveled to this dreamy locale at the end of 2021 and deemed it our best vacation ever. We spent 12 romantic and relaxing days on the islands of Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora — including two incredible nights at a remarkable resort I’d suggest everyone visit at least once in their lifetime.

Yep, it was that good.

This Posh Bora Bora Resort Is Exclusive And Remote

Arrival at the InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa is by boat — the property is located on a motu (islet) and only accessible via water. It sets the tone for an exclusive experience from the get-go.

When we arrived at the waterfront property and the hotel’s front-desk clerk said enthusiastically with a smile, “Ohhhhhh, you’ve been upgraded to a Pool Overwater Bungalow,” we knew we were in for a special treat.

She drove us in a golf cart directly to our accommodations, and upon entry to bungalow #200, my jaw dropped and I blurted out, “Are you kidding me?”

The InterContinental’s Pool Overwater Bungalow Is Incredibly Roomy 

For just the two of us, we had 700 square feet of interior living space in which to spread out. Vaulted ceilings and giant picture windows in the freestanding, thatched-roof building added to the roominess.  

I was immediately taken by the king-size bed in front of a floor-to-ceiling window allowing for direct views of the pristine lagoon outside. What a way to wake up in the morning!

And if the double sinks and walk-in shower in the bathroom weren’t enough, a claw-foot tub sat right in front of another gigantic window with similar scenic views. 

In the expansive living room, we could kick back and sip sparkling wine (a lovely anniversary gift from the hotel), while gazing at the fish swimming below our bungalow via the glass coffee table and the clear “window” to the water below that was cut into the floor.

With all of the glass windows, we felt like we were a part of the natural scene outside. The eye-catching aqua water, blue sky, and green mountains were a perfect complement to the natural beige and brown tones found inside — with bright pops of color found in orange, yellow, and peach throw pillows.

The Best Part Of Our Overwater Bungalow Was The Plunge Pool

However, my husband and I didn’t spend too much time lounging inside — as lovely as it was, with its contemporary Polynesian decor and comfortable furniture. We much preferred to breathe in the tropical air outdoors while seated in sun loungers on our huge 624-square-foot terrace perched above the crystal-clear water. 

We’d while away time alternating between reading our paperbacks and keeping an eye out for the stingrays and eagle rays that effortlessly glided around the shallow depths. We’d watch other guests kayaking around the bungalows in the calm water. And with direct access to the lagoon from our private deck, we’d hop in to snorkel amid a variety of fish whenever we wanted. 

When we didn’t feel like swimming in the lagoon, we’d simply jump in our very own 172-square-foot plunge pool. As much as we might like lounging at a communal resort pool, there’s something so decadent about having your very own soaking area for relaxing just steps from our bedroom. It was the ultimate in privacy — we felt like celebrities, for sure!

Dining At The InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa

Though we appreciated the privacy of our Pool Overwater Bungalow, we did want to enjoy the dining options and other amenities of the upscale resort. With only two nights on the property, we made the most of dining options without breaking the bank. We indulged at a stellar breakfast buffet in the late mornings, which served as brunch for us, so we didn’t eat again until the late afternoon or early evening. 

The breakfast spread included everything you’d expect — made-to-order omelets, ham and bacon, pancakes and waffles — as well as amazing treats like savory cheeses, an array of freshly baked breads and pastries, individually portioned gourmet smoothies, and plenty of fresh tropical fruit. Like I said, it was easy to fuel up for the day with so many options. 

Otherwise, we ate with our feet in the sand at the appropriately named Sands restaurant. In the evenings at this beachfront spot, flickering torches set the tone for romance. I must admit, we’d eaten so much traditional (and good!) seafood in the week earlier on our South Pacific vacation, that we craved red meat toward the end of our trip. French red wine accompanied my husband’s perfectly cooked cheeseburger and my spaghetti with bolognese sauce. 

The other evening, we spent it happily nibbling on appetizers and drinking discounted 2-for-1 happy hour cocktails while listening to local music for nearly 2 hours at the upbeat and modern Bubbles bar.

Pampering At The Spa With Phenomenal Water Features

Besides its bucolic surroundings, top-notch service, and spacious accommodations, a major draw of the InterContinental Bora Bora Resort is its Deep Ocean Spa. This is an amenity-filled spa retreat where you definitely want to allow for plenty of time to enjoy all of the relaxing water features (thalassotherapy) — from the steam room and rainshower experiences to the cold plunge pool and private outdoor hot tubs.

I hopped around like a kid in a candy store, trying as many of the indoor-outdoor experiences I could fit into the hour before my spa treatment. (I recommend spending a whole half day here if you can.) 

My favorite was the Deep Chiller Walk: an oblong, waist-deep pool outfitted with intensely pulsating jets designed to soothe tired legs. I’d just walk up and down the below-ground tub (which wasn’t as cold as its “Chiller” name would imply) and stop at the jets positioned at different heights to have the pulsing seawater relax my calves and thighs. Amazing!

There’s also a lovely relaxation area called the Tea Room where you can enjoy hot and cold beverages, as well as other spots with lounge chairs for repose before it’s time for your appointment.

My 90-minute Bora Bora Bliss Massage took place in a glass-bottomed overwater bungalow. It began with a seated footbath, and then I transferred to a massage table; when face-down, I could gaze at the clear lagoon water below me. This is a nifty feature, but honestly, I always close my eyes during treatments for full relaxation, so I didn’t take the time to look at much!

Other Amenities And Activities At The InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa

As is typical at upscale resorts on Bora Bora, guests at the InterContinental can enjoy complimentary use of snorkel gear, stand-up paddle boards, and kayaks. We’d brought our own snorkel gear, but we did take out the SUPs and kayaks one afternoon. It was fun to paddle around the calm water and admire looming Mount Otemanu, the most prominent land feature in the area. 

On the property, there’s also a fitness center, gift shop, tennis courts, and activities desk where you can book local tours. A zero-entry infinity pool is a popular place for guests to gather, as is the sandy beach area with umbrellas and lounge chairs. The resort staff regularly holds cultural demonstrations. 

While I believe that snorkeling amid the colorful tropical fish is the best way to get up close and personal with the awesome marine life of French Polynesia, guests can check out the creatures that swarm around coral nurseries without getting wet. A protected “lagoonarium” is a marine habitat that allows the fish to feed and shelter among the introduced coral — and you can spot them from a walkway over the water.

How To Get A Great Deal At The InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa

If I’ve got you convinced that a vacation featuring a stay at the InterContinental Bora Bora Resort needs to be in your future, but you’re concerned about the cost, I’ll let you in on a secret: I didn’t pay full price for our stay in the extraordinary Pool Overwater Bungalow!

Instead, I joined the InterContinental Ambassador Program for $200 before I booked our stay on Bora Bora. With the membership, I got one of our two nights at the resort totally free, but I also scored an upgrade of four room categories.

That’s because one of the perks of membership is a free weekend hotel night anywhere in the world with InterContinental Hotels & Resorts (just book your trip so it falls on a Friday and Saturday), and a guaranteed room upgrade for every stay.

We booked the lowest room category (Emerald Bungalow) expecting to get bumped up to the Sapphire Bungalow category. But the hotel can, at its discretion, upgrade multiple room categories. Maybe there were no lesser-category rooms available. Maybe the room manager was feeling generous. Who knows! We just very much appreciated our rock-star status with our own pool in our Pool Overwater Bungalow.

Our extra-special digs in a beautiful tropical locale were the perfect culmination to a dream trip in the South Pacific.

For more on exclusive, luxury resorts, check out our recent coverage:

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If you haven’t heard of Lord Howe, you’re not alone. It’s one of Australia’s best-kept secrets. Lord Howe Island, a remnant of a now extinct volcano, dating back 7 million years, has been eroded to one-40th of its original size. Now 7 miles long and less than 1.5 miles wide, this tiny, idyllic boomerang-shaped sliver of land is just 430 miles northeast of Sydney. The island wraps around a turquoise lagoon and is rimmed by the world’s southernmost coral reef. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its spectacular volcanic geography, rare endemic fauna, and native plant species found nowhere else on earth, this is a piece of paradise. British natural historian Sir David Attenborough described the island as “so extraordinary it is almost unbelievable… few islands, surely, can be so accessible, so remarkable, yet so unspoilt.” This is a spectacularly beautiful island with magical mountains, crystal-clear waters, and wonderful beaches, and with a maximum of 400 guests allowed on the island at any one time, it’s easy to find your own secluded piece of this paradise.

So what does one do, and where does one start when exploring this hidden gem of the Pacific Ocean? Here are my suggestions for the top things to do on a visit to Lord Howe Island.

1. Scuba Dive

Surrounded by Marine Park, Lord Howe Island’s marine life is pristine and plentiful, and crystal clear waters attract divers from around the world, who come to explore some of the best dive sites on the planet. The coral reefs at Lord Howe Island are the most southerly, and among the most spectacular, in the world.

The island is located at the crossroads of five major ocean currents, including the warm East Australian Current, which runs down from the Great Barrier Reef and mingles with Lord Howe’s cooler waters. This mixture creates a rich and unusual collection of critters and corals that are not normally found rubbing shoulders, like temperate tuna and salmon, alongside tropical angelfish, plus 500 other species of fish and 90 types of coral. Lord Howe’s underwater topography of trenches, caves, and volcanic drop-offs adds to the awe-inspiring diving experience at the island.

There are over 100 dive sites, from “resort dives” in shallow water from the beach to more adventurous locations such as the island’s most spectacular dive site, under the vertical rock spire of Balls Pyramid — the world’s tallest sea stack, located 16 miles south of the island. Advanced divers (certification required) can expect to see massive schools of Violet Sweep, Amberjack, Kingfish, Silver Drummer, Rainbow Runners, Trevally, and occasionally Marlin, Dolphins, and Wahoo. Try Pro Dive if you are keen to dive on your visit. 

2. Snorkel 

Lord Howe Island sits on the southernmost part of the Great Barrier Reef, so there is some exceptional snorkeling to be done, and snorkeling amongst a myriad of colorful fish is the norm. An extensive barrier coral reef protects a broad sheltered lagoon and sandy beach on the western side of the island, while fringing coral reefs lie immediately offshore of the beaches on the eastern side. Lord Howe is the only place in Australia where such a diversity of fish, coral, algae, and associated creatures can be seen while snorkeling just a few meters from the beach.

One of my best memories of Lord Howe Island is wading into the crystal clear water at Ned’s Beach with my then very young children. We were immediately surrounded by a feeding frenzy of fish. Nowadays you can pay $1 for some fish pellets, but on that particular trip it was Easter, and we were armed with some rather stale Hot Cross Buns, which seemed to be very popular with the fish.

Snorkeling is also wonderful at Ned’s Beach, where you can swim amongst these thousands of fish once you’re done feeding them. Snorkeling at Old Settlement Beach can be rewarding, as you’ll often find yourself in the company of magnificent green turtles. The calm waters of the lagoon are ideal for kids and beginners alike, as here you can paddle at the edge or snorkel above colorful corals just feet from the shore. Tour operators like Reef and Beyond offer guided snorkel tours for small groups to a number of areas where rare and unusual species are reliably seen. You can also rent snorkeling gear from the dive shops or at Ned’s Beach where there are masks, fins, and snorkels to use for the cost of your contribution to the so-called honesty box.

3. Birdwatch

Lord Howe Island is one of Australia’s premier bird-watching destinations. Almost 170 species of sea and land birds live on or visit the island, and hundreds of thousands nest here each year. You can watch red-tailed tropicbirds performing their acrobatic, airborne courting rituals from the Malabar cliffs. At dusk, you can witness thousands of flesh-footed shearwaters (known locally as Muttonbirds) returning from their daily foraging at sea. Walk the Little Island track between March and November and view the spectacular aerial courtship displays of one of the world’s rarest birds, the Providence Petrel. Masked Boobies can be seen nesting along the sea cliffs at Muttonbird Point all year round, and if you’re lucky you’ll see the endemic Lord Howe Island woodhen, a small, endemic, flightless bird, saved from extinction by local conservation efforts. 

Local guides like Lord Howe Nature Tours can show you the best locations and provide information on different species. Whether you’re a seasoned birdwatcher or a novice with a passing interest, it would be nearly impossible to leave this island without coming across some of the unique bird species — so you might want to pack your binoculars!

4. Hike

Some of the world’s best hikes and day walks are right here on Lord Howe Island, with diverse tracks so there’s something for everyone.

Mt Gower: You’ll need a fair degree of fitness and no fear of heights to conquer this one, but if you have the stamina, I’d highly recommend doing the eight-hour return hike to the top of Mt Gower (you will need a guide for this). Located at the southern end of the island this 2,870-foot mountain contains one of the tallest sea cliffs in Australia and is covered with cloud forest and rainforest. It’s a steep and exposed track and definitely not for the faint-hearted — get ready for cliffs, ledges, ropes, and dizzying sheer drops, but also plenty of wildlife and spectacular views. This hike is rated one of Australia’s best day walks. Jack Shick, a fifth-generation islander and third-generation mountain guide with Sea to Summit Tours can take you up Mt Gower.

My other favorite hikes include one from Ned’s Beach to Malabar Hill, a relatively short hike (25 minutes to get to the top) but it offers incredible views and is great for sunrise or sunset. Another great hike is up to Goat House Cave. It’s a short hike, but you will be relying on ropes, so not for the faint-hearted. Last but not least, hike to Kim’s Lookout for stunning views. Several bird species call this area their home, and it is rather spectacular to see them flying overhead.

5. Bike

Lord Howe offers great cycling, and with the island’s compact size and eight miles of scenic roads and tracks, this is an excellent way to explore. Roads and tracks wind around the island through lush rainforest and, with a speed limit set at 15 miles per hour, cyclists rule the roads and pedal power is the favored mode of transport. The island lends itself to discovery on two wheels, with visitors and locals alike using bikes to tour the island and reach the beaches, shops, and restaurants. Bikes can be rented at reasonable rates on the island, with some lodges and guest houses providing guests with bikes for their stays. Note that helmets are required at all times.

6. Kayaking

Kayaks are a great way to explore the sheltered water of Lord Howe Island’s 3.5-mile-long lagoon. You can kayak solo or with family and friends (double and single kayaks are available for rent. I’d suggest circumnavigating Rabbit Island, or taking a picnic lunch and exploring the beaches of North Bay and Old Settlement Beach.

7. Get To Know The Locals

With only about 350 residents, and a maximum of 400 tourists allowed at any one time, there’s only ever a maximum of 800 people on the island, so Lord Howe maintains a small-town feel. Everyone knows everyone else, and their business, and it’s impossible to walk down the street without receiving greetings from everyone that passes. The friendliness of the small community means that Lord Howe is virtually crime-free, there are no locks on doors, and even the bar fridge at the Pinetrees Lodge Boat Shed, a great place for a sunset drink, operates on an honesty system.

8. Fishing

There are dozens of hot spots for hooking monster pelagics, such as Lord Howe Kingfish, Yellowfin Tuna, and Wahoo, as well as several species unique to the seas around the island. There is a virtually untouched game fishery, featuring Black, Blue, and Striped Marlin, half an hour from the island. A variety of dedicated charter fishing boats operate from the island, with half, full-day, and private charter tours on offer. All boats provide quality fishing tackle suited to Lord Howe’s conditions.

9. Discover The Island’s Endemic Stick Bug

More than 1,600 terrestrial insect species have been recorded on Lord Howe, of which approximately 60 percent are found nowhere else in the world. One of the most spectacular insects is the Lord Howe Island Phasmid, a large stick insect — once thought to be extinct, but rediscovered in recent years on Balls Pyramid. These bugs are quite large and are sometimes called land lobsters.

10. Learn About The Island’s History

The island may be small, but it has a fascinating history, and there’s a small but intriguing Lord Howe Island Museum covering local heritage, history, shipwrecks, and nature. The curator, Ian Hutton, is both resident naturalist and author of 10 books on the island, including A Guide to World Heritage – Lord Howe Island.

There’s plenty more to see and do, from scouting for sea turtles to a round of golf, a glass-bottom boat tour, sampling local gin infused with wild lemon and hibiscus, or stargazing in a night sky that’s so dark that the stars seem to shine much brighter than just about anywhere else in the world. One of the best things about it being such a tiny island is that you can witness both sunrise and sunset!

I’ve visited Lord Howe Island several times over the years, starting when I was a young child and most recently with my own children and their grandparents (my parents). I can happily say that the island has changed very little in the intervening years. It remains charmingly retro, uncrowded, undeveloped, and strongly community oriented and is even more environmentally pristine than it was 40 years ago.

Pro Tip: A trip to Lord Howe Island will give you a digital detox. With no mobile phone coverage and limited Wi-Fi, you can completely escape from the stresses of work and life.

The beginning of the pandemic found me in the north of New Zealand, in a small town, with a choice to make; fly back to New York City, then the epicenter of the virus, or, stay, be locked down, and have no idea when I could get out again. I chose the latter, thinking it would be for a few months. Almost 2 years later, I have a lot about New Zealand to be thankful for.

I Had A Safe Refuge From COVID Most Of My Time

I chose to ride out the pandemic in the town of Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands because I thought it would be less touristy and less expensive than other parts of New Zealand. I booked an Airbnb for a week. Once I made the choice to stay, I had to find alternate accommodation. I went for a walk and found a sculpture garden. Upon entering, I read a sign with a man’s photo explaining what to expect inside. I walked in, and after a few steps, saw the man whose photo was at the entrance. I said, “Didn’t I just see your photo?” He replied, “Yes! Are you by chance looking for long-term accommodation?” And that’s how I ended up staying at the beautiful Wharepuke Accommodation, Restaurant, Garden and Art. I felt not only safe but also, in good company. I had wonderful American neighbors who were also stuck. 

Once we came out of the first lockdown, New Zealand enjoyed over a year of being COVID-free. While the rest of the world endured constant lockdowns, mask-wearing, and huge COVID counts, I wandered around the south and north islands of this beautiful country. Even though, as a nomad, I found it hard to be in one country for so long, it was also refreshing to be able to travel freely. When I was in Kerikeri, I also enjoyed Latin Fit dance classes and remarked we were likely the only country in the world where we could not only hug but do it while we were sweating.

Nature Became My Protector

As a native New Yorker, I’m accustomed to having to walk to Central Park to get to a patch of grass from which I can still see tall buildings, and never lose my connection to a big city. In New Zealand, it’s impossible to avoid nature. Even in Auckland, there are parks and forests that make you feel like you’re in the wild.

During our first lockdown, up in Kerikeri, I was grateful for 5 acres of paths through lush nature, normally open to the public, reserved just for us. Straying into nearby walks, I found a giant, knotted tree I would frequently hug because it had faces that reminded me of wise old women I wanted to connect with. This was a wonderful way to endure the strange situation in the world today.

I Feel Part Of A Team

While being alone and far from home during lockdown was hard, Jacinda Ardern constantly reminded us that we’re part of a team of 5 million, and we must all have compassion for one another. The majority of New Zealanders tend to follow rules, and because they so diligently wore masks and observed social distancing, the mutual respect made it easier to also follow the rules. Even now, in Auckland, I find that most people wear a mask, and observe social distancing. 

I Learned That Life Can Be Simpler

As an American, it took me a while, but I’ve learned to appreciate how much simpler life is in New Zealand. Work-life balance is a thing, that’s why most coffee shops shut by 3 p.m. People love helping each other here. No matter what the problem, there will probably be someone that will offer to see you through it.

I Found Most People Incredibly Kind

I know it’s a big judgment, but pretty much everyone I met in New Zealand has been not only wonderful but bend-over-backward helpful. So many people have taken me in, or offered to, over my 2 years here. 

My very first night in New Zealand, I had dinner out and met a woman at the table next to mine. She offered me a place to stay for a week. When I visited Kerikeri after traveling last summer, several friends took me in, rent-free, and one even lent me her car for almost a month. Now in lockdown in Auckland, the friends I’m staying with have put up with me for over 2 months. I am incredibly grateful for all the kindness I have received from so many different people. I’ve found most Kiwis have a tendency to want to help you out. It’s beautiful.

I Learned About Waste And The Environment

I won’t pretend everything is perfect, but New Zealand has taught me how wasteful I’ve been in my life, and how to stop the bad habit. Permaculture isn’t easy to do in a New York City apartment. In New Zealand, most homes have at least a small garden. The ones that don’t use window boxes to grow herbs. What I learned here has forever changed me. I now make a point to travel with a sustainable cup so I don’t have to waste paper for a smoothie or a cup of coffee. I think about food shopping as ingredients to go with what’s already in the house, as opposed to buying an entirely new meal and letting other foods go to waste. 

I’ve Experienced A Lot Of Humility

Coming from a place where celebrities are the focus of our attention, it’s been wondrous to live in a country where fame isn’t a thing. I saw a movie here I loved, James & Isey, and reached out to the star on Facebook just to tell him how much I enjoyed his movie. He not only answered me but took me out for a cup of coffee! I also interviewed Chris Booth. For me, he’s a world-renowned sculptor. In real life, he’s just a wonderful, humble man, more concerned about his work, the environment, and how we treat people than his reputation. I’ve even been surprised that when I called an editor at The New Zealand Herald about an article I pitched, she picked up the phone and spoke with me. This is a very special country.

I only expected to be in New Zealand for 3 weeks. Instead, I’ve created a life in a small country that’s got a huge heart, beautiful people, and nurturing landscape I’ll remember the rest of my life. Though it was difficult to decide to stay here long term, I’m really pleased with my choice.

Ding, ding! All aboard! Callout for passengers wanting to explore Australia’s iconic scenery riding the rails back in time. 

When you search for Australian train journeys online, Google always throws up the luxury Ghan and the Indian Pacific.

I’ve taken these iconic trips and shared my experiences on TravelAwaits. But these big-ticket items shouldn’t eclipse Australia’s other historic rail trips. The ones international tourists miss out on because they never hear about them. So here they are! 

1. Aurora Australis By Vintage Rail Journeys, Sydney, NSW 

Not all travelers want train journeys stretching to the far side of the continent. An alternative is Vintage Rail Journeys that leaves and returns to Sydney’s Central Station via roughly circular routes. 

The Aurora Australis moves only during daylight hours. After dark, the train stables so guests can sleep onboard without jolts in the night. 

The company offers various tours. The Golden West Rail Tour to the Blue Mountains, the Hunter Valley Wine Region, and the regional city of Dubbo. Board the Riverboat Postman visit Emeri De Bortoli’s Private Garden; and experience an Aussie bush dance in Kandos. The Riverina Tour visits Australia’s food bowl, with its fresh produce, incredible wines, and spectacular scenery. The North Coast Tour coasts its way to Byron Bay before crossing the border to Brisbane in Queensland. 

The train is called Aurora Australis, but the carriages are from the Southern Aurora, a first-class overnight sleeper service between Sydney and Melbourne from 1962 until 1986. The 1960s vintage cabins were built in 1950s American style and fitted with original 1930s Art Deco-style light fixtures.

In 2017, retirees Simon Mitchell and Danielle Smith acquired 16 of these classic carriages and have painstakingly restored nine of them to date for their business. The trips aren’t purely commercial, with part of the proceeds going to Transport Heritage NSW.

Pro Tip: The brochure is here. Trains accommodate 156 guests but are limited to 12 departures per year. Tours sell out quickly.

2. Puffing Billy, Melbourne, Victoria

Puffing Billy is a century-old steam train chugging through the fern gullies and forests of the Dandenong Ranges. Once serving the local farming community, today this is a much-loved tourist railway, thanks to the efforts of hundreds of volunteers. 

Seating is in open-sided carriages. The views are incredible, and the excitement is palpable as Puffing Billy crosses over trestle bridges, brushes past towering ferns, billows smoke, and toots his whistle. Everyone who sees him waves. 

Stops include walking tracks in the area’s temperate rainforest. Picnic, or visit one of the English or German-style tea shops the area is famous for. 

Puffing Billy Railway was one of four low-cost 2 feet, 6-inch gauge lines constructed in Victoria in the early 1900s to open up remote areas. The locomotives have cowcatchers like the steam locos of early America. Locomotives, rolling stock, buildings, fencing, signs, and even staff clothing represent the Victorian Railways as it operated between 1900–1930. 

Pro Tip: Puffing Billy is in the Dandenong Ranges, an hour east of Melbourne. The train runs every day except Christmas day.

3. Walhalla Goldfields Railway, Walhalla, Victoria 

Walhalla is a 2-hour drive east of Melbourne. During the 1860s, this was one of Australia’s richest towns and home to thousands of miners. Today, tourists outnumber the clutch of residents. Tourists visit the Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine or wander the Victorian-era town with its band rotunda, Mechanics Institute, and hillside cemetery so steep it’s rumored some of the 1,100 corpses were buried standing up. 

The Walhalla Goldfields Railways is part of this heritage experience. The route traverses six trestle bridges following Swingler Creek cascading below. The track is amazingly steep, but the little diesel locomotive manages with ease. The return trip takes an hour.

Walhalla Goldfields Railway opened on 3 May 1910. Walhalla’s last major gold mine closed the following year. A mass exodus of the population saw miners using the railway to move their wooden cottages. 

Bush grew over the abandoned track. In 1993, a group of enthusiasts began rebuilding the most spectacular section of the line. 

Pro Tip: For departure times, follow its Facebook. For accommodations in Walhalla, click here. 

4. Gulflander, Normanton, Queensland 

Much loved by train buffs, the Gulflander is an experience of the shake, rattle, and roll variety. Reached by a 10-hour bus trip or a short flight from Cairns, passengers travel through frontier country from Normanton, near the Gulf of Carpentaria, to the inland town of Croydon.

The train advertises itself as going from “nowhere to nowhere” as there are no connections with the rest of Queensland’s rail system. 

The five-hour journey takes in coolabah trees, kangaroos, huge cattle stations, wooded savannah, grassland, and creek crossings with alarming floodwater markers. The Guflander stops to drop off mail and waits patiently for cattle herds to cross the track. 

There are two carriages, and the railmotor runs on a narrow-gauge, 3-foot 6-inch track on the original sleepers laid between 1888 and 1891. This ingenious steel sleeper system allows floodwaters to flow gently over the line to prevent flood damage during the wet season. 

The impressive Normanton station has a small museum set up from the 1930s. Excellent commentary onboard covers the area’s pioneering history — no meals beyond a stop at a siding for a cup of tea and a muffin. Latch windows rather than air-conditioning. 

Pro Tip: The Guflander can be combined with a trip on the Savannahlander. 

5. The Savannahlander, Cairns, Queensland 

The Savannahlander is a 1960s classic railmotor. The first part of the journey from Cairns uses the famous Kuranda Scenic Railway track, winding through the rainforest past waterfalls before moving onto the Gulf Savannah region — “The Outback.” The 4-day itinerary includes excursions to the Chillagoe Caves, Cobbold Gorge, and the Undara Lava Tubes. The endpoint is the old gold mining town of Forsayth. 

The Savannallander has an art deco muzzle and plain round lines reminiscent of a silver bullet. The carriage interior offers first-class period glamour: dark polished wood, green leather seats, windows that open casement-style, and antique-style baggage racks. Great views through the huge windows. True to the period, there is no air-conditioning. 

This authentic outback experience is a far cry from a formal tour. There’s no set seating, and the motorail picks up locals who may travel to a couple of stations. There are two carriages and no divide between the driver and passengers. He sits in the front at the controls but within chatting distance. Passengers can take turns riding shotgun next to him.

The drivers are characters and fantastic storytellers. If you want to know what you are getting yourself in for, click here. The late Steve Irwin comes to mind as they also point out unique wildlife and might stop the train, leap off and wrestle/rescue a pig or a snake. To gain some idea of the wildlife, meet the Olive python.

Pro Tip: The prices are reasonable given the trip includes most meals and accommodation in classic outback hotels. 

6. West Coast Wilderness Railway, Queenstown, Tasmania 

West Coast Wilderness Railway is a reconstruction of the Mount Lyell Mining and Railway Company built in the late 19th century to cart ore from Queenstown to the coast at Strahan.

This unique railway journey through ancient rainforest offers gold panning, rainforest walks, and one of the southern hemisphere’s steepest tracks. Guides tell stories of the hardships of the railway’s construction.

The tourist railway has garnered multiple awards, including Tasmania’s Best Tourist Attraction and an Engineering Heritage International Marker for its global engineering significance. While not cheap, the Wilderness Package provides guests with train balcony access, sparkling wine, and a scrumptious and continuous array of snacks and lunch. The less expensive carriages give you the same scenery. Tourists often claim this rail trip is one of the highlights of their trip to Tasmania. 

7. Pichi Richi, Quorn, South Australia 

The Flinders Ranges in South Australia formed some 800 million years ago and offers the outback spectacle of jagged peaks and rocky gorges. 

Experience this timeless beauty aboard the Pichi Richi Railway, a historic railway line operating as a working museum since 1973.

There are full or half-day trips over the last operating section of the “Old Ghan” railway line, the 1800s railway, named after the Afghan camel train drivers (Ghan for short) who opened up the outback. The luxury tourist train that runs from Adelaide to Darwin also uses the name.

The Pichi Richi Railway offers The Afghan Express: A steam-hauled train using timber-bodied carriages built in the late 1920s from the original Ghan. Or the Pichi Richi Explorer: A steam train using South Australian railways carriages, some dating from the 19th century. 

Train enthusiasts relish a ride on the Coffee Pot, an ornate Edwardian-era steam railcar — the last operating example of its type worldwide. This grand old lady only ventures out five times a year to transport 22 (adults only) to a 3-course silver service luncheon at Woolshed Flat. Book this popular service well in advance.

Pro Tip: Pichi Richi Railway operates to this timetable.

8. The Cockle Train, Goolwa, South Australia

The Cockle Train is a heritage railway running from Goolwa to Victor Harbor in South Australia. The name comes from the early days of settlement when locals would take a horse-drawn train to Goolwa to collect cockles. They would do the “cockle shuffle,” swishing their feet in the sand to bring the small mollusks to the surface. 

Today the Cockle Train is a half-hour heritage railway journey from the Goolwa Station, in the historic Wharf Precinct alongside the River Murray. It reaches the Encounter Bay coast, where the local National Trust operates the station. Then climbs to the top of the cliffs, where passengers experience some of the most picturesque coastal scenery on the Fleurieu Peninsula. 

Unlike many tourist railways, the Cockle Train mostly uses diesel locomotives pulling a fleet of heritage Redhen and Brill railcars. When the train reaches Victor Harbor, the locomotive is detached and turned on an electric turntable for the return journey.

Pro Tip: Collect cockles with the locals or try them in Goolwa prepared by local chefs.

If you plan to come to New Zealand, you already know it’s mile after mile of stunning scenery. As a smaller island nation — there are just over five million people living in the entire country — transportation is not as industrialized as you’ll find in some larger countries. There are only three main train lines. You can travel between Auckland and Wellington on the north island. On the south island, you can travel north and south between Picton (where you catch the ferry to or from the north island) and Christchurch, and east to west between Christchurch and Greymouth. 

One of the highlights of my time here was my ride on the TranzAlpine from Christchurch to Greymouth. If you can fit this into your itinerary, I highly recommend it as a must-do activity.

If you’re traveling into New Zealand from an international destination, it will be easier for you to fly into Christchurch and board the train there. The airport in Greymouth is domestic, so you can’t fly directly there, making it easier to travel east to west. Here are some of the reasons I recommend this train journey if you come to New Zealand. It’s an experience you won’t forget or regret.

A Perfect Introduction To New Zealand Landscape

So much of New Zealand is nature in every direction; from mountain ranges to bodies of water, and various plants and trees that combine to create majestic beauty. This train ride is the perfect way to immerse yourself in all the natural wonders of New Zealand in one trip. If you’re short on time, it’s the perfect overview of why everyone says this country is so beautiful. 

I’ve been awed at how such a small country has so much diversity between its east and west coasts. This train takes you through valleys, mountains, and the middle of nowhere. You’ll journey from a modern city into the depths of natural wonders without a hint of humans living anywhere nearby. You’ll see some of the most stunning views you can imagine. Trust me, your jaw will hang open most of the ride. You’ll want to keep your camera out the whole time.

Combining Beauty With Knowledge 

Every seat inside the train has its own headset. If you choose to plug it in and listen, you’ll be treated to an audio tour with a wealth of information along the way. You’ll learn that some of the plants and trees you see are unique to one side of the south island. It’s as much a lesson in fauna and flora as it is about New Zealand facts. 

I’ve taken this and the Picton line three times now, and make sure to use my headset for at least part of the journey. When you listen to the audio guide, it makes the experience three-dimensional. Historical anecdotes bring you through time while you’re traveling through space and seeing everything with curious eyes.

Focus On Views That Will Leave You Spellbound

This is perhaps the main reason to take this trip. If you drive, you have to focus on the road. One irony in New Zealand is drivers are not patient! Don’t plan on being able to drive slowly and take in all the landscape and jump out for photos. Instead, take the train. You can stare out the window the entire time. What awaits you are mountains, gorges, rivers, and spectacular trees and land. 

The entire ride you’ll repeatedly lose your breath gasping at the views. It seems impossible that there can be so much beauty in a relatively short train ride. Prepare yourself — if you fall asleep you’ll miss some of the best views in New Zealand. Seriously, try not to fall asleep because even a cat nap means missing out on something you might never see again.

Outdoor Open-Air Views

Each train car has such high glass windows, you won’t miss a thing if you stay in your seat the whole time. If that’s not enough encouragement, there’s one more bonus and it’s worth the ride just for this — there’s an open-air car on every train. If you want the best photos, this is where to be.

Frankly, there’s no place more stunning to stand, even with other people around, than in the open-air car. It’s magical to see the scenery passing by with the wind wrapping itself around you, creating a sensory experience that truly brings the scene to life. Before New Zealand, I’d never experienced train travel like this, and it’s the 51st country I’ve visited in my life.

Pro tip: If the weather is beautiful, the open-air car can get crowded. Everyone will take up all the best spaces by the windows on one side to get the best photos as the train chugs along a crevice or valley you’ll want to gaze at all afternoon. If you can’t find a good photo op behind the crowd, remember to turn around, and look out the other side, the one that nobody is on. A lot of the time, there’s another great view, or, one coming, and you’ll set yourself up with the perfect spot when it does!

Choose A Luxury Experience

Even the “normal” class seats are comfortable and spacious. It’s easy to recline, or sit up and eat at your assigned seat. However, if you prefer luxury, upgrade your ticket to Scenic Class. It’s being updated for 2022 and looks like it will include all new food service. Sign me up!

Café Car

If you take the train all the way from Christchurch to Greymouth, the ride is roughly 5 hours long. You’ll definitely want some food at some point. You can either bring your own, or, visit the cafe car which offers a good selection of breakfast and lunch snacks, meals, and sandwiches, as well as coffee and tea. You won’t go hungry! If you’re worried about falling asleep, this is where to get your coffee to help you avoid that travesty.

Gateway To The West Coast

When you get off the train in Greymouth, you’re at the perfect spot to explore the west coast of New Zealand’s south island. Greymouth has a history as a gold-mining town. Nearby, you can explore the Shantytown recreated to give you context about the history of the area. You can even pan for your own gold searching while you’re there.

Two of my favorite New Zealand towns are close to Greymouth — Hokitika and Punakaiki. Hokitika is known for its Pounamu stone, and a great place to buy some if that’s in your plans. They also have a much lesser known, and rarer stone, called Aotea (not to be confused with Aotearoa, the Māori name for New Zealand). It’s a blend of three minerals found in only one place in the world, the Makaawhio River, south of Hokitika. It’s known as a healing stone, and changes color, depending on the person who wears it. You’ll have to buy one to experience its magic.

Punakaiki is known for its pancake rocks, as well as being a wonderfully relaxing place to spend a day or two. There’s one cafe and one bar, and nothing else but water and hiking. It’s truly the perfect spot to chill out and forget anything that may be stressful in your life. From Punakaiki, you can head up to Nelson and get to Abel Tasman and beyond, all via the Great Coast Road rated one of the top 10 coastal drives in the world. 

Arrive early for your TranzAlpine journey. You’ll want time to check in and bring your luggage to the storage car prior to boarding the train. This train trip is a popular tourist activity, and it allows you the option to get off, and spend time at Arthur’s Pass and Moana, and stay overnight. Lodging is expensive, and there’s not much of it. Book as early as possible, especially for the accommodation, or you’ll be out of luck. 

From Greymouth, you can rent a car or take the Intercity south to Hokitika, or north to Punakaiki. Make sure to research bus schedules in advance since they’re not frequent. Day trips aren’t cheap, especially if you’re traveling with kids. You should research whether it’s less expensive to rent a car or to use the Intercity bus network and tour companies in Greymouth and Hokitika.

Pro Tips: The train operates all year. Remember, if you’re coming from the U.S., seasons in New Zealand are reversed — summer is from December–February, and winter is June–August.

The Hulu series, Nine Perfect Strangers, starring Nicole Kidman as health guru Masha, may channel California, but the creators shot the series in the coastal and hinterland paradise of Byron Bay. 

Masha served guests smoothies laced with hallucinogenic mushrooms and made them forage for food or starve. Not my idea of a relaxing holiday. 

But the scenes of lavish tropical fruit-laden tables, forest bathing, infinity pools, and meditating in a geodesic yoga dome. Yes, please! 

Such delights are standard-issue at Byron Bay’s wellness stays, of which there are many. 

Cheer Up, Slow Down, Chill Out 

Aboriginal elders say the area has been a sacred healing ground for tens of thousands of years. 

Life’s pressure seems to drop the moment you enter town. Helped by the welcome sign “Cheer Up, Slow Down, Chill Out.” Even the weather is restorative — subtropical temperatures are the norm year round.

As the mainland’s most easterly point, sunlight kisses Byron before all else. First light illuminates rolling surf, white sandy beaches, and yoga devotees framed by Pandam palms before moving on like a morning stretch to awaken Byron Bay’s hinterland with its verdant farmland and tropical rainforest. 

Like Southern California, surfers and hippies flocked to Byron Bay for a freer lifestyle in the 1960s and ’70s. Many have since headed for the hills for cheaper land. Others stayed, developing yoga studios, surfing schools, and organic restaurants.

Celebrities came in the 1980s. Actor Paul Hogan and his manager John Cornell invested in Byron with proceeds from Crocodile Dundee. Today there’s a wave of Hollywood pin-up boys — Chris Hemsworth, Matt Damon, and Zac Efron.

Byron is now one of Australia’s most upmarket residential areas, but the alternative ethos remains. Locals continue to block over-development. Byron has no high-rise and plenty of national parks. As for McDonald’s, the placards announced No Mackin Way. Recent protests are about Netflix’s Byron Baes, a show about “hot Instagrammers.” 

1. Soma, The Real Location For Nine Perfect Strangers 

Tranquillum House, the health and wellness resort in Nine Perfect Strangers, exists. But it’s Soma, an architecturally stunning 10-bedroom Airbnb on a 22-acre property in Ewingsdale, outside Byron.

The delights you saw in the series can be yours. Bask in natural light before floor-to-ceiling windows with sweeping hinterland views. Spend lazy afternoons by the infinity pool, mornings working out in the geodesic yoga-dome, evenings discussing life, the universe, and everything else around the communal fire pit.

Or you can book a retreat experience. Gary Gorrow is a Vedic Meditation teacher, health, and mindfulness coach and he focuses on meditation, creativity, consciousness, and the art of living. Retreats include yoga classes, forest walks, and meals prepared by an Ayurvedic chef. Unlike the television series, wellness protocols don’t include digging graves or spiked smoothies. 

Soma is accepting reservations for retreats in 2022, or Gorrow offers RISE’ an online course and antidote to the stress and anxiety induced by what has been a difficult time for many. 

2. The One That You’ll Love: Gaia Retreat 

Treat yourself to love. Gaia Retreat & Spa is co-owned by Olivia Newton-John, singer and star of the 1978 hit musical Grease. Newton-John’s battle with cancer using modern medicine and natural remedies is well known. The ethos of Gaia Retreat & Spa is aligned with the Olivia Newton-John Cancer & Wellness Centre in Melbourne. Gaia is a peaceful, nurturing place nestled among green valleys and undulating hills in Byron Bay’s hinterland. She describes Gaia as “my heaven on earth!” The small boutique retreat has only 24 rooms, suites, and villas with personalized ​​service. A stay in Gaia is gentle. Enjoy organic cuisine with the produce grown onsite, plunging into the saltwater infinity plunge pools, relaxing with remedial massages, yoga, and spa pampering. Packages include mother and daughter time, couple retreats, or options for individuals to revive and renew. As Newton-John says, “turn off your phone, put your feet up, and take some healing time for you — time out without guilt!”

3. You’ll Be In Your Element

Elements of Byron is a $100 million luxury escape accessible by Byron Bay’s town center via the world’s first solar-powered train. The eco-friendly resort was the winner of the 2016 Best Hotel Interior Design. Despite being a large resort, there are no high-rise buildings. The 202 architecturally designed freestanding villas hide among 50 acres of rainforest with direct access to Belongil Beach. Guests enjoy a huge lagoon pool and an adults-only pool voted Australia’s best hotel pool. Relax in private cabanas or hanging day beds. Swim up to the bar for cocktails or organic pressed juices. Horse ride along the beach and into the waves. There’s a ranch onsite. Or explore the resort’s native rainforest and wetlands along 1.2 miles of trails. Wellness packages include guided rainforest walks, spa treatments, and group fitness classes. The program isn’t rigid. If you miss the early morning beachside yoga, so be it. 

4. Stunning Rainforest Luxury — Crystalbrook Byron At Byron 

While I was staying with friends, I dropped into Crystalbrook Byron at Byron. It was a chance to ogle the resort, frequently named in Australia’s top 10 best luxury resorts. I sat sipping a cocktail and looking out at the stunning blue lap pool backgrounded by 45 acres of subtropical rainforest. I envied guests spending their holidays here. Crystalbrook has 92 suites, each with a front and rear verandah, so guests feel immersed in nature. For views over the top of the forest, book a Treetops Suite. Daily exercise can include walking or riding bicycles on the rainforest boardwalks. Eléme Day Spa partnered with Byron Bay’s Cura Co. Lab, makers of eco-conscious therapeutic oils. Enjoy daily yoga sessions, private yoga sessions, or chakra healing. Rooms come with yoga mats and iPads offering guided meditations. The resort is by the ocean, a 15-minute walk from Byron Bay Golf Course and Arakwal National Park, and a short shuttle from town. 

5. Raes On Wategos

Voted one of the world’s top 25 Hotels by Conde Nast Traveler magazine and situated on an absolute beachfront, Raes on Wategos offers tranquillity, privacy, and luxury. The serene white turreted Spanish mission-style hotel has the feel of an opulent Italian palazzo with five luxury suites and two penthouses. According to WHO, the boutique hotel has hosted notables including Elle Macpherson, Tom Cruise, Keith Richards, and Kate Winslet. Wellness at Raes is about total relaxation. Sip a cocktail overlooking the crystal blue water. Chill by the pool and enjoy luxury amid bohemian grandeur with whispers that Salvador Dali designed the pool and gardens. Executive chef Jason Saxby prepares exquisite Mediterranean dishes with the freshest of local ingredients. Enjoy a candlelit dinner being caressed by sea breezes. Relax in Raes Moroccan-inspired spa with its curved walls, mother of pearl tiles, and luxurious treatments using Santa Maria Novella products. Wategos Beach is a great place for dolphin spotting, or grab a board and join them in the surf. 

6. Can’t Beat The Retreats 

You’ve heard the lyrics “I’ve Been To Paradise, But I’ve Never Been To Me.” Byron Bay boasts wellness retreats where a journey back to self is the sole focus. Byron Bay Detox Retreats sits on a beautiful beach by Arakwal National Park and offers fasting, cleansing, yoga, and massage. Byron Wellbeing Yoga and Surf Retreat is geared toward beginner surfers, especially women with mornings at the beach, yoga, massage reflexology, and vegetarian meals. Awaken Meditation Retreats, a private house by the sea, offers a 5-day meditation retreat where you can learn to be present in nature while discovering beautiful Byron. 

7. Local And Sustainable Produce

One of my favorite places is the local farmers market. There’s a great sense of community, with locals coming from all over to sell and shop. The rich volcanic soils make the Byron Bay hinterland extremely fertile, and local produce includes macadamias, pecans, organic coffee, tropical fruit, cheeses, free-range eggs, meat, and olives. The “Make It, Bake It, Grow It” philosophy means Milkadamia (milk made from macadamias), Ginger Necktar, smoked fish, muffins, cakes, and sourdough bread. Stay for breakfast and soak up the harmonious atmosphere. 

Because of the area’s quality produce and healthy ethos, there are many excellent restaurants. Visit The Farm Byron Bay, an 80-acre property and home to a collective of growers, restaurateurs, producers, and educators. Their ethos is “Grow, Feed. Educate. Give Back.” “The Ducks,” as they are fondly known, are mates passionate about nourishing the community with ethical, authentic, quality food and hospitality. The Ducks built Three Blue Ducks, a fabulous restaurant, cafe, and produce store with most food sourced from the farm. 

Another restaurant, FOLK, is committed to plant-based eating, with food so good it made Vogue and Gourmet Traveler. I like Top Shop for amazing coffee, away from the center of town, with a relaxed vibe. But a drink I always return for is served at The Roadhouse. The Tusk is a sphere of organic frozen coconut water to swirl in a glass of Kraken spiced rum. So smooth!

8. Walks And Meanderings 

Byron offers endless hiking in the Hinterland hills along beaches and tranquil trails. A right of passage for tourists is the Cape Byron Walking Track through a national park up to the Byron Bay Lighthouse. My tip is to get someone to drop you at the lighthouse and then walk down. The Google Street View Trekker shows why. 

Killen Falls is the site of the Nine Perfect Strangers cliff jumping scene. The swimming hole has a 33-foot waterfall at one end. Don’t jump as there are rocks! Experience the falls from the viewing platform. If venturing further, be mindful it’s a steep and uneven track to the water. 

I like walking in The Crystal Castle and Shambhala Gardens for a Byron Bay experience. It’s a castle devoted to crystals. Wander through a rainforest, meet a Hindu goddess, and wander a meditative labyrinth based on the one at Chartres Cathedral near Paris, built around A.D. 1,200. Before you set off on the twists and turns, you are expected to pose a question and invite existence to reveal the answer. My question was, “How can I get to live in Byron Bay?”

Look up when Down Under as Australia offers inspiring sky phenomena rarely seen elsewhere. Surf Morning Glory Clouds. Meet the Man in the Moon when he unfurls his rope ladder. And if you see hovering lights in your rearview mirror in the Outback, hit the gas and don’t look back. Here are a few Australian sky experiences on your horizon.

1. Riders On The Cloud 

The Lonely Planet describes Morning Glory Clouds as “the next most spectacular thing to see in the sky after a full solar eclipse.” Tubular clouds roll in across the Gulf of Carpentaria like twisting serpents. The clouds are up to 3,000 feet high and 620 miles long — that’s the length of Britain — and travel at 40 miles per hour. A rarity in other parts of the world, Morning Glory Clouds are predictable in Burketown in Queensland from early September to early November when a band of as many as 10 somersaults into town. 

The clouds aren’t a daily occurrence, but locals look to their beer for guidance. If the fridges of Burketown Pub have frosted over, there’s a good chance a Morning Glory Cloud will roll in. More people have climbed Mt. Everest than witnessed this natural wonder. Extreme hang gliders ride the Morning Glory like surfers riding waves. Tourists stand on terra firma to watch the spectacle or take scenic flights with companies such as Savannah Aviation. Watch the Morning Glory phenomenon here. 

2. Beware The Min Min

Min Min are mysterious Outback lights that follow travelers. The orbs have fuzzy edges, like a swarm of bees, and hover above the ground. Normally white, but occasionally colored, the lights can split in two and go in different directions. Some Aboriginal people believe the lights are the spirits of elders. In folklore, anyone who follows the lights does not return. 

The lights were named Min Min after the first recorded European sighting in 1918 when lights followed a stockman in the shanty settlement of Min Min — a Cobb and Co. changing station. His story involved liquor and seeing lights over the graveyard. There have been too many other sightings to reject his claim as mere drunkenness. Today, Min Min is a ghost town. All that remains is shattered glass and broken dreams evidenced by the eerie graves of lives cut short.

Boulia, the closest town, has a population of 312. Residents may not have a shopping mall, but they attract tourists like flies to a flytrap with their Min Min Encounter. The 45-minute show introduces travelers to the local legends about the Min Min lights. Move through settings of a pub, a homestead, a bush camp, a cemetery, and end up sitting on a simulated night bus ride through the moonlit outback terrain. Along the way, meet characters who claim to have seen the light! The show incorporates animatronic fiber optics and a taste of bush yarning. 

Rational reasons for the Min-Min include mirages, bioluminescent insects, owls or birds, or a distant car light trapped in cold air. But if you see a strange light following you, I wouldn’t wait for it to catch you. 

3. Mirages On The Nullarbor Plain 

Drivers crossing the Nullarbor Plain see mirages. The desert sun heats the sand, which heats the air just above it. The hot air bends light rays and reflects the sky. Nullarbor is Latin for “no trees.” Edward John Eyre, the first European to cross the Nullarbor, described a “hideous anomaly, a blot on the face of nature, the sort of place one gets into bad dreams.” The Eyre Highway is named after him, and I wonder if he shifts uneasily in his grave every time a car passes over his namesake. 

The highway takes travelers from Adelaide to Perth in a journey of about six days with tourist stops. Sights include wild camels and detours to towering cliffs with ocean views. The 1,000- mile journey includes one of the longest sections (91 miles) of straight road in the world. My mother drove this eternity in 1957 before the road had bitumen. I still gasp at her bravery. Today, with a sealed road, crossing the Nullabor is an adventure. But in the heat can come the mirage, a shimmering and enticing body of water in the distance. A cruel trick indeed to hot, thirsty travelers.

Pro Tip: Ensure your vehicle is in excellent condition and you carry plenty of water. The luxury train, the Indian Pacific, also crosses the Nullarbor. 

4. A Staircase To The Moon

Broome in Western Australia is home to the Staircase to the Moon, an optical illusion occurring on nights when the full moon rises over the exposed tidal flats of Roebuck Bay. Moonlight bathes the mudflats so they appear like glowing bars. My son described it as “the Man in the Moon letting down a rope ladder so we can climb up the rungs to meet him.” Crowds watch from the Mangrove Hotel’s terrace but soon hush, leaving only the sound of the didgeridoo player registering each new rung. 

Pro Tip: I prefer viewing the illusion from the terraced lawns where a local market coincides with the astronomical event. Grab a bowl of laksa and settle in for a private audience with the Man in the Moon.

5. A New Sky To Explore 

If you have only stargazed in the Northern Hemisphere, then you know only half the sky. Gaze at a new map of the heavens above Australia. 

Notable formations are visible, such as Alpha Centauri and Proxima Centauri, Omega Centauri (the biggest star cluster visible in the sky), the Coalsack Nebula, and two galaxies, the large and small Magellanic Clouds. Australia faces the Milky Way, so stargazers can see 100 times more stars than in the Northern Hemisphere.

The clearest constellation is the Southern Cross — or Crux to astronomers — whose stars are on our national flag. The Southern Cross has a strong cultural significance to Australians. On November 29th, 1854, miners battled against English soldiers at the Eureka Stockade. Australia’s flag was then the Union Jack, but the men hoisted a homemade flag and swore: “by the Southern Cross to stand truly by each other, and fight to defend our rights and liberties.” Like America’s Boston Tea Party, this battle represented a step toward liberty and democratic government.

Pro Tip: The battle was over in 30 minutes and claimed 38 lives. The flag, which the English shot to tatters, is on display at the Eureka Centre in Ballarat.

6. Is It A Bird? Is It A Plane? No, It’s An Emu. 

Aboriginal people were the world’s first astronomers — using the stars as navigational tools and guides to the seasons. Astronomy tours in Australia point out the Southern Cross, but Aboriginal astronomy tours offer a fascinating perspective that defies traditional conventions of stargazing. Something indigenous guides show is the emu in the sky, a constellation composed not of stars but the dark patches between them. 

The emu’s head is the dark between the stars in the Southern Cross. Follow your eyes down to make out the emu’s neck, body, and legs forming between the Milky Way’s iconic dust lanes. With our western concept of searching hard for stars, the emu is at first hard to make out, but the sky takes on a new vision and purpose once you do. Here’s an illustration. 

Indigenous stargazing tours include Night Sky Astronomy in Alice Springs, the Cosmos Centre in Charleville, Night Sky Secrets in Cairns, Ayers Rock Resort, and Wula Gura Nyinda Eco Cultural Adventures in beautiful Shark Bay.

7. Southern Hemisphere’s First Dark Sky Park

Like Joshua Tree and Jasper (Canada) national parks, Warrumbungle National Park is a designated dark sky park by the International Dark-Sky Association. Warrumbungle was the first dark sky preserve in the Southern Hemisphere and is a 6-hour drive northeast of Sydney. 

The high altitude and low humidity, and darkness make for phenomenal stargazing. Visit Siding Spring Observatory, Australia’s largest optical astronomy research facility and home to the Anglo-Australian Telescope, the largest optical telescope in Australia. The four-story-high telescope can even show quasars (gas revolving around a supermassive black hole) up to 12 billion light years away.

By day, the Siding Spring Exploratory hosts a free astronomy exhibition. See the telescope, read about its history, and learn of its many discoveries. There’s a gift shop, cafe, and a lookout over the iconic Warrumbungle National Park. As a working research facility, the observatory isn’t open to the public at night but offers fascinating tours and activities. On the World’s Largest Virtual Solar System Drive hurtle your car toward three-dimensional planets on billboards scaled in size and distance just as in outer space — only 38 million times smaller!

Pro Tip: Warrumbungle National Park offers campsites under the starriest of skies. 

Or stay at Skywatch Observatory, where you can also use a Newtonian telescope. 

8. NASA Steps Out Down Under 

Three stations received the signals for the 1969 moon landing: Goldstone in California, Honeysuckle Creek (Canberra), and Parkes radio telescope (NSW.) Australian telescopes were the first to receive clear images, including Neil Armstrong’s epic one “small step for man, one giant leap for mankind.”

Find out more about Australia’s role in NASA’s Deep Space Network at Canberra Space Centre, one of three in the world that communicates with current space missions via one of the largest communications dishes in the Southern Hemisphere.

Check out the latest images from the solar system, see spacecraft models, learn what astronauts eat at the International Space Station, and see a piece of moon rock 3.8 billion years old. Free entry and there is a cafe and picnic grounds. 

In central New South Wales, visit the Parkes Radio Telescope fondly known as “The Dish.” Its large surface makes the telescope highly sensitive in finding pulsars and rapidly spinning neutron stars. The Parkes telescope has found half of more than the 2,000 known pulsars. 

The Dish is best known for relaying live TV pictures of Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin’s first footsteps on the Moon. The sensitive equipment also picked up the astronaut’s heart rates through their spacesuits. Aldrin’s heart was pounding at 81 beats per minute, but Armstrong’s heart was racing at 112 beats per minute as he took that first big step. 

Fans of the movie The Dish also flock to Parkes. This Australian classic is a humorous, irrelevant, and mostly true story of Australia’s role in the Apollo 11 moon mission, while released in 2000, holds a 96 percent rating on Rotten Tomatoes. The movie shows how Aussies are happy to laugh at themselves. Min Min lights anyone?

Australia’s geographical isolation has resulted in cute animals found nowhere else in the world. They can be shy and elusive in their natural environments, so it’s worth knowing about wildlife experiences where personal interactions are guaranteed. 

1. A Selfie With A Quokka 

The quokka may be the cutest animal you’ve never heard of. Dubbed the “happiest animal on earth” because of their cheeky smiles and willingness to join you in a selfie, the quokka is a rabbit-sized distant relative of the kangaroo that also carries their joeys in their pouches. Meet quokkas on Rottnest Island, a 30-minute ferry trip from Perth in Western Australia. The island is famous for its white sandy beaches, turquoise water, and cute quokkas. 

Quokkas are everywhere on “Rotto” — especially around the settlement where the ferry docks. Take the free walking tour called Meet the Quokkas. The cute little critters are naturally inquisitive. Get down to their level and wait for them to come to you. Both Chris Hemsworth and Margot Robbie have posted quokka selfies, but these creatures will happily hop into anyone’s shot.

Rottnest Island is car-free, and most people hire a bike, although there is a shuttle. Late afternoon is the best time to see quokkas when they are on the road in higher numbers. 

Please don’t touch or feed them. Human food doesn’t agree with quokkas. Here as elsewhere in Australia, there are stringent guidelines so that wildlife encounters are rewarding — for both you and our cute critters.

2. Cuddle A Koala 

Koalas look as cute as Teddy bears, but they are not bears. Instead, they are marsupials who carry their young in a pouch. Only Queensland, South Australia, and Western Australia allow tourists to hold a koala. Even then, interactions are restricted. In Queensland, koalas are held 30 minutes a day for no more than three consecutive days in a row. Koalas spend their days snacking on eucalyptus leaves or snoozing. They sleep up to 20 hours a day, so they may fall asleep in your arms! 

Cradle a koala at Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary outside Brisbane or Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary on the Gold Coast. Similar cradling experiences are offered in Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park and Cleland Wildlife Park in South Australia. In other states, only keepers handle koalas. But they are placed on low tree forks so visitors can easily see them. Have your photograph taken with a koala at Featherdale Wildlife Park near the Blue Mountains, Ballarat Wildlife Park in Victoria, or breakfast with the koalas at WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo. At Koala Conservation Reserve on Phillip Island, come face-to-face with koalas in their natural habitat along the treetop boardwalks.

 Free places to see koalas in the wild include Kennett River, on the Great Ocean Road, and Raymond Island, in Gippsland. 

3. Watch Fairy Penguins Parade

Phillip Island, a 90-minute drive from Melbourne, is home to the world-famous Penguin Parade. What started in the 1920s with a few people gathering to watch penguins has become one of Australia’s most popular tourist attractions. A $58.2 million dollar visitor’s center now surrounds this natural phenomenon. Phillip Island has a population of some 32,000 little penguins. The parents leave their chicks in their burrows by day and head out to the ocean to hunt fish. They only partially digest their food, so they can regurgitate the fish into the chicks’ mouths when they return at dusk. 

Onlookers have a sense of expectancy as the penguins surf the waves into shore. When they have safety in numbers, they begin a cute waddle up the beach to their burrows. Thousands of tourists watch on elevated timber boardwalks, tiered seating, or underground viewing platforms — the little penguins march on regardless of the excitement their cuteness creates. For a more up-close-and-personal experience, tickets are available for a small group, ranger-guided tour where you can walk among penguins on a secluded beach. Phillip Island is also worth visiting for its multitude of wildlife, the wild coastline, beaches, and dramatic rock formations. See a live stream of the Penguin Parade on YouTube. 

Pro Tip: The movie Oddball was based on a true story. Visit Warrnambool, the setting in a seaside town in Victoria. Foxes decimated the fairy penguins, and a local farmer suggested bringing in Maremma dogs to patrol their burrows. The island is off-limits, but there is a Meet the Marammas experience at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village. 

4. Play With A Dingo 

The dingo is a threatened species, and conservation groups believe they deserve to be protected. Wild dingoes have a natural fear of people and generally shy away. But a couple of high-profile attacks have gripped the media. Because of their reputation, many people have an interest in knowing more about these wolf-like creatures. Various wildlife centers offer experiences where you can have your questions answered about the infamous dingo and interact with them in ways you could never do in the wild. 

At Symbio Wildlife Park, south of Sydney, go behind the scenes and play with the pups. Alice Springs Desert Park and Moonlit Sanctuary, near Melbourne, have experiences where you can walk with dingoes on leashes accompanied by one of their keepers. For wild sightings, head to the World Heritage-listed Fraser Island in Queensland, home to the purest dingo population in Australia. There are strict rules not to hike alone on the island and never to feed them—precautions people also take overseas in bear country. 

5. Pop In On A Tasmanian Devil 

The Tasmanian devil is a feisty little fellow and an inspiration for Taz, one of the Looney Tunes characters. Now only found in Tasmania, the creature plays an important part in the ecosystem by helping to control introduced animals such as feral cats and foxes. Watching one of their feeding sessions is unforgettable as they latch onto proffered meat with such tenacity. And their growl is like something out of The Exorcist. Head to Devils@Cradle in Cradle Mountain-ise St Clair National Park for all kinds of devilish experiences. Closer to Hobart is the Tasmanian Devil Unzoo, offering a 4WD Devil Tracker Tours and a plastic bubble experience where you pop your head up into their world. 

6. Cradle A Joey 

When it comes to Australia‘s wildlife, the first animals to spring to mind are our kangaroos. Australia is home to an estimated 50 million kangaroos, so they outnumber people two to one. You are bound to see them in the wild, either grazing in a paddock, bounding in the bush, or lazing on a grassy golf course. If you’d like to pat or hand-feed a kangaroo, visit one of our many sanctuaries. Pop into Australia Zoo of Steve Irwin fame on the Sunshine Coast to stroll the grasslands where kangaroos roam free. A similar experience exists in Healesville Sanctuary near Melbourne. For an outback encounter, try The Kangaroo Sanctuary’s afternoon tours in Alice Springs. 

Pro Tip: To protect wildlife, be wary when driving in rural areas at dusk when kangaroos can unexpectedly bound in front of you. Kangaroos can also cause serious accidents if they crash through a front windscreen. 

7. Wander With Wombats 

Wombats look like fluffy little boulders and live in cooler areas in southeastern Australia. Wander among them on Maria Island, a short ferry ride from Hobart, Tasmania. You don’t have to walk far before you see them grazing. Stay still and they likely will come to you. 

Weighing up to 66 pounds, they appear plodding but can reach speeds of 25 miles per hour if running from dogs or Tasmanian devils. Their tactic is to delve headfirst into their burrows, leaving their backside exposed to the confounded predator while they kick them away with their strong hind paws. Wombats poop in cubes. If they were into building, they could construct little pyramids. 

Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley near Sydney is a luxury resort and another great place to see them. Take a wombat safari or spot them from horseback, 4WD, or when out mountain biking. Then 26-year-old Charles Darwin visited Australia in early 1836 on his round-the-world voyage in the HMS Beagle to study unusual species. Guests can visit the historic homestead on the property where he was a guest. Many wildlife parks offer opportunities to hold wombats, such as Ballarat Wildlife Park. I’ve held one in Tasmania, and it’s like cradling a baby. A big fur baby! 

8. Feed Wild Dolphins 

There are numerous places to swim with wild dolphins in Australia. But there are also places where wild dolphins reliably swim up to meet you. Monkey Mia is a famous stop on a road trip along Western Australia’s magnificent Coral Coast. The Department of Parks and Wildlife established Monkey Mia as a marine reserve in 1990 to help protect dolphins while allowing selected visitors to feed them. Today, it is one of the best and most reliable places in the world for dolphin interactions. Dolphins only receive 10 percent of their daily food requirement — to ensure they continue to hunt and remain wild. There is a small entry fee to the reserve, but the dolphin interaction is free. 

Tangalooma Island is advertised as “conveniently remote” as the island is only a short ferry ride from Brisbane. Watch or even experience hand-feeding the wild bottlenose dolphins that swim in at sunset. Dolphin feeding is included in Tangalooma Island Resort stays or in the day cruises from Brisbane.

9. Encounter A Echidna 

Echidnas have a beak, a long tongue like an anteater, hedgehog-like spines, a pouch like a kangaroo, and lay eggs. This strange mix is why echidnas are named after “Echidna,” a creature from Greek mythology who was half-woman and half-snake. Most Australian zoos and wildlife parks offer encounters with these spiky little creatures. They will capture your heart as they come in for a cuddle — they might even sit on your lap. Enjoy echidna encounters at Healesville Sanctuary in the Yarra Valley, Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park, and Taronga Zoo Sydney.

10. Swim With Sea Lions 

Sea lions are the “puppy dogs of the sea.” Swim with these playful creatures in Port Lincoln, South Australia, where they’ll entertain you with somersaults and backflips and expect you, their newfound playmate, to do the same. Calypso Star Charters takes you out by boat before you dive into the clear waters. You can also have amazing interactive seal experiences in Narooma, a small town in New South Wales on the far south coast. Book a tour with Montague Island Tours or Island Charters Narooma.

I took a list of must-try food experiences to England: high tea at Harrods, fish and chips at Rick Stein’s Cornwall, a London gastropub. I remember the ambiance of these places but not the food.

The only unforgettable food experience happened by accident. After a day of sightseeing, the kids were tired, so I ducked into a corner takeaway and returned with curry and chips. We ate picnic-style on the floor of our London bed and breakfast. Dunking chips into curry is a British thing and a novel combination we found charming. 

When tourists come to Australia, they arm themselves with lists of must-try celebrity chef restaurants, famous wineries, and cellar doors. But this story is about the more common but unique food experiences, the Australian equivalents to curry and chips, you might miss out on if you only stick to your list. 

1. An Aussie Pie

As American as apple pie! But Australia’s hero is savory — flaky pastry brimming with a thick beef stew served with a dollop of “tomato sauce” (ketchup). Pies are part of our football culture in the same way hot dogs and baseball go hand-in-glove in the U.S. 

Adelaide overturns the meat pie in a dish called “the floater:” an upside down pie floating in a thick pea soup. This pie tastes much better than it sounds. Try one at Café De Vili’s or on an Adelaide food tour. Some states bake Ned Kelly pies where the baker takes the pasty lid off and adds cheddar cheese, bacon, and cracks in an egg. Tasmanian bakers make scallop pies; puff pastry shells filled with whole scallops cooked in a rich curry sauce. In West Australia’s Kimberley, the pie might be a croc (crocodile) or barra (barramundi).

Pro Tip: In 2018, Malcolm Turnbull was photographed eating his pie using a knife and fork. His Instagram post divided the nation. Most Aussies eat a pie out of a paper bag. 

2. Dimmies

Dim sim (known as dimmies) are deep-fried or steamed dumplings filled with pork, cabbage, and flavorings. Unlike the dainty Chinese version, the Australian dim sim is 3–4 times larger and has a doughier skin. The item now in fish and chip shops is thought to have originated with William Chen Wing Young for his restaurant Wing Lee in the mid-1940s. Another adaptation comes from a tiny stall in Melbourne’s South Melbourne Market where the Cheng family has been serving dim sims to long queues for the last 60 years. Their version is as big as a fist and laced with spices and pepper. Tourists can try South Melbourne dim sims at the Emporium and Queen Victoria Market in central Melbourne.

Pro Tip: Many Australians eat dim sims fried, but steamed is healthier. Eat them from a paper bag with a splash of soya sauce.

3. A Cafe Brunch

Despite what you have read so far, Australians are into clean eating. A Melbourne brunch at a trendy inner-city cafe is an experience not to be missed. Expect terms like GF, vegan, and superfoods stamped on every menu. Weekend brunches are social occasions with families or groups of house-sharing millennials. The standing joke is that millennials can’t afford to buy their own homes because they spend their deposit on smashed avo (avocado) on toast. Every cafe has its upmarket version. It could be avocado mixed with cashew feta, mint, and chili and served on organic sourdough or accompanied by a poached egg, spiced tomato salsa, pomegranates, fluffy tri-colored quinoa, and a wedge of burnt lime. Healthy sides are popular, such as kale, silverbeet, spinach, slow-roasted king oyster, or shitake mushrooms. Whichever way they stack your plate, your meal will be a work of art. 

4. Australian Coffee

I can feel myself getting into hot water here. But Australian coffee culture is just so damn good. Australians never took to Starbucks, and most stores closed here. As Oliver Strand wrote in the New York Times,  “Those who nerd out on coffee know that Australia — Melbourne in particular — has a dynamic and professional coffee scene.” Melburnians prefer 100 percent arabica, and many cafes roast their own beans. Baristas only look up from creating latte art long enough to make eye contact with a customer when their creation is delivered to their table. In any Australian city, you’ll find lists of recommended coffee experiences. Or ask a local!

Pro Tip: Many Australians are so nerdy about the coffee they travel with the Beanhunter app, which ranks coffee worldwide. 

5. The Tim Tam Slam 

You say cookie, we use the English term biscuit. A Tim Tam is two malted chocolate biscuits sandwiched together by chocolate icing and then dipped in more chocolate. To do the Tim Tam slam, nibble off diagonally opposite corners, then use the biscuit as a straw to suck up a hot drink. When the warm liquid reaches your lips, you have three seconds to slam the biscuit into your mouth before it disintegrates. A party in your mouth of pure molten chocolate bliss. Here are instructions for the Tim Tam Slam. 

Pro Tip: Packets of Arnott’s Tim Tams are available at our supermarkets for a couple of dollars and make a great gift. 

6. Iconic Aussie Cakes 

A vanilla slice is when bakers set creamy yellow custard between two layers of flaky pastry and top it with a shiny fondant icing. Victorians prefer vanilla icing, passionfruit in New South Wales, and Queenslanders lean towards pink. The last winner of the Great Australian Vanilla Slice Triumph was Bridgewater Bakehouse. Yes, we make it a competition. 

Lamingtons are squares of sponge cake coated in syrupy chocolate. A final coating of coconut makes them easier to hold in hot weather. As a child, I watched my aunt bake them. She was a member of the CWA (the Country Women’s Society ) who pride themselves on their cooking. Because she needed an even dozen for a cake stall, she refused to let me have one. As soon as I was old enough, I bought one at a bakery. Lamington drives are common school fundraisers. Here’s the recipe. 

During WWI, women baked oat and golden syrup biscuits to raise money for the war effort. They became known as ANZAC biscuits. These chewy, buttery delights are an Australian icon and easy to bake.

Australia and New Zealand squabble over who invented the pavlova. The airy light dessert was named in honor of the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, who toured both countries in the 1920s. The base is a large meringue loaded with fresh whipped cream and piled high with fruit. Here’s a recipe. A Christmas pavlova has red berries and green kiwi fruit. Try a “pav” at iconic places like Melbourne’s Hopetoun Tea Rooms.

7. Bush Tucker

Bush tucker is native fauna/flora used for culinary purposes and sustained Indigenous Australians for an estimated 60,000 years. My first bush tucker experience was in Alice Springs 20 years ago. Meats such as crocodile, emu, and kangaroo were then a novelty. Born into the generation that grew up watching Skippy, I struggled with the concept. Today kangaroo meat is sold in supermarkets, and specialist butchers sell emu sausages and crocodile steaks. These meats are a healthier and leaner alternative than the mutton and beef I grew up eating. The interest in indigenous food is shifting to foraged or harvested foods such as Anise Myrtle, Bush Tomato, Davidson Plum, Finger Lime (the caviar-textured seeds explode in your mouth), Kakadu Plum, Lemon Aspen, Lemon Myrtle. Mountain Pepper, Muntries, Quandong, Riberry, and Wattleseed. When seeking to try these items, support food businesses where the money goes back into indigenous communities. Here’s a good list. 

Pro Tip: For bush tucker fare, try Kawul in NSW, Karkalla in Byron Bay, Kooljaman at Cape Leveque, or Tali Wiru at Uluru. 

8. Damper 

Damper is bushman’s bread baked in the coals of a campfire using only flour, water, and salt. Today, along with billy tea, it’s often part of a tourist experience. My last damper was at Smithys, Longreach, Outback Queensland, and it came hot from the fire smothered in golden syrup. Modern damper is increasingly married with bush tucker. On the Ghan, I’ve eaten it with pepperberry butter and Davidson plum chili preserves. Melbourne’s Attica damper comes with wattle seed and accompaniments of churned butter, macadamia cream, and saltbush.

9. Seafood 

85 percent of Australia’s population lives within 31 miles of the coast. Seafood names differ from the U.S. When Paul Hogan said, “throw a shrimp on the barbie,” for U.S. audiences, Australians scratched their heads. In Australia, the word shrimp means something undersized. Shrimp might be used in a sandwich or hidden in a seafood cocktail. Everything bigger is called a “prawn” and described by species: e.g., king prawns, tiger prawns, banana prawns, etc. They are huge and worth throwing on the barbie. Australia’s prized fish is barramundi which is mild, sweet, and succulent. Australia has three of the top 10 most popular oysters: Sydney rock oysters, Tasmanian oysters, and Coffin Bay oysters. Don waders and eat shucked oysters straight from the sea. We have numerous upmarket seafood restaurants, but seafood in Australia doesn’t have to come “posh-plated” — there’s joy in a “bucket” of prawns at a local surf club or sharing a fish and chips picnic on a sunset beach.

Pro Tip: Visit Sydney Fish Markets to taste most Australian seafood under one roof. 

10. A Burger With The Lot 

We would never claim the burger, but the “burger with the lot” we like to consider ours. This toppling stack has a burger patty, fried egg, bacon, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onions, pineapple, and beetroot, making it a challenge to get your mouth around. Beetroot is the item that puzzles tourists. But it’s cold and sweet and marries well with the hot meat. McDonald’s sometimes offers a “McOz” with beetroot as a promotional item. 

11. Vegemite On Toast

Vegemite is an Australian spread made from brewers’ yeast extract. It’s the same color as chocolate, but don’t dip your spoon in, or your tastebuds will reel. Vegemite is salty and best eaten smeared finely on hot buttery toast. Or buy a Vegemite scroll from a bakery. Australia is such a multicultural society that most of us are far more likely to have eaten a kebab, a pad thai, a bowl of Vietnamese Pho, or a McDonald’s burger in the last week than to have reached for our jar of Vegemite. But as Vegemite is forever associated with Australia, we’ll happily make you a Vegemite sandwich.